End of cycle~confused

You should be fine adding them all at the same time--I personally would go the other waay if I weren't introducing them at the same time, to allow the shyer fish time to get comfortable before adding an aggressor. The otos would probably be a few months down the road after adding plants.

Plants can be added before the fish, but you'll need to keep dosing ammonia if there are too many days between--not the best idea. I'd plan on no more than 2-3 days between adding plants and getting the fish in there.

For the temp spikes--not ideal. See if you can add a fan that will blow across the water to increase evaporative cooling. 2-3 degress likely won't be a problem now, but if the tank temp increases during the summer, it could cause a problem, especially if you start pressurized CO2 down the line ( think on this one, might not be a problem).

temp fluctuation won't be a problem since it's gradual, drastic changes are where the problems arise with some fish. Add your plants before you add the fish, even if it's just a few minutes before. rummaging through the tank adding plants later only causes stress from this huge monster (your arm) in their home. I wouldn't add all the fish at once because of the bio-load shock. You may still have a small ammonia spike depending on how much of a bacteria colony you've established. I personally would rather add the harlequins first. The ottos won't have a whole lot to eat at first except maybe on the plants depending on where they came from. Dwarf gourami's can be aggressive or rather territorial but usually a single is better than a pair. It really depends on the exact species of dwarf and the individuals. Males are usually always more aggressive than females. I would put the rasboras in first, wait about a week or maybe two and then add the otto's if you've got the live plants in. another week and add the gourami. This way the otto's won't look like lunch to the gourami. Once they're all in the tank I can't imagine having any problems as long as there are hiding places. On another note, why do you have 50 watts of light? That's enough to do hard corals in a saltwater tank, I'm not sure plants will even survive under that much light and you're bound to have TONS of algae problems and you'd definitely need co2. might be something to check on, KYLe

the light setup you have is for a saltwater tank. the blue actinic light is meant for corals. the blue won't look too well in a freshwater tank, at least in my opinion. I tried my actinic bulb in my planted tank when I first bought the unit and it looked really bad. I don't know what affects the actinic would have on plants, never researched it. Most planted tank light setups are around 2-3 watts per gallon, at least what I've seen. Saltwater reef tanks usually have between 3-4 watts, 5 is what you have and would supply the hardest, most light demanding corals and clams with enough light. I don't know if it's possible to over-light plants, that's why I'd go talk to some plant experts at the websites given on your other post. One thing I'm sure of is that if you don't compensate fertilizers and co2, they will die. Plants need an equilibrium of light, nutrients and co2. If one goes up, the others must match or there'll be problems. Algae growth is also a problem if you don't have the right levels and with that much light, no co2 and no substrate for the plants (depending on the plants you get) you're bound to have tons of algae and dead plants eventually. My opinions anyway. kyle