Oscars… probably the cichlid that gets the most attention. As little ones, they inspire many oo’s and awes at the local fish store with their wiggly bodies and big puppy-dog eyes. The adults are quick attention getters, and everyone who visits a home with an adult oscar is fascinated. They are one of the most intelligent fish in the hobby, with a great personality to boot. However, many unfortunate Oscars end up in the wrong home… like many of their furry cousins (puppies).
So, how exactly is an oscar properly cared for? Who should and who should not have an oscar?
The Oscar Fish (Astronotus ocellatus)
The oscar quickly grows to be a large, messy cichlid, who is always on the look out for food (whether it needs it or not). They are typically carnivores which will feed on smaller fish, insects, crustaceans, and other small animals in their natural habitat. They should be fed a large, tropical fish pellet geared towards carnivorous fish; I prefer the Hikari Cichlid line for any large cichlids I have owned, but there are plenty of other options out there. They can also be given crickets, small fish (such as guppies), worms, and many other live food to vary their diet. Use caution when feeding fish sold in the fish shops, as these usually contain little nutritional value and often carry diseases.
Oscars are native to the tropical Amazon region in South America, and therefore should be given temperatures typically found in their locality. Temperatures should range between 75F-80F, so a heater will be needed in most situations. However, they seem to have little prefrence in pH or hardness.
The next part is where you typically see problems in the care of Oscars. Oscars are typically bought small… BUT, grow to a large size in a very short time. And by large, I mean usually around 13’’, and need heavy filtration with a big tank to keep their water clean and to keep them happy. Dimensionally wise, Oscars should be give at least a 4’ tank that is at least 18’’ wide. Often, 55g tanks are recommended for Oscars, and, while their volume is acceptable, their dimensions are not. A standard 55g tank is 12’’ wide, shorter than the length most Oscars attain, so these fish would not have much in the way of turn around space. Therefore, they would not be in comfortable conditions; in other words, not thriving. Also, Oscars need regular water changes, at least 50% once a week, although water quality should be monitored so that nitrates do not rise much above 20ppm. If nitrate levels become higher, additional water changes are in order.
Food:
Because it is suspected that nutrition deficiencies in Oscars (as well as many other fish) may lead to the dreaded disease, Hole in the Head (HITH), a varied diet is invaluable. A high quality stable, preferable a pellet, should be used. This diet should be supplemented with things like bloodworms and various other live/frozen/freezedried foods. Care should be taken with feeder fish. They should be quarantined at least 3 weeks prior to feeding if bought from the LFS, but a better option may be breeding your own. Fish like guppies can easily be raised for use as the occasional feeder in a 20g tank. Either way, the feeders should be fed a quality diet as well so that they have nutritional value.
Water:
It is also suspected that water quality contributes to HITH. Nitrates should be kept low in a tank with Oscars (or any other fish for that matter), so as to provided a healthy environment. Ammonia and Nitrite values should always read 0ppm, while nitrate should read no higher than 25ppm, preferable less than 20ppm. Oscars are very messy fish, so may require more water changes than the 20% weekly that many tanks get in order too keep nitrates within acceptable levels.
Tank mates:
Oscars are large, but not usually aggressive fish. Tank mates should be chosen with care. Remember, any thing that can fit in an Oscar’s mouth will probably end up there within a short period of time. Tank mates should also not be aggressive unless the particular oscar can hold his own (which are on rare occasions, IME). The tank must also be large enough to withstand the bioload placed on it by the added mates. For instance, in a 75g you may be able to have an armored catfish provided you keep up your maintenance and it does not grow larger than 12-13’’.
If you can’t provide these things for any oscar, you may want to consider other species that are more suited to your tank(s).
If anybody has anything else to add, please do![Smile :) :)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
So, how exactly is an oscar properly cared for? Who should and who should not have an oscar?
The Oscar Fish (Astronotus ocellatus)
The oscar quickly grows to be a large, messy cichlid, who is always on the look out for food (whether it needs it or not). They are typically carnivores which will feed on smaller fish, insects, crustaceans, and other small animals in their natural habitat. They should be fed a large, tropical fish pellet geared towards carnivorous fish; I prefer the Hikari Cichlid line for any large cichlids I have owned, but there are plenty of other options out there. They can also be given crickets, small fish (such as guppies), worms, and many other live food to vary their diet. Use caution when feeding fish sold in the fish shops, as these usually contain little nutritional value and often carry diseases.
Oscars are native to the tropical Amazon region in South America, and therefore should be given temperatures typically found in their locality. Temperatures should range between 75F-80F, so a heater will be needed in most situations. However, they seem to have little prefrence in pH or hardness.
The next part is where you typically see problems in the care of Oscars. Oscars are typically bought small… BUT, grow to a large size in a very short time. And by large, I mean usually around 13’’, and need heavy filtration with a big tank to keep their water clean and to keep them happy. Dimensionally wise, Oscars should be give at least a 4’ tank that is at least 18’’ wide. Often, 55g tanks are recommended for Oscars, and, while their volume is acceptable, their dimensions are not. A standard 55g tank is 12’’ wide, shorter than the length most Oscars attain, so these fish would not have much in the way of turn around space. Therefore, they would not be in comfortable conditions; in other words, not thriving. Also, Oscars need regular water changes, at least 50% once a week, although water quality should be monitored so that nitrates do not rise much above 20ppm. If nitrate levels become higher, additional water changes are in order.
Food:
Because it is suspected that nutrition deficiencies in Oscars (as well as many other fish) may lead to the dreaded disease, Hole in the Head (HITH), a varied diet is invaluable. A high quality stable, preferable a pellet, should be used. This diet should be supplemented with things like bloodworms and various other live/frozen/freezedried foods. Care should be taken with feeder fish. They should be quarantined at least 3 weeks prior to feeding if bought from the LFS, but a better option may be breeding your own. Fish like guppies can easily be raised for use as the occasional feeder in a 20g tank. Either way, the feeders should be fed a quality diet as well so that they have nutritional value.
Water:
It is also suspected that water quality contributes to HITH. Nitrates should be kept low in a tank with Oscars (or any other fish for that matter), so as to provided a healthy environment. Ammonia and Nitrite values should always read 0ppm, while nitrate should read no higher than 25ppm, preferable less than 20ppm. Oscars are very messy fish, so may require more water changes than the 20% weekly that many tanks get in order too keep nitrates within acceptable levels.
Tank mates:
Oscars are large, but not usually aggressive fish. Tank mates should be chosen with care. Remember, any thing that can fit in an Oscar’s mouth will probably end up there within a short period of time. Tank mates should also not be aggressive unless the particular oscar can hold his own (which are on rare occasions, IME). The tank must also be large enough to withstand the bioload placed on it by the added mates. For instance, in a 75g you may be able to have an armored catfish provided you keep up your maintenance and it does not grow larger than 12-13’’.
If you can’t provide these things for any oscar, you may want to consider other species that are more suited to your tank(s).
If anybody has anything else to add, please do