Why would my CORALINE ALGAE...die?

  • Get the NEW AquariaCentral iOS app --> http://itunes.apple.com/app/id1227181058 // Android version will be out soon!

christen51

Registered Member
Nov 5, 2006
4
0
0
Tacoma, WA
I'm looking for someone's educated opinion or experience, as to why my CORALINE ALGAE is dying off, from pink to white in the last 6 days.

My 50 gallon FOWLR is 11 months old. At 5 months I had pink coraline starting to grow all over the live rock, the glass, the tubes, the pumps, etc. and it grew until the back glass is/was mostly pink. It started to change color just 2 days after the recent water change. I didn't think much of it, as it began so slowly. But now it's heartbreak since it was such a long time in development.

Water changes: 30% every 3-4 weeks. Salt water always came from my LFS. But because they have now decreased the pH to 7.5 and SG to 1.017, and the temperature to 68º, I decided to try another store since I spent more time adjusting the new water parameters to match my numbers, (adding buffer, adding salt and warming the water).

Last week, I changed my source of salt water, purchased from a well established LFS, but farther from my location. They sold me a product called PURIFIED SEAWATER. Has anybody heard of this water. I bought 15 gallons for the water change.
Now, you should also know that I finally started protein skimming 10 days ago, (yippee). I now have the RemoraPro w/Mag3. It's producing something that looks like weak tea, but yuckier.

Is it the new seawater, or the skimming, or the combination?
Other questions: Is it actually dying? and Will it return?
Thanks in advance...

btw, next year I will upgrade to reef lighting, and sump/fuge and I will lose the Penguin and Rena filters. I will build a DIY hood and stand to accommodate the Sump and lights.

pH= 8.3 SG= 1.022 Temp= 79º
38 lbs LiveRock
Aragonite substrate 2"
Penguin 350 hob filter
Rena XP3 canister filter
2 Hagen power heads
Perfecto Hood with 40 watt tube
Coral Beauty, 6 Line Wrasse, FireFish and ClownFish
Cleaner Shrimp, Sand Sifting Star & some Hermits and Snails
 

Mahlhavoc

AC Members
Nov 1, 2005
193
0
0
Might want to check your Calcium level and Alk. and post your results. I have never heard of this water you purchased so I cannot comment.
 

Max

It's me
Jan 26, 2004
2,567
1
0
Mars
Visit site
Your low s.g. might also have caused some major issues. It will probably have to restablish it's self. HtH and you will probably be a lot better off if you buy r.o. water or a ro system and your own salt mix. That way you don't have to worry as much. Never heard of the product you are using either.
hth
Max
 

rohnds

AC Members
Jun 19, 2004
274
0
0
56
Austin, TX (Born NYC)
www.geocities.com
I haven't heard of PURIFIED SEAWATER, but that doesn't mean that it is nt a good product.
But if this is the only change (water) since you started losing the coralline algae, I suspect the water. It could be anything from not enought Ca, Mg or Alk or the any of the other essential elements.
The easiest and the most cost effective way is to purchase RO water and add salt. Do this and you coralline algae will bloom again.
Have you changes anything else? Lights, stop dosing Ca or anything else?

Rohn
 

christen51

Registered Member
Nov 5, 2006
4
0
0
Tacoma, WA
Thank you for your comments. I did find an explanation.
I spent most of the day searching for answers about this; since I was on the verge of freaking out and wondering when my other sensitive livestock was to keel over.
The bleaching is occurring on the top half of the tank, and it appeared to be working it's way down, but only to where it was left high and dry during the water change. That is where the answer lays.
This was totally an operator error. Here's what happened.

Every other month during a water change I spend time scraping the glass front and ends for viewing. This was also the time for vacuuming the sand in the viewing areas. So, I took the water level down lower than necessary to get in there with my scraper. I save the clear mature water, carefully, siphoned off from the beginning of the operation, to be reintroduced at time of refilling. Then the dirtiest vacuumed water gets tossed out. About 15 gallons.
I took way too long, probably an hour.

In the future I must be more aware of the time element that the Coraline is out of the water @ Low Tide. And Live Rock and Feather Dusters, too!

My lesson to share with you all is to 'keep it quick'!!!
Or at least use a feeding baster to keep it wet.
Dennis
 

Max

It's me
Jan 26, 2004
2,567
1
0
Mars
Visit site
Man you don't need to vaccume your sand either. You should have a wealth of little infraunal critters that will eat all that nasty detritus. Let them do your work for you.
P.S.
It will be a lot cheaper long term if you get a ro-di unit . If you end up with mts like most of us have it will save you a small fortune and you'll have a lot more controle over what is going into your tank
 

christen51

Registered Member
Nov 5, 2006
4
0
0
Tacoma, WA
Thanks Max, If I disturb my sand it's likely to cloud the tank for hour(s), for instance if I moved some live rock, is that normal?
And until I get a refugium, I believe my Nitrates (@40 average) will be the cause of some sort of brown spots of something growing on my substrate, that soon grows little hairs and it develops into a clump, so I vacuum. That is also my tank telling me its already time for a water change, too. My hermits and starfish don't bother with it.
I'm shopping for a ro/di, I'm in total agreement, on that. BTW, what's 'mts'
Do you think I should start a new thread on these issues?
 

Ghost_knife

AC Members
Nov 17, 2005
2,482
0
0
18
yes, I hardly vac my sand unless one of me fish drops a log, then I use a turkey baster and remove it, your infaunal crittiers will do the work for you
 
zoomed.com
hikariusa.com
aqaimports.com
Store