How to go from non-planted tank to planted?

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ghart999

AC Members
Nov 28, 2006
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Hi all. Total newbie to aquariums. But I am starting a 55G tank in a few weeks and want to start plantless at first. I want to make sure I enjoy the hobbie enough before going planted. Not to mention all the extra stuff I would have to learn right away. I am wondering what can I do to prepare for planted right now that would make it easier to transition later on? Can I use a certain grazel/sand, etc to start with that would not require me to tear the tank down later if I go planted? Or would I have to put down special layers of substrate later on no matter what?

What about filter? I was pretty set on some HOBs, but have read that they upset the water surface too much for plants. Something to do with CO2 issues? If this is the case, should I go canister right off the bat?

Anything else you can think of that I should avoid or make sure I do now?

I will have a community tank so no critters that will eat the plants, etc. Simple fish is my plan.

Thanks all.

Gregg
 

Hutchewon

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Oct 27, 2006
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ghart999 said:
Hi all. Total newbie to aquariums. But I am starting a 55G tank in a few weeks and want to start plantless at first. I want to make sure I enjoy the hobbie enough before going planted. Not to mention all the extra stuff I would have to learn right away. I am wondering what can I do to prepare for planted right now that would make it easier to transition later on? Can I use a certain grazel/sand, etc to start with that would not require me to tear the tank down later if I go planted? Or would I have to put down special layers of substrate later on no matter what?

What about filter? I was pretty set on some HOBs, but have read that they upset the water surface too much for plants. Something to do with CO2 issues? If this is the case, should I go canister right off the bat?

Anything else you can think of that I should avoid or make sure I do now?

I will have a community tank so no critters that will eat the plants, etc. Simple fish is my plan.

Thanks all.

Gregg
The type of gravel (substrate) can be a lot more critical in a planted tank. Generally, you want a much finer gravel, wheras without plant you can have tiny pebbles as your substrate.

Another thing to consider, it that most lights sold in pet stores for aquariums are inadequate for plants. Usually there is little you can do about this, because the tank is sold as a package. Sometimes it is possible to retrofit the pet store bought lights with retro-fit kits like these www.ahsupply.com .

If you ever plan to dose co2, and most people end up going that route. It is preferable to have a filter that disturbs the water surface minamumly.

Initially, if you pick easy to grow low light tanks, you may be able to grow some live plants if you replace the bulb in you store bought strip light with a brighter one.

HTH
 

Marinemom

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Apr 8, 2006
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Ideally, a canister filter is the perfered form of filteration in a planted tank but I am sure that not everyone that has a planted tank has just canisters running. As far as lighting, in a non planted tank the lights that come with the tank are fine for viewing your fish but in a planted tank you will want to consider better lighting. For low to medium lights, you will want at least 2 watts of light per gallon of water. For lighting in this situation, most people shoot for 2-3 watts of light for the tank. Anymore than that and then you will have to consider co2 injection in your system which is a whole new ball game.

Marinemom
 

beviking

Senior Member, Sophomoric Attitude
Feb 16, 2002
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You can fit a sponge over the outflow of your HOB to reduce surface turbulence. Any disturbance to the surface makes a larger air/water interface which results in a quicker rate of CO2 diffusion into the air. With plants, you want to keep as much CO2 in the water as you can. Still, a sponge protruding into the waters surface is not very pleasant to look at so most go with a canister filter. You can make that switch later if you'd like. The substrate is something you could do now that will save you later. I wouldn't recommend layering your substrate, although some do and have great success, if you're going to wait anyway, whatever substrate you use will accumulate mulm/detritus which will be good for the plants later. Go with one of the plant substrates, any of them will work so pick one that looks good to you.
 

ghart999

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Nov 28, 2006
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Thanks a lot for the suggestions. I think I will go canister right off the bat. What about a biowheel in addition for the bio filtration? Isn't that going to disturb the water surface just as bas as a HOB? Can I avoid the biowheel?
 

skeletonhand

Landscaper Extraordinaire
Sep 9, 2006
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Lincoln, NE
If your planning on Injecting CO2 later (which more than likely, once you get hooked :) I wouldn't use a biowheel. It can cause to much surface aggetation and cause some CO2 loss. When I first started my tank I only planed on using a few plants. Few turned into many. If I were do it again, I wouldn't have bought a packaged aquarium. I would have bought the tank, and Power compact lights (coralife freshwaters are the best) with 6700K bulbs, and a canister filter it has UV sterilization built in. I ended up buying it all in the end to replace the stuff that came in the package.

Here is what my tank looks like now. http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84558

The first set of pics are before the canister filter and CO2 injection.

The second set is current setup.

Good luck

SKEL
 

epicfish

AC Members
Sep 4, 2006
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What everyone else said:
1) Fine substrate, ie: sand, Flourite, Eco-Complete.
2) For a 55 gallon tank, go for a canister filter. Helps with CO2 later too.
3) Use stock lighting for now, don't upgrade anything. You're going to have to do it later anyways.
4) Save up money in the meantime, you're gonna need it.
 
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