Learn me canister filters?

I run two Eheim Classic 2217s on my 125...have for years.

Mark

Byron Amazonas said:

There are filters available for every sized aquarium. If you have a huge tank with large messy fish, and want two filters instead of one larger one, fine. My initial comments were in response to the OP's question if a second filter was necessary with a canister, and the answer to that is certainly no, provided you have an adequate filter for the tank and the intended fish. I'm thinking biologically here, which I had assumed (perhaps incorrectly) was the thinking behind the question.

Byron.

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Although I'm not the thread OP, that's exactly what I was asking when I expanded on the discussion. I've discussed some of my fish with you in different threads, and am now considering appropriate filters. I have never used a canister type, but am considering one because I've gotten the impression that they work great, are easy to maintain, don't take up tank space, and have intake/output lines that can be put on opposite sides of the tank (better water circulation). The 180g I looked at comes with one - and some other stuff - because it was intended for a saltwater/reef setup. I have a large fish that's known for crashing around and breaking things, notably heaters and thermometers. Been lucky so far that the HOB hasn't been totaled yet, but am now considering a lot of things in order to properly house this fish and his tankmates.

Speaking of under gravel filters, has anyone used a canister setup to do a RFUGF? This to me seems it would be better than a spraybar, my only thought would be not enough surface agitation. In this case, the HOB would suffice for surface agitation, but would the canister driven RFUGF alone work as far as O2 levels are concerned?

sumthin fishy said:

Speaking of under gravel filters, has anyone used a canister setup to do a RFUGF? This to me seems it would be better than a spraybar, my only thought would be not enough surface agitation. In this case, the HOB would suffice for surface agitation, but would the canister driven RFUGF alone work as far as O2 levels are concerned?

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Yes, I have.. but have never been terribly concerned with surface agitation. If you really need gas exchange for your tank water, you can always use an airstone.

I seldom point my spraybar at the surface to get any agitation and have never had a problem.


IME, the point behind RUGF is to keep detritus in the water column so that it can be picked up by regular filters, if you need extra airation/oxygenation, handle that separately if you need. But personally with RUGF, I've had the best luck with powerheads and prefilters, not a cannister filter.

My thought is the canister will "prefilter" as it were, or rather post filter? normally you would have say a powerhead driving the RUGF to clean substrate, and perhaps a HOB to clean water. With the can, it would use the filtered outlet water to drive the RUGF, and the inlet to filter water. I might try it, but now that I think of it, I tend to use multiple filters so if one fails the other will keep up for a while.....

Dougall, is your succes with PHs over cans due to volume? or some other factor such as ease of maintenance? My current reality is, (now I am back in the fish game)I have more disposible income, but also more caution in spending. I might need to try this.

sumthin fishy said:

Dougall, is your succes with PHs over cans due to volume? or some other factor such as ease of maintenance? My current reality is, (now I am back in the fish game)I have more disposible income, but also more caution in spending. I might need to try this.

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The problem with using a canister was the plumbing, the weight of the hoses and the pressure of the water made the outflow difficult to attach to the uplift tube.

Using a penguin 660R or the 1140 with the reverse flow kit was so much easier, and all contained in the tank.