api test kit

dixienut

dixienut

AC Members
Jun 15, 2006
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Hookstown/Georgetown area pennsylvania
hey guys i just run a nitrate test and a phosphate test..question
the phosphate test either reads 0.0 or 0.5 on the card its the first or the 3rd, definately not 2nd how are you supposed to tell which one it is when it looks so odd, my sample is almost clear but has the coloration if 1,3?
also the nirtate is also confusing its either 5.0 or 10
and this is before any water changes for a while

if either one is at the higher one are they bad for sw?
i just still have lr,emerald crab, 4 hermits and many snails, havent gotten anything else,
also do the pepermint shrimp really eat the pest anemones? and if so can the live with the readings above?
i havent gotten a skimmer yet, and i'm using well water
any input would be appreciated
 
Regarding the nitrate results. 5ppm and 10ppm look are near-identical.

Due to the particular resolution of that test, you'll probably have to view the nitrate as being within 5-10ppm.

In regards to phosphate, you may want to try a test kit (or device) which has a finer degree of resolution. If you ever decide to stock hard corals, you'll probably want a test kit (or device) which can detect levels lower than 0.1ppm (excluding 0ppm).

'Biologic' aptasia control isn't 100% effective in all cases. Some peppermint shrimp may eat all the pest anemones, some may eat some of the anemones. Others won't touch them.

If your tank isn't a reef tank then your nitrate and phosphate levels aren't that bad. Typically, the tank itself will let you know when those levels get out of hand (in the form of cyanobacteria and nuisance algae growth).
 
Looks like KB has you squared away. I actually place the vile right on the color bars, the one without a border is where you are at. 5-10 on nitrates, I agree can't tell the difference.
 
kay-bee said:
Regarding the nitrate results. 5ppm and 10ppm look are near-identical.

Due to the particular resolution of that test, you'll probably have to view the nitrate as being within 5-10ppm.

In regards to phosphate, you may want to try a test kit (or device) which has a finer degree of resolution. If you ever decide to stock hard corals, you'll probably want a test kit (or device) which can detect levels lower than 0.1ppm (excluding 0ppm).

'Biologic' aptasia control isn't 100% effective in all cases. Some peppermint shrimp may eat all the pest anemones, some may eat some of the anemones. Others won't touch them.

If your tank isn't a reef tank then your nitrate and phosphate levels aren't that bad. Typically, the tank itself will let you know when those levels get out of hand (in the form of cyanobacteria and nuisance algae growth).
Click to expand...

For phosphate tests, I would only look into ones that have resolution into the hundredths place. Ideally, you want levels lower than .02 ppm of phosphate.
 
Amphiprion said:
For phosphate tests, I would only look into ones that have resolution into the hundredths place. Ideally, you want levels lower than .02 ppm of phosphate.
Click to expand...

which ones would that be? i just picked up the api saltwater test kit before i'm not sure about the particulars about this stuff
 
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