frags ?

dixienut

AC Members
Jun 15, 2006
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Hookstown/Georgetown area pennsylvania
i would like to buy some small frags but have nothing to trade, as i have none and the ones in the lfs are way too much for me, can anyone help me with finding some more cost affective?
not too smart about these, but only interested in the ones that are photo or filtering types..
any suggestions?
have a 30gal long with cf of around 5 watts per gal.
 
could any one suggest and corals either hard or soft that meet the criteria, of just light or filtering something that dosent need tons of care.. and pics could help as i know not what i'm doing..
i see tons of things in lfs but i don't trust what they tell me..
 
Could you please describe your setup in detail so that more suggestions could be made. Nobody can really give you ideas unless they know your setup, water parameters, etc.
 
i have a 30g long with a h.o.b refudium(sp), mag 350canister for additives and flow right now its empty i just took out the purigen, i have a hob for 30-60gal acting as a wet dry type thing,
lights:
odessa brand: have a 3 way with different switches, 96w cf daylight, 12,000/96w actinic/moon lights
just got a used skimmer coralife 65
but i need some things before running it..
but read the thread about the diy thread saying that skimmers take all the food out and leave the nitrate and phosphourus(sp)
i use well water and have little nitrite/phos. at last test but cant remember now,
calcium naturalys is over 400 out of tap and ph is range 6.7 to 7.8 from fall to spring out of tap and 8+ with tank sand, but fine as of now... with aragonite sugarsized sand 2"
just have a emerald crab, 5 astria snails and 50 vibex snails and a few hermits, a few gone started with 5, not sure how many left.. a few bristle worms a feather duster hitchicker, a few other filter thingys not sure what they are,..

started it 5/14/08 been running good since then,

any info pro or con will help..

also i have the print out for the skimmer but can't find the parts i need..only the ones i don't need i need the output elbow/with hose and the adjustment valve.. it didn't come with it..

this is the number i posted for the nitrate/phos numbers thst i can remember
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159980
just the first post, the rest were at 0
 
If you are going to seriously get into corals, I would first look into getting an RO/DI unit. Many corals won't do well with additional sources of phosphate, especially any that calcify. Ideally, neither nitrate nor phosphate should register on any kit. Unfortunately, it will take a good amount of water changes and/or running phosphate remover to get rid of the phosphate in the water column, as well as what may have been absorbed by the sand and rock. That is why it is essential to start off with RO/DI in most cases.

Could you link me to the skimmer thread you are referring to? Skimmers remove both nitrate and phosphate indirectly by either removing complexed molecules or particles/molecules that break down into phosphate and nitrate. They don't remove them directly, but they can certainly help with the overall levels. Sounds like you were short-changed on your skimmer purchase. You may want to ask a company that supplies the skimmers if they have replacement parts (or find pvc that fits it). If possible, look into the Octopus Skimmers.

I hesitate to recommend anything unless you can provide concrete numbers.
 
The statements about skimmers from that thread are only partially true. Yes food particles/organisms are removed, but so is nitrate and phosphate that is bound in those things--so either way, you are exporting both of them. On the other hand, protein skimmers remove significantly more dissolved organic carbon compounds than a turf scrubber. In all, both work. I suppose it is a matter of preference, though most tanks you see utilize skimmers.
 
Some apparently new research has found that higher DOC is better for coral growth, and that lower DOC is related to more coral deaths. It is a research presentation video from the College of Marine Science at USF St. Petersburg; I included rough quotes of what the video says, along with the minutes and seconds into the video where you can find the info:

http://www.marine.usf.edu/videos/2007-01-26.wmv

23:30 "Bulk DOC does not correlate with coral decline; higher DOC areas have healthier corals; lower DOC areas have weaker corals. The opposite of what we predicted".

24:40 "The DOC to DIN ratio's are higher on healthy reefs, and lower on less-healthy reefs".

25:45 "Microbial numbers are elevated with a lower DOC to DIN ratio" (!)

34:00 "Christmas Island, with the really low DOC, has the highest pathogens, while Kingman Island, with the highest DOC, has the lowest pathogens."

37:00 "On Kingman Island you have high hard-coral coverage and the lowest disease [and highest DOC]. That's weird! What you should find is that as hard-coral coverage reduces, it should be harder for the pathogens to find hosts, so you should see a pathogen decrease. But we're not seeing that, which means there is something else going on."

49:20 "The DOC definitely always goes down, in the really bad coral areas".

52:39 "You can actually put the corals where the nutrients are really high, and the corals are not dying; in some cases they tend to grow better, which is also true in our [???].
 
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