Nitrate

W

Wildiana

wildiana
Sep 27, 2004
486
0
0
55
Syracuse, New York
ok, i'm pretty new in the plant field, i know that a unplanted tank reading should be something like 0 amonia 0 nitrite and about .5 (lower than 20) nitrate...

but is this the goal for a planted tank?

i'm trying to read as much of sticky's as a can with out getting confused, but to late. in one sticky note and many threads, i hear the talk about "adding KN03" is this correct?

i'm pretty sure its correct but then what should my nitrate be (goal)?

i do have a planted tank ( mid planted)
less than 1wpg.
29g tank
18inch high
2 onions
2 Lucens
4 Brazilian sword
1 Anubias barteri 'marble'

nitrite 0
amonia 0
NITRATE SOMEWHERE BETWEEN 40-160 PPM...My card reads from 5.0-160 but the colors from 40-60 seems alike and my readings are about that area of color.
 
Anywhere between 5 and 10 ppm is pretty good, I try to keep it right at 10. Where your problems are going to come in however is your lack of adequate lighting. Even for low light plants like Crypts and Anubias you should be closer to 1.5 wpg. There is no way your swords are going to survive long under that light. Its not just the wpg thats important but the spectrum as well. You could provide 5 wpg but if it is the wrong spectrum it won't do any good. Also, and this pertains to your other post, you need to do at least a 25% water change weekly on a planted tank. There is only two ways to lower your nitrate level Water changes and/or plants. Since you don't have nearly enough plants water changes are the only way to go. With your lighting they wouldn't use it very well anyways.
 
Thanks, i'm currently looking into upgrading my hood.


will do the w/c more often too.

i find it kind of confusing the whole diy light hood.

but i can't find any hoods that has more than one light, or more than 20w. i managed to get a 20w with 8500k.

my bulb is 24inch long, and looking into keeping the frame but somehow adding a second 24inch.(with out electricuting myself :o )

also how long do plants last in bad conditions as mine?
i've had my swords for nearly 2 months.
 
Thats the problem with 20g longs and 29g. They are 30" long but only come with a 24" bulb, which means that the ends of the tank don't get sufficient light. I don't know how serious you want to get with plants, or how much money your willing to spend for that matter, but I would recommend going with a compact fluorescent fixture. In your case you could get a fixture from Big Al's online (great company to do business with) that would give you 65 wpg at a cost of $67. If you want to retrofit a new fixture into your old hood give this place a try AH Supply. If you go CP lighting make sure that you get a bulb thats rated somewhere in the 6500kelvin range up to 10,000k.
 
i saw this one at Big Al's...
Current USA Satellite 24" 65 Watt Power Compact Fixture-Single Strip W/Lunar Light

Our Price: $119.99


i realy don't know what i'm looking for.
 
Heres the one I was looking at. Its a 30" light which should work better than a 24". Current USA Satellite 30". I have the Current USA orbit which is a little bit nicer looking and does include led "moonlights". If you want even more light you can go with a two bulb arrangement Double bulb Satellite. Be aware however that if you go over 3 wpg you will probably need to supplement CO2.
 
Which one did you get? You are lucky being in Syracuse. Their US warehouse is in Niagara Falls, NY so you should have it Monday.

I have some relatives in Syracuse. Aunt and Uncle live on Onandoga hill near the hospital, Grandmother used to live in Mattydale, cousins live out near Camillus.
 
I also live on the Hill, across from OCC (comunity college)

actually i cancelled my order.

and did a stupid, inpatient move. got a 55w from my lfs with 9000+K for 80.00


i know, i know.

but now i have a bit more wpg than before, and the plants that i'm getting so far are low light low maint. (yes i'm justify'n)

anyway, small world. i'm from NJ but been up here with my wife for about 5yrs. she's from syracuse herself.

Thanks for you help.
 
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