Want to do pressurized CO2, but I am a newb

TrickyD119 said:

Background:
I want to go with a pressurized CO2 system on my 29g tank to start to get a feel for it and will eventually be moving all of my inhabitants over to my new 55g when I move in August and will be also moving the CO2 system to that. I currently have a 55w retrofit from ahsupply on my 29g and it is lightly stocked, but has quite a few plants.

Problem:
I’ve never even done DIY CO2 so my knowledge is very limited and while I’ve read quite a bit, I’m not 100% certain I understand everything. I want to go straight to pressurized because a. I don’t really like the idea of having another thing to mess with every week and b. I figure I’ll definitely want it pressurized on the 55g so I might as well get the hang of it.

Questions:

1. As I understand it, I will need the following; a 5lb CO2 tank, a two-valve regulator, a needle-valve, silicone tubing, a CO2 reactor and a pump. Anything I missed here?
2. I’ve also seen solenoids and bubble counters mentioned. I have no idea what a solenoid even does, are these instruments that I am best off having?
3. As far as testing kits go, I have pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Phosphate, GH and KH, are there any others I need?
4. Besides lighting and CO2 and lighting I’ve read that I’ll need to add “trace” elements for the plants to grow their best. So far my Nitrates have remained around 10ppm, assuming that remains, can I get by with only adding Seachem Flourish to the tank once a week? Or is there more to it than that?

Sorry for the laundry list of questions, but I’d sure appreciate help

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1. Yes thats everything, except a bubble counter may be handy, but not a nessecity.

2. A solinoid turns off the C02 system at night if set on a timer. C02 is only needed when the light is on. So really with the soloniod you save on C02 gas by only using it when you need it. As for a bubble counter, as i said above, you dont need one. But it sure help when getting things started! Atleast you get some idae of how much is being pumped into your tank, and that way you can avoid poisining!

3. Nope, you have all the basic kits required!

4. Now heres the tricky part, well in the begining anyways. With the amount of light you have, you probably wont need to dose much, but you will have too dose some, but then again that dependa on plant mass. Nitrates should be kept between 5-10 ppm. You mwill also have to add phosphates, and keep them around .5-1 ppm. Also, potasium will be needed. For potasium though, use pottasium nitrate which has both potsium and nitrates in them. With this you will get all the potasium your plants require! These three basic element are what they call the macros. Flourish contains all the iron, trace elements, etc. For dosing micros, begin dosing with half the bottle instructions and see how things go. If you feel you need more, add slowly and in small amounts and keep an eye on algae. As for macros, you will have to check daily for a while and monitor things, to get a routine set. Be aware though that when ever you increse plant mass, or take away plants nutrient requrements change, so be carefull.

Also, in case you ask, you should keep your C02 levels at around 20-30 ppm. to figure this out you have to measure your KH and PH, then look at a chart too see what yor levels are. Your probably aware of this as youve done some research.

If you have more questions, or are unclear on anything, dont hestitate to ask. Theres tons of good people here who will direct you the right way. I too just recently (month agao) installed pressurized C02 and lighting. Its not hard at all once you get use to it!

Oh and by the way, get some algae eating fish just in case. Plecos or ottos for spot algae, SAE for brush algae and many other types! Better safe then sorry i always say. Anways, ive said too much i think....

good post, very good questions.

TrickyD119 said:

Thanks for the reply Mooch, that was very helpful.

With that I guess I have a few more questions now for you or anyone else who wouldn't mind answering.

1. I just read up a little bit on the solenoid and I’ve read that it can cause slightly larger fluctuations in pH than simply letting it run all the time. Is that accurate? If so, considering that I stock German Blue Rams, is that something I should worry about?
2. I’ve read that if the tank is well lit and fed that the likelihood of needing to add phosphate is slim. Is that inaccurate? If so, what should one use to supplement phosphates?
3. As far as adding potassium nitrate goes, the only recommendation I’ve read about (if in fact I’m thinking of the right thing) was Green Light Stump Remover. Is that the correct stuff? Are there any other sources of this I should be considering?

Thank you for that tip. I had been adding the called for amount in my tank right now (using Excel for CO2) and can probably attribute that for my algae growth.


Very encouraging to know that you've recently gone through this and had success, thanks for the reassurance. I'll see if I can locate any SAE's locally, I've only got 3 otos in there right now. Thanks again Mooch.

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1. Depends on your KH. The lower the KH, the more your PH will fluctuate. My KH is a tad on the low side at 4, but my ph only swings from 6.9 too 6.6. A .3 swing overnight wont harm your fish at al as its a gradual change anywaysl. But what are your KH readings as of now?

2. You can get pottasium phosphate from a hydrophonics store. It comes as a powder which then you can mix your self with water using chucks aquarium calculator, which tells you how much too add in the bottle, and how much in ppm it changes your tank by adding so much. You can also get the pottasium phosphates or pottasium nitrates here. As for not needing phophates, well depends on your tank. You will have to measure you phosphates and see if they stay between .5-1 ppm, if they dont, you have too add.

This site here has a downloadable calculator, as well as tons of info on dosing your tank and how to take care of a planted aquarium. It really helped me!

http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/articles.htm

Here you can buy the ferts, which are very, very cheap compared too what you get in the store. I saved over 300 dollars using this stuff with my size tank.

http://www.gregwatson.com/products.asp?cat=8

Heres a breakdown of his ferts, and which ones youl need...

KNO3------------for Nitrate (wich contains traces of potasium)
KH2PO4----------for Phosphates (which contains traces of potasium)

3. I wouldnt use stump remover as people have had mixed results with it. Rather use the stuff above, and get it from either Gregs site i gave you, or a local hydrophonics store. I payed like 15 bucks for both, and it wil easily last me over a year or possibly two by making my own mix!

If you dont get anything, im allways around Good luck!

By the way, everything im telling you is exactly what everyone else told me here.

Just remember one thing though, always start off slow when adding ferts, i got a bit carried away when i started, and had some algae issues that are now under control. Dosing every other day seems to work well for most, but i dose in very small amounts daily, well except for nitrates. What ever works for you!

TrickyD119 said:

Sorry to quote myself here, but I just stopped by thte LFS and wanted to verify some information I got from him.

I figure my tank is closer to 0° than 3 because my test kit never turned blue, it just went straight from clear to a faint yellow on the first drop...

Anyway, he had crushed coral but told me that he'd recommend I use Oyster Shells instead of crushed coral because something about the crushed coral giving something off that could eventually hurt the fish gills.

Any idea what he was talking about there or if he was right?

If he is wrong, is crushed coral what I'd want?

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Baking soda is also something people use, but it has too be added continiously. The shells do work, but they take time to alter the water, sometimes a few months i hear. As for what kind of shells, im honestly not sure as ive never messed with my KH or had a need too. Do some research on google, and you should get you answer!

Ideally, you want too get it between 4-8 degrees KH, with 8 being better.

Heres a very helpful calculator ive found to calculate your needs.

http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/calKH.asp

TrickyD119 said:

I just wanted to thank you for all the help in this thread Mooch , I'd still be lost without all that help.

I have just a couple more questions that I wanted to ask.

1. Did you purchase your regulator, etc. online? Do you have a site you'd recommend?
2. Did you buy a CO2 reactor online? If so, which did you get?
3. a pH controller looks like a lot of money, but I'd buy it if it'd make things better. Are you for or against those?

Thanks again for all your help. I purchased my 5lb tank today and hope to complete the rest of the purchases online tonight.

edit: By the way, I've just spent the past half-hour reading over all of your old posts on these subjects, it is eerily similar how many of the questions you asked are exactly the same as what I was looking for in this thread lol. I guess I should have done that before

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1. Got an awsome deal here http://www.aquatic-store.com/
I went with the Milwaukee CO2 Regulator with needle valve, solenoid valve, and bubble counter. The JBJ is a tad more expensive, but i heard the Milwaukee has a much more realiable solenoid so went with that one.

2. As for a reactor. You can build one like this...

http://www.aquaticscape.com/articles/co2reactor.htm
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10755

or you can purchase some from the link i gave you for the C02 equipment.

or you could just run it through a powerhead (not in the ventura though) as i did with great results!

Personally id go with making the reator if you have a canister filter, as its quiter and more efficient then running it through a power head. Most people run it at 2 bubbles per second, but im running at 3 bubbles per second and easily hitting 30ppm. My 15lbs tank should last me for a year easily!

3. I personally wouldnt get a PH controller. Waste of money imo. I dont have one, and have been just fine. As long as you get your KH up, your PH will remain steady. Just remember to monitor PH though when you start it, and start with around 1 bubble per two seconds in the bubble counter.

And ya, i only know all of this because i had simular questions. I was once a dope!