From petshrimp.com

Swimfins

This is as good as it gets.
Common Name:
African Giant Filter Shrimp, Vampire Shrimp, African Fan Shrimp

Scientific Name:
Atya gabonensis

Size:
over 15cm

Temperature:
tropical species, best kept at 75°F-84°F
Food:
Filters floating food items from the water, should be given very small flake food or crushed/powderized food. Also takes food from the ground if there is nothing to filter.
Origin:
West Africa and Eastern Tropica. South America both sides of the Atlantic.

Larval Development Type:
Normal: larvae go through several planktonic stages before metamorphosing into post-larvae (miniature shrimp) and assuming a benthic lifestyle. For this process they need brackish water to full strength saltwater.


The African Filter Shrimp is very rare in the hobby. It is usually not sold in pet stores and is rarely available through importers. Just like their asian cousins, they filter tiny food particles out of the water as their main food. As with all filter feeding shrimp, these shrimp are also entirely wild-caught. This will deplete their numbers in the long run, especially if this shrimp becomes more popular in the future. I am hoping to get these animals soon and attempt to breed them also, so they can be widely available.

Their coloration seems to be very variable and changes even with age. It could range from a brownish blue, to black, grey or even white. The above picture probably shows what they look like when fully grown. As the Asian Filter Shrimp, they are a long lived species and live at least 5 years when kept correctly. They will survive for a long time in a community tank, however they will never thrive there and probably starve to death slowly since there won't ever be enough food for them to filter or pick up from the ground (fish are always faster). It is best to put them in a species tank or plant tank and feed them floating micro-food items. They they will also display their best colors and their various techniques of filtering food out of the water.

These shrimp should never be housed with fish that could hurt it, such as most cichlids, even if the fish is smaller than the shrimp or the same size. The African Filter Shrimp itself is totally harmless and is not even capable of hurting the smallest fry or other, smaller shrimp. Thus, it can be housed with all of the algae eating shrimp mentioned on this website, regardless of size.


I thought I was buying singapore woodshrimp. Do I infact have this shrimp?
The shrimps are blue, and blue grey. They do not have the line down the back like asian woodshrimp. So, do I posess the African monsters? Or, will thier color change?
I'm confused as this info says, the gabonensis shrimp is rarely available in petshops. Thanks.
 
I think the only way to tell for sure is with a pic, but it may well be - my Singapore/wood/bamboo shrimp (Atyopsis moluccensis) are brown/red, sort of pinstriped with a cream undertone, and a very prominent beige stripe running down their backs from head to tail.
They sound quite similar - wood shrimp grow to 4", so you would have had some fairly large shrimp anyway, though 6" is pretty big! I know RTR and Veneer have kept shrimp species that (including very long 'arms') can reach nearly 24" which really amazes me (and freaks me out a little) :eek:
 
I have a young one of these shrimp, which came in to the LFS mixed with a batch of Singapore shrimp. I've also seen them routinely at the Aquarium Center in Randallstown. They are in the hobby trade. That particular site has a lot of good info, but the owner has some peculiar attitudes/ideas with which I take serious issues. Much of the hobby is dependent on wild-caught imports. There is nothing carved in stone that hobby collection of wild caught fish and imports must deplete the stocks in nature. Most critters which are in the hobby which are in trouble in the wild are in such shape due to habitat destruction and/or over-collection for food. Hobby collection,and its value to the local economy and to the habitat, can on the contrary be a help, as it can serve well to protect the environment and the critters there. Project Piaba in the Amazon has shown this, and other similar efforts are underway in other areas.

I do not keep any filter feeder shrimp in community tanks, as they are too hard to target feed. All of mine are in species tanks. On that point I do agree with that site.
 
Many thanks Blinky and RTR

I went out to pay a bill :coffee2: and dropped in at this LFS which is in the area, where I bought the shrimp. Soooooooooo, I ask the guy cleaning tanks if he knows if they are Asian or African. He went in the back to ask and came out and told me they are in fact African (gabonensis).

Cool, 6 inch shrimp. Barbecue time? :rolleyes:


I remember someone saying that the price of African species would go up due to the difficulty of getting them out of the country, especially the Congo.
So I questioned wether these were in fact African. 14.99 dollars each btw.

Amazing. Yes, RTR these guys are in my 25g with a betta and 11 whiteclouds. I picked up some flakes on my wet finger and stuck it into the outpour of my aquaclear filter. They are right in front of it under a piece of mopani wood, where the flakes hit bottom.

I will move them and the mopani to a species tank asap. Since they can hit 6 inch or so, how big do you think they'd need? Or should I leave them in the 25g and move the minnows and betta instead.
 
Well, right now mine is in a 10 for QT (it is about an inch and a half now), so not likely a permanent home. If mine ever grows to full size, its home is likely to be 30, as that is the minimum I use for a 6" fish. These are not as active as most fish, but do have the body mass - they are really chunky shrimp, more mass than many common LFS crayfish. As soon as it through QT, it will move to a 20-long for grow-out. I'll monitor nitrate production/build-up to get an idea for when it is time to move up to something larger. I'm feeding Cyclop-eeze, micro-pellets, and newly hatched BBS (because I have a hatchery going for some fry at the moment).

I am such a sucker. I went by the LFS today to get a moonlight for the grow-out tank. If I have to move to a 30, it will be the same type of setup. It will be RFUG, lightly planted, some bogwood and some river rocks, two Fluval internals for current. My norm is 1/3 to 1/2 partials weekly.

It may be another of my notorious "empty" tanks, but I do seem to be addicted to such. :rolleyes:

HTH
 
Ok, you've given me an idea now :idea2: (rare)
I will keep the two monsters in my 25g, and I will transfer the betta and his whiteclouds to another tank. Ooooooo did I say another tank?
MTS here I come. I see a lightly planted tank with sand and river rock for these guys.

I think the moonlights ar a good idea for the shrimp people since they like to hideout. I can see their little claws waving at me if I squint through the ambulia just right. I hope no one is watching me through the windows! I've finally lost my mind.
 
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*Laff* if you've lost it, you're not alone :)
From a distance, my shrimp-only tank looks empty, and I spend lots of time sitting right in front of it, craning my head around to check under the edges and around the back of the log to see if they're hanging upsidedown in the current. I've put a small desk lamp beside the tank, I turn it on before lights out and leave it for a few hours so I can watch them come out and cruise around in the semi-dark.
I'd love to see a pic of your little (soon to be big) guys, though I know from trying myself it's not easy to get a good picture of these critters sometimes.
 
Right now, unless I move the mopani wood and make them scurry, which I don't want to, to avoid stressing them, I can just see the little hairy legs under the arch in the wood. I haven't seen them move at all. My camera is not very good at closeups, but soon as I get batteries I'll try.

I have a question about iodine or idodide. Which is it, that they need?
How do you dose it for your shrimp RTR / Blinky, and what are you feeding Blinky? Are they slow growers? I'm trying to picture 6 inch shrimp...lol. I think I'll keep the tank in the kitchen...cool. :)

I've seen cyclopeeze,I'll get some. Last night I melted bloodworms and dropped a few at their spot.
 
I am an iodide doser (Iodine is a topical disinfectant, not at all what you want as it is toxic - the chloride salt is not). I add Seachem's Reef Iodide after most water changes, at about the suggested dosage (but only once per change, not daily or every other day as suggested). This is pure pragmatism. Iodide supplement is highly controversial. I used to lose a significant number of my shrimp in molt. Since I tried the iodide addition, my molt deaths have effectively stopped. Many folks say that it is mythology, but if it works for me I am more than willing to use it.
 
I just came from reading a post in petshrimp.com where the moderator 'Mustafa' argues adding iodide is not necessary since it is not found in freshwater. Someone points out that if iodide is not necessary, why is it an ingredient in most shrimp foods? Then he goes on to say, if it has any benefits for aiding molting, its best ingested anyway, and not simply added to the water.

DUH! I think I'll get some of the Kent stuff and dose as your are RTR.


By the way, iodine is no longer used as a topical antiseptic anymore, its been discovered that using it can macerate healthy skin and so delay healing. It was taken from our hospital inventory a few years ago. I don't know if its still available over the counter.

My table salt contains iodide, would adding salt be the same as buying the Kent marine preparation? Thanks for the response :)
 
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