Cycling with Danios

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Sorry sm100378! it seems that everyone seems to be bashing you instead of helping just because they do fishless cycling.

Using hardy fish is a good way (althought many people would disagree) to cycle your tank as long as you keep up on the water changes. The tank doesn't really begin to cycle until fish are put in, IMO.

I'd say test your water at least twice a day and do at least 10% water changes if neccessary.
 
there isnothing wrong with doing a fish cycle ..as long as you try to keep the ammonia, nitrites and nitrates at safe levels.


the fact of the mater is there will be tiny trace amounts of ammonia,nitrites in a normal tank..the bacteria ,tho efficient, cannot and do not immediately consume ammonia etc.

the point is to keep these levels safe until bacteria can colonize and do this for you.
do water changes and try to keep ammonia and nitrites at ot below .25 ppm.
nitrates less than 40 ppm.

good luck


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I would say don't get any more Danios unless they are fish you plan to keep after the cycling.
 
i find it very annoying how everyone is all about fishless cycles and get on everyone for not doing. my parameters in mine have never been too high. out of 11 fish, one has died and that was within the first two days i got them. if someone asks a question about a fishy cycle, either answer it or just dont comment. it doesnt help at all when people tell you to do a fishless cycle. and dont say that it ALWAYS hurts the fish because my parameters never went above .25ppm. i just had so many problems getting answers without getting hassled for doing a fishy so i just want to let you know that it is okay to do a fishy cycle

I wasnt bashing ... Iam just trying to figure out what would be different as far as test results go with or without fish. Since they stared out with a fishless cycle and didnt like how the test readings looked they got fish and put in thinking it would make the test reading all of a sudden read right.

If anyone wants to do a fishy cycle that is their business ... We just try to inform people on what is involved in each type so they know what they are getting into. I personally do fishless cycles so I am not having to constantly do water changes. Fishy cycles can be done safely and have been done for many years .... It is just a matter of how much work that is involved that makes me like fishless over fishy.
 
As for changing the water removing good bacteria...

The bacteria is on the substrate, deco, in the filter...it isn't in the water. Just keep doing water changes.

actually the bacteria will be in the water..just not a majority of it.;)
 
okay no you don't need more fish, you do however need to do a water change about 50% and soon like today. ank keep doing them till your parameters become safe.

Lets not turn this into a flame thread just because a persons ideas are different then yours.


Do I have no respect on this forum??????? Please just do water changes and don't add more fish.
 
Hi,

I know that Zebra's can live through most water conditions, very hardy actually. Would you say 25% every other day? Isn't it better to not change the water until the nitrite's lower and there is visibility of nitrate's? Only asking because if I keep doing changes, how will bacteria build up in my bio-wheel?

I tried fish less with ammonia but it was messing up my chem tests. I don't have any mature bacteria from another tank, and have realized that ammonia doesn't create nitrite.

By high nitrates, it is about 4-5.

Thank you,
SM

Anwsering questions, etc in order:

Danios are quite hardy, which means it takes a lot more energy (pain) to kill them than other fish, thus they endure more than the average fish.

I would say 50% at least daily, or whenever you see any ammonia/nitrites over 0.20 ppms.

You could change the water once nitrates appear, but that means the cycle is either A), over, or B), almost over. By then, the danios would be severely injured, dead, or dying.

Bacteria are mainly on the surface of your tank. When you test, the bacteria is the bacteria that is floating in the water. There's a lot more that is hardly affecting the fish, on the sides. There will be 95& of the bacteria on surfaces, with you removing the dangerous 5%.

Ammonia shouldn't mess up your tests, unless it shoots up the ammonia. How exactly did it "mess up" your tests?

Nitrates are best between 10 and 20, while 40+ is considered high. I believe you are getting them mixed up with NitrItes, which at 0.25 ppm are dangerous to fish.

Again, not starting a flame war, just some facts mixed with my opinion here,

-DP
 
Hi all. I'm relatively new to the site, i've only been postin for a couple of months. Everyone started off as a beginner. We all learn from each other. Each and everyone of us has shown an interest in the hobby that brings us all together, and in my opinion is why this site was founded. Just because it's different doesn't mean it is wrong as long as it is done with the fishes best interests at heart. I fishy cycled my tank and i worked hard with wc's to keep the levels low. Hope this helps all
 
To the people creating ruckus about doing a fishy cycle: Get lost


To everyone else: Thank you. I meant to say that my Ammonia is 0 and my nitrites are 4-5. I am not showing nitrates, nor do I need to test for them yet as I still have nitrites.

I will not get any more fish and will continue to do water changes. The fish are very active and actually don't mind the water parameters.


Thanks again!
SM
 
To the people creating ruckus about doing a fishy cycle: Get lost


To everyone else: Thank you. I meant to say that my Ammonia is 0 and my nitrites are 4-5. I am not showing nitrates, nor do I need to test for them yet as I still have nitrites.

I will not get any more fish and will continue to do water changes. The fish are very active and actually don't mind the water parameters.


Thanks again!
SM

Many fish will still be active, even though toxins are in the water. I would not go so far as to say you know the fish like the conditions, considering the toxicissidy (sp.) levels.
 
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