Need some advice for new 14 gallon tank

finsNfur

finsNfur

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May 29, 2008
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Connecticut
I have a new 14 gallon tank, in the early days of cycling. Right now it has three Zebra Danios in it, along with a baby guppy the LFS threw in that I didn't know about until I got home. Hopefully he'll survive the cycling, because eventually I do want to add a few guppies to the tank. I also want just a few bottom feeders, but after researching, I've learned that catfish varieties for a small tank all need to be in groups of six or more. My poor previous Cory we had once in another tank for years; at that time the LFS had told me one was the accepted number. Poor guy was probably lonely. So anyway, now I want to do this the right way. Unless someone can make another suggestion for a bottom feeder that likes solitude, I want to get five or six C. habrosus. Then a few guppies, and if the Zebras make it through the cycling process I'll need a few more of those to keep them happy, too. And that's all the room I will have.

So my questions are:

1) Are the pygmy cories in a group the best option for a 14 gallon tank, or is there another bottom feeder that would be happy alone?

2) Currently I have flat marbles in the tank, but I have quickly decided I don't like it, and the Cories wouldn't like it, either. Can I get some kind of soft, small gravel, or is sand essential? I have heard sand compacts, is that true?

3) Plants. I am afraid the tank will get algae on the sides and bottom with plants, this has happened to me in the past. Although, I used to keep the lights on a lot, maybe that is why? Is it necessary to have plants? What are the easiest to grow plants? Is Java Moss too invasive? My LFS's do not sell live plants, I will need to buy them somewhere. Or perhaps they can order some for me.

Thank you so much for any suggestions.
 
My wife has 6 panda corys in her 15g.
Sand is not essential but IMO it looks a lot better than gravel.
Plants also are not necessary it just depends on what you like.
 
finsNfur said:
1) Are the pygmy cories in a group the best option for a 14 gallon tank, or is there another bottom feeder that would be happy alone?
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Best keep the pygmies in group. 6 should be fine or you can try Hara hara.

2) Currently I have flat marbles in the tank, but I have quickly decided I don't like it, and the Cories wouldn't like it, either. Can I get some kind of soft, small gravel, or is sand essential? I have heard sand compacts, is that true?
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The finer the substrate, the easier it compacts. Cories tend to disturb the substrate while foraging the bottom so it is not much of a big deal. You can add Malaysian trumpet snails if you like. These tend to proliferate quickly however if food supply becomes too abundant.

3) Plants. I am afraid the tank will get algae on the sides and bottom with plants, this has happened to me in the past. Although, I used to keep the lights on a lot, maybe that is why? Is it necessary to have plants? What are the easiest to grow plants? Is Java Moss too invasive? My LFS's do not sell live plants, I will need to buy them somewhere. Or perhaps they can order some for me.
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10 hours lighting is sufficient for plants. Java moss is undemanding and easy to keep. It can proliferate depending on the conditions however that is no reason to worry. Trim and sell the plant to the LFS. I like Java moss as this serves as a breeding medium for most egg scatterers such as danios and white cloud mountain minnows.
 
Flat marbles as big marbles as the substrate? If so I would change out the substrate to either fine gravel or sand.

Marinemom
 
Finsnfur - welcome to the site! 14g is a nice tank to kick off with.

4 or 5 dwarf corys should do great, provided your tank is cycled and you keep your water in good condition.

Plants don't bring algae - they can actually help to control it, by using 'excess' nutrients that algae feeds on. You can help to prevent algae by not overfeeding (be mean with your food - the fish will live longer and stay healthier and algae will find it hard to grow without any food supply!). One of the biggest causes of bad water is overfeeding. Fish can look hungry all the time, but you need to make sure they eat every scrap of food you put in the tank within say 10 - 15 minutes, or net it back out and feed less, less often.

Zebra danios should survive a carefully controlled cycling process - don't add a lot of fish at the beginning. Give the nitrifying bacteria a chance to develop by just putting maybe 4 to 6 danios in there at the start. Invest in an API Freshwater Master Test Kit and make daily water checks. As soon as ammonia or nitrites start to show, even at very low amounts, make 25% water changes using water that you have prepared in advance (use Prime if you use city water). Get the temperature the same as the water in your tank before slowly replacing the 3 or 4 gallons you took out. I use a 5 gallon new (i.e. unused for anything else) plastic bucket for my changes and actually have several standing around with clean water in them, in an area where they cannot possibly be contaminated by household cleaning materials or sprays.

If you want plants to help maintain good water quality, you should plant them in advance of adding your fish, to avoid disturbance to the tank and to be able to give them a good start with fertilizers (example, Seachem Flourish, or some equivalent fertilizers). You'll need about 28 watts of lighting, although some manage with less. Choose your plants carefully to make sure they will grow well in the lighting conditions you have - dying plants (due to no ferts or poor lighting) will add to tank pollution. If you have less than 2 watts per gallon - choose 'low light' plants. Do some research into this to avoid wasting a lot of money on plants that die as quick as you can plant them! Plants can cost more than fish, but a tank with healthy plants looks stunning and is in some ways easier to manage than an unplanted tank.

I started my fishy cycle with 6 zebra danios in a 10g tank, so I know they should do fine if you keep an eye on the water chemistry.

Enjoy the learning experience, too...and don't be afraid to ask for help!

OscarEmmy.
 
I use pool filter sand, which doesn't compact in my experience, is cheap and my corys love it.
 
Thanks so much for all the advice!

I am in fact checking the water every day with an API kit. I did have an ammonia spike yesterday, and changed 1/4 of the water, and today it was fine. Although it's cloudy, but I gather that is normal? I did actually get a rubbermaid container already, with a lid, in anticipation of filling it with water. Yesterday I just got it from the tap and added Aqua Clear to it when I did the partial water change. I didn't see Prime at the store, just Aqua Clear and something like Stress Zone? (I can't remember the exact name) And if I keep the water standing in the container, won't it be too cool? By using tapwater I managed to get it to the same temp, well, it was one degree off, but pretty close. But I do like the idea of keeping water in the rubbermaid.

Thanks again so much for all the advice. I've had aquariums on and off for many years, but previously didn't know so much about the early cycling. It is a wonder that I ever had fish survive, and many survived for years without ever properly cycling at the beginning! I used to check the water regularly, but never those first weeks. And I previously made all sorts of other mistakes, too. This forum will be a big help.

Do I buy pool filter sand from a pool store? There is actually a pool store five minutes from me. Can I buy it in small amounts?

I think I might start off with java moss, since it seems pretty easy. Then I will gradually add more plants.
 
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Actually, would play sand also work? We have an unopened bag of new play sand.
 
Play sand should work if its not too fine. I know lots of people who use it but what they sell for play sand around here is so fine its almost dust. I used a sand made for landscaping. It has particle sizes from very small up to almost 1 mm. It was intended to be used a b base for laying patio pavers, the small concrete blocks, so it was very dirty when I got it. You are likely to find that play sand is very dirty with dust too so be sure to wash it well.
 
heh, my cory cats love play sand, always digging in the top part, looking for food that someone missed. I would add Trumpet snails though, because if you have plants the roots get in the way of churning the sand by hand.

Oh, and one other thing. Most plants can't grow under the limited lighting that stock lights have. IME I have had trouble growing Java ferns as well under stock. After I upgraded, my ferns have literally taken off.
 
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