DIY Internal Canister Filter!!!

DIY Internal Canister Filter Mark II

check out the new thread! i'm building a bigger and better version now!
 
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Just read this whole thread. :)

Them kill joys though. :(

I can't see how the "reliability/last for yrs" thing could even come up?

If this thing stops working, its because the PH quit.
You walk in LFS yelling OMG!!! My filter Quit!!! I need a part to fix it NOW!!!
LFS employee asks... "what part do you need?"
You... " A, PH".
LFS employee asks... "what kind?"
You... "The kind that works!"
LFS employee says... "That way > "
You... "Thanks!"

-
Opposed to manufactured filter:

You walk in LFS yelling OMG!!! My filter Quit!!! I need a part to fix it NOW!!!
LFS employee asks... "what part do you need?"
You... " A gasket for my ehum".
LFS employee asks... "what kind?"
You... "IDK, the one that goes in between here n there!"
LFS employee says... "Hummm... nope don't have any of those... I can get one in for you next thursday. "
You... " :swear:! "

:P

Got a link to the new one?

 
lol sminc!!! yea, it'd be cool to have that happen, but so far the powerheads have been a-ok!

i built a larger version of the one seen on the first page. i used a planter's peanut butter jar (holds 2 pounds) and drilled out the bottom where i put the strainer. jar is easy to find; go to wal-mart's snack section- my fav. part of their store!!!

then i filled it up in layers from bottom to top. at the bottom, i put fluval's pre filter media, then wads of poly fill, then 2 boxes of fluval bio max at the top where the lid screws on.

pics are coming as soon as the batteries re-charge for my camera!
 
here are the pics!!!:evil_lol:



the jar is planter's honey roasted peanuts- 2lb 2 oz size (that's the jar: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W7T4Y4) .
bought it at wal-mart for 4 bucks. good eating!!!:)

the bottom is fluval pre filter media ( http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4136+8228&pcatid=8228)

that blue layer is foam and poly fill- you can it from joann fabrics.

the top layer is fluval bio-max(http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4136+15433&pcatid=15433)

i use an aquaclear 20 powerhead on the top (get those guys CHEAP off ebay- was 10 bucks for one for me- dr fosters wanted 13 plus s/h!!!):eek3:

i used i box of pre filter and about 2 boxes of bio-max. just as a side note, i had 1 liter of eheim's mechanical media (efimech), and it filled only about 3/4:headshake2: of the fluval pre-filter media's box!!! you get more from fluval in that area guys!!!:dance:

it rocks! i only have to clean it like every 3 weeks or so. the media does a great job of breaking down debris. i cleane dit last week, so it should be good for a while now.

cleaning it is a bit of a chore. i have to put it in a bucket and take it all to the sink and wash off the media.

PICT0002_2.JPG PICT0003_3.JPG
 
Somehow I missed this thread but Im impressed because unlike a simple exposed sponge filters the media in this filter is almost fully enclosed. This is important because one of the big reasons I don't use and don't like internal filters is because of the debris spill that occurs when you pull them out above the water and they hemorrhage dirt back into the tank. But this jar idea is almost perfect except for one thing. It need a simple check valve at the bottom of the jar to prevent back flow when the pump is shut off and the filter pulled out. If you were to barrow the top from a "aquarium sand vacuum tube" the type that has the plastic check valve where the hose hooks up at one end and the tube at the other. If you were to borrow that end cap and stick it on the right size bottom of the plastic bottle DIY internal filter as shown, black water back wash spills would not happen and the filter and power head could be pulled out intact. Now I’m thinking of utilizing my power heads this way also if I can come up with a cheap flapper check valve for the bottom, no more spills.
Your plastic internal canister filter is an awesome idea, it just needs a way to hold the dirt in when removed, a flapper valve as simple as a piece of rubber inside a screw on jar lid upside down might be the answer.
 
yea gunner man, good point!!! but most of the time like no major debris comes out; its all broken down through all the channels in the filter. i think the bacterium on the media breaks alot of the debris down quickly, so debris is'nt too big of a problem unless i overfeed. :y220d:

sometimes alot of debris comes out when i unplug the powerhead, but what i usually do is just take out the filter first then vacuum clean the bottom where the debris goes!!!

or if remember to, i just stick a bucket inside the tank and then put it under the filter. then i switch off the power and presto, no debris gets to pollute the tank!!! :thumbsup:

tell you the truth though, ive been thinking along the same lines. i like the eheim pre-filter module. i could run that to soem bulkhead at the bottom and then just, you know, use 1/2" tubing from home depot to plumb the thing. :evil_lol:

i also laid plans for a diy above tank sump filter using the pump i got now, but we'll see how money i got to spend on the thing. it'd be same style as a sewer system really.:hitting:

i know how to build a sump beneath the tank, but i got a worry that my landlady would kick my *** if the power went out while im at work or class and the tank overflows... not good.

but when i'm a college student just trying to survive the ordeal, it makes money tight. we'll see what i come up with i few weeks.:popcorn:
 
fwiffo said:
i know how to build a sump beneath the tank, but i got a worry that my landlady would kick my *** if the power went out while im at work or class and the tank overflows... not good.

but when i'm a college student just trying to survive the ordeal, it makes money tight. we'll see what i come up with i few weeks.:popcorn:
Click to expand...
Have you ever considered adding a simple water craft 12v bilge pump (about the size of disconnect valve) at the level just before overflow which would carry water back to the tank each time the built in flood switch was activated. I had one on my personal water craft and the thing was powerful and tiny and could pump water like crazy when flood water hit its switch and only cost about $15. I have been thinking about making a container under my stand to house my canisters so that if a spill occurs the water in the contaminant would never flood over the 4 inch lip because the bilge pump would kick in I believe they are rated in GPM not GPH like 30 gallons per minute. Anyway its a relativly cheap idea when you consider flood damage.
 
CWO4GUNNER said:
Have you ever considered adding a simple water craft 12v bilge pump (about the size of disconnect valve) at the level just before overflow which would carry water back to the tank each time the built in flood switch was activated. I had one on my personal water craft and the thing was powerful and tiny and could pump water like crazy when flood water hit its switch and only cost about $15. I have been thinking about making a container under my stand to house my canisters so that if a spill occurs the water in the contaminant would never flood over the 4 inch lip because the bilge pump would kick in I believe they are rated in GPM not GPH like 30 gallons per minute. Anyway its a relativly cheap idea when you consider flood damage.
Click to expand...

i never even knew about that. makes sense though. wonder if it will work in a power failure though- maybe they make one that is battery operated. anyway, there is a store near me called west marine on the boulevard. sometime soon i'll go inside the store and see what is offerred in the way of bilge pumps. it is wroth checking out though! good idea!
 
thats sweet gunner!!! that pump at $19.99 is really powerful!

i'll see where i stand in a few weeks and then maybe make a swing for a bigger filter and the bilge pump.

i'd like a bigger tank though; the fish tank is only a 15 gallon and a pet shop near me has a dollar per gallon sale running in winter. a 29 gallon would be perfect.

if i can get that, i'll run this filter along with the internal wet/dry canister i built.
 
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