Odyssea CFS 500 Can-filter review and circumference modification

I have 2 Mag 350 on my Oscar 60 tank, also with a layer of Poly Batting under the Blue-bond sock. Because the Mag 350 provides very little clearance between the canister wall and strainer for 2 layers, I have to use the stronger blue-bond sock to hold the flimsier Poly-batting sock in place. Its also important to cover with Poly-batting the small black bypass strainer on the top of the center intake strainer of the Mag 350. Ill also be keeping my 2 Mag 350's even though they are distant 3rd place behind the FX5 and only half as capable as a modified CFS500, the Mag 350 is still a great circumference filter with about 180 SI surface area.

Depending on whats needed on the Mag 350 I would not let them sit busted even if I had to cannibalize parts to make 1 run.
 
At 1200 gph you might run into issues pulling the debris clean threw sponge/batting in itsy bitsy pieces causing a "cloudy" look to your water. Hard to say without testing. They do make a cfs 700 which appears to have the same footprint but a taller canister and I think it might have a 9 watt uv.
 
Because of the 4X increased surface area an increase in GPH by even 3X (manufactured labeled 1500 GPH equivalent) would be insignificant. The testing conducted so far already supports this becasue what were talking about here is just the math like trying to figure out size sprocket on a motorcycle will affect a give gear's RPM, but the bike is not going to start blowing blue smoke. The Ocean Clear has about the same surface area and it can easily handle manufacture rated pumps as high as 2400 GPH and it doesn't blow out bits. Your describing the disintegration of media due to age on high pressure systems like RO where the membrane starts to fail due to age and over saturation which takes a long long time. Remember just becasue a specific GPH like 1200 is represented visually as having forceful flow and current exiting in a hose that only allows 1 inch of surface area to pass water, doesn't mean that the same 1200 GPH flow and current when directed through a manifold with 200 to 300 one inch hoses will have the same force, current even though it will have the same GPH. This is the engineering concept and elementary hydraulic theory behind circumference filter design and why it has survived over 100 years of use in industry without fundamental change till this day.
:wall:
 
I fully intend to get both the Mag's functioning again.

the canister is broke on one of them, so i'll need a new one (tab that holds the clasp broke)

the other just hasn't worked right from the start, i have a feeling the impeller is shot.

I'm going to rip them both apart this weekend and get one of them fully functional again.

I'll be following your suggestions on stuffing the mag 350 :)

Mike
 
rithunder916 said:
I fully intend to get both the Mag's functioning again.

the canister is broke on one of them, so i'll need a new one (tab that holds the clasp broke)

the other just hasn't worked right from the start, i have a feeling the impeller is shot.

I'm going to rip them both apart this weekend and get one of them fully functional again.

I'll be following your suggestions on stuffing the mag 350 :)

Mike
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On the Mag 350 clasp are broken becasue some other users prematurely try to lock it into place or use it as a cam to force the lid down. Before clasping down the lid always make sure the Oring is in position between the canister body and lid evenly and not pinched, then manually press the lid down all the way until completely seated and while holding it in the fully seated position, engage each clasp. Conversely when removing the lid first compress the lid manually to relieve pressure on the clasps and while holding that position unsnap each clasp. The clasp are strong but are made for holding only not compressing or to cam the lid on and off.

Lid hardware on all canisters are the most misused and the number 1 cause of failure, I know becasue I have done it even knowing better by being in a hurry. Basically on all canisters you should take gingerly time and never use the clasp, clamps, or dogs on a lid to compress or hold the pressure while being installed or removed. Your hands should take all the pressure and do all the work, one to hold down the lid and take the pressure off while the other hand works the clamps, clasp, or dogs ON/OFF.

I wish you lived in town Id gladly try and fix the other one.
 
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yea, this particular canister was rather abused by its former owner. I was given it for free, as it was not "functioning"

After cleaning it out, and opening it all up, i noticed that the impeller was caked in so much crap that it could barely spin, and it worked wonders until the clasp broke.

I normally am very careful with my equipment seeing that i don't make much money and need to keep them all running for as long as possible.

What i have had good luck with, is using a bit of Vaseline on the o-ring to make it compress easier, and come apart easier. I haven't noticed any adverse effects since doing this on all my canisters.

I have a fluval 304 i need to do something with, so i'm planning on trying to mod it similar to your 404. depending on how it goes, i'll probably share it with everyone.

Of course, if I run into issues getting one of the mag's running, I'll probably PM you, as you seem to know quite a bit about them, and hopefully can assist!

Thanks!
Mike
 
I have heard and believe some that bought earlier CFS500 models did not come with a black 2nd sponge encapsulating the pump/impeller housing and instead came with bio-balls which means there is no way to prevent bypass around the pump housing if you decided to trim the top sponge for better 360 filtration. Very little benefit with Bio balls other then a spacer becasue the tank itself and all its content is responsible for about 90% of all bio filtration. Bio-filtering and there associated pre-packaged retail media being sold much more for their retail marketing tool value then anything else.

For those that may have only one white top sponge and want to do my MOD, all you need to do is remove the bullhead plug and cord which then allows the motor housing to be removed from the canister. Then with a new bottom sponge block to replace the bio-balls you have the room to trace out with a sharpie the housing silhouette and cut a sealing section of sponge out that allows the motor/impeller housing to snugly fit inside a bottom sponge just like recent models. So that it will be possible to have 360 sponge exposure for the 300 SI surface area filtration. Otherwise it remains at about 80 SI with much less potential filtration capacity and some diminished bypass at the pump housing with those bio-balls.
 
I got one for Christmas :)

Unfortunately it looks like the hoses(green plastic) they come with look like total junk and don't even seem to be a big enough diameter. Has anyone else had this experience?
 
verbal said:
I got one for Christmas :)

hoses(green plastic) they come with look like total junk Has anyone else had this experience?
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All you have to do is read a few post back as well as post as the answer is there. But if you insist and cant wait go to Lowe’s or HD hose real rack and pay $3 a foot for something that looks less like total junk IYO
:idea:
 
verbal said:
I got one for Christmas :)

Unfortunately it looks like the hoses(green plastic) they come with look like total junk and don't even seem to be a big enough diameter. Has anyone else had this experience?
Click to expand...

if the hose dia looks too snug to fit over.. try warming the end of the hose in hot water( I use hot tap water)..this will allow the tubing to become more pliable
 
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