my 10# lasts about a year. I recently changed to a more efficient regulator and expect to get some more life out of it.
Where did you buy/refill your pressurized CO2?
- Thread starter standardbyker63
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Sigrid, I'm not experienced yet in using pressurized CO2 as this will be my first application in an aquarium. So I really don't have any knowledge of the regulator you're referring to. Perhaps some one with more experience could chime in? From what I've read about regulators, it seems that the biggest problem is keeping a consistent flow through the needle valve. Cheaper units tend to fluctuate a lot more than more expensive types? I think I'm going to go a head and bite the bullet and spend the cash for the AquariumPlants.com electronic regulator. I've read a lot of good things about it and I like the engineering approach to solving what seems to be the common problems for aquarium CO2 injection.
In regards to the drop checker solution, I just use the solution that came with my drop checker. It's the same stuff that comes with any drop checker I think. Not real sure on the chemical name. 4DKH? Can't remember. Blue=not enough CO2, Green=enough CO2, Yellow=too much CO2.
In regards to the drop checker solution, I just use the solution that came with my drop checker. It's the same stuff that comes with any drop checker I think. Not real sure on the chemical name. 4DKH? Can't remember. Blue=not enough CO2, Green=enough CO2, Yellow=too much CO2.
If i might make a suggestion. Coach is selling a duel stage regulator for i guess 80 dollars which is an amazing price. That's a whole lot better then the regulator you're looking at.
If i were you i would either build my own and if you need some help i would be more than happy to help. Also Leftc is a regulator guru and has lots of posts all over the web on how to build one.
Thanks Rockhoe14er. I guess I'll have to take a look around. What draws me to the electronic regulator produced by AquariumPlants is the "set and forget" technology that comes about due to it using an electronic valve that opens and closes to release the gas as opposed to a needle valve. But like I said, I don't have any experience in this field yet. All I know is what I can read, so I've been trying to do as much research as possible. Thanks for the heads-up. I'll look into it and keep researching!
Thanks,
Brandon
Thanks,
Brandon
yeah what you're talking about is a solinoid. I believe that is also on the regulator that coach is selling. This is what i use too because i don't have to do anything to my co2. It turns on an hour before my lights come on and turns off an hour before my lights turn off. Solinoids make like so much easier in the world of co2. You have more time to enjoy your tank instead of having to fiddle with it all the time and the plants will love you for it.
My local welding supply houses wanted me to LEASE one of their tanks 100.00 a year + refill charges. Well I had my own cylinder.
So I got a tip from another welding supply house they told me to call the local fire extinguisher refill company. So I did and they also refill Co2 and for a 5lb it cost 14.75
So I got a tip from another welding supply house they told me to call the local fire extinguisher refill company. So I did and they also refill Co2 and for a 5lb it cost 14.75
Sigrid, do not use tank water in your co2 indicater. You should make a solution of 4 dkh water by starting with distilled water. Add a tiny amount of baking soda and test with your kh test kit. Adjust by adding more water or baking soda until you reach 4 dkh. Add that solution to your indicater as well as a few drops of PH test solution,(methylene blue). This solution will turn green when you reach 30 PPM.
If you use tank water there are other chemicals in the water that will affect the reading and you have no gaurantee that the water in the tank is 4 dkh. If it is 5 dkh for instance then it is at 40 ppm when it turns green and you will be approaching dangerous levels of gas in the water.
If you use tank water there are other chemicals in the water that will affect the reading and you have no gaurantee that the water in the tank is 4 dkh. If it is 5 dkh for instance then it is at 40 ppm when it turns green and you will be approaching dangerous levels of gas in the water.
prober,
Good point - I will definitely check this out with the new Dupla company owners in Germany.
Good point - I will definitely check this out with the new Dupla company owners in Germany.
