Thank you for efforts and answers!
I think we can safely say your water is ridiculously acidic and soft (find out for sure on softness when the good tests come though). Usually we say a stable but not "optimal" pH is best but yours is SO low I think you need to intervene or maybe keep black water species. If you wanted to consider keeping fish suited for your water instead of changing your water (my usual recommendation) than you would want to find out exactly what your pH is because not much will do well below 5.5 and you run into issues will bacteria going dormant etc. Personally I think keeping fish is those extremes is better left to seasoned hobbyists but wanted to put that option out there for you.
Let's assume you still want to increase pH then. Ways to do that is with crushed coral, dolomite, baking soda, limestone and bottled chemicals etc. I do not suggest using bottled products and most will agree. I have never personally had to raise my pH but if I did have to I would like use crushed coral, either in a mesh bag in the filter or in my substrate and do smaller water changes more often to avoid big pH swings during a WC. You can also treat the water before adding it to tank in a bucket or barrel.
Another option is to buy water from a local fish store. If you pay for water at home anyways then this is not a bad option. No fussing with water chemistry just have to lug water around.
Also if you do a high ph test, and others, on your work tap water then maybe you can just use that! Might want to ask someone first or not.
Glad to hear you've read the cycling thread. How do you intend to cycle the tank now?I added the safe start plus and the 4 plattys. I hadn't had fish in quite a few years but they all survived my not very well informed self. I read the cycling tread after my fish died.
Also glad to hear your getting more liquid test kits AND keeping a logbook, awesome!I checked the others 2 days ago. ammonia was at 1ppm (has been fluctuating even after the fish died), nitrite is just starting to change color so 0-0.25 ppm and nitrate is 0. Test strips for GH & KH. GH 30 and KH 80. I am getting the liquid GH & KH test today. I have made a log book for all of my results since I have started to become more informed.
Great, we know the test kit works, may not be the results we want but one thing eliminated! What do you mean by "don't get water from tap to test tube"?So here are the tests as of today. I think my tank is bananas
PH
I grabbed a water sample from work (Far right), let a cup of water from the tap sit a few minutes then took a sample in the middle (facepalm don't get water from tap to test tube), far left is from my tank.
You are trying to cycle the tank so why do the 50% change because you have ammonia? (when no fish are present) You need the ammonia in there to feed the bacteria. Strips are notoriously incorrect so I am not surprised by different results over a couple days BUT they give us a good baseline of the craziness that is your tap water. So to confirm, your tank is bananas. But we can fix it!Used the test strips for my GH and KH. Not sure what happened between 2 days ago and today.
Liquid tests
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5
Ammonia was 2ppm again today did a 50% wc
I think we can safely say your water is ridiculously acidic and soft (find out for sure on softness when the good tests come though). Usually we say a stable but not "optimal" pH is best but yours is SO low I think you need to intervene or maybe keep black water species. If you wanted to consider keeping fish suited for your water instead of changing your water (my usual recommendation) than you would want to find out exactly what your pH is because not much will do well below 5.5 and you run into issues will bacteria going dormant etc. Personally I think keeping fish is those extremes is better left to seasoned hobbyists but wanted to put that option out there for you.
Let's assume you still want to increase pH then. Ways to do that is with crushed coral, dolomite, baking soda, limestone and bottled chemicals etc. I do not suggest using bottled products and most will agree. I have never personally had to raise my pH but if I did have to I would like use crushed coral, either in a mesh bag in the filter or in my substrate and do smaller water changes more often to avoid big pH swings during a WC. You can also treat the water before adding it to tank in a bucket or barrel.
Another option is to buy water from a local fish store. If you pay for water at home anyways then this is not a bad option. No fussing with water chemistry just have to lug water around.
Also if you do a high ph test, and others, on your work tap water then maybe you can just use that! Might want to ask someone first or not.