Is it possible to humanely place two dwarf gourami in a 10 gallon planted tank?

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nellafantasia

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So where is "so there"? I'm not sure why you're both agreeing with me & dis'ing me at the same time... I'm old & don't understand what you mean...Explain please....
I was not dis'ing you at all. I was just sort of exclaiming that I had made a decision. Finally. I want to enjoy a powder blue dwarf gourami. I have accepted that I will have to keep it at only one DG. You tried to tell me that from the start. Everyone who seems to know anything about these beautiful little fish is of the same mind. You all stress how unlikely it will be to keep more than one with out them fighting big time! Unless the tank is at LEAST 40g!!

I remain impressed by how much you and others on this website know about keeping aquaria. (I was a Latin student so I like using the Latin plurals for things. :))

Every time I see you reference your agedness I wonder, "Is he in his 80's, 90's? I bet you are not much older than me. Most people think I am in my 50's but I will be 72 next month. Each day is a gift. I have heard it said, "Do not regret growing old. It is a privilege denied to many,"
 
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fishorama

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Well, thanks. Many of us here on AC have kept fish for many years, we have for ~40 years (as adults, neither had fish as children). So although I'm "only" in my early 60s, in "aquaria years", I consider myself an old timer, lol. The changes in equipment & fish available in our hobby has be a long term learning, but rewarding, experience. I'm cheap (frugal), so I don't rush to try the latest tech if I have stuff that still works well for me...I no longer want to keep 10 tanks or change tons of water every week.

I applaud your decision to have 1 DG. I suggest cardinals over neons for their preferred temps &, to me, cardinals are prettier. Start by "cycling" your tank with ammonia (explained at the top of this newbie forum).

Also try to learn what makes for choosing healthy fish. You want to look for several things: No very frayed fins, no white salt-like speckles on body or fins, no whitish or reddish masses anywhere. In tetras look for a less than straight red or blue line. Some of those disease signs are treatable (at added expense); some are not treatable at all. Shop around if you can before you actually purchase fish.

And please keep us updated with pics as you go! Good luck!
 

the loach

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Please tell me what you think of the API Fresh Water Test Kit. I have used it to read the pH of my 10 gallon in an ammonia spike. I am disappointed in that this kit does not seem very precise at all. I thought it would provide readings easier to identify. I first used the "high pH" drops which were not distinguishable enough to take a reading. It was a non-descript color not near any of the chart colors. Then I have used the regular pH drops. All it shows is that the pH is 7.6 or above. That is not much help at all. I actually think the dipsticks are more informative. Geesh! What a disappointment.
Not used the API one but in general the low/high pH drop test is pretty good.
Try again and post a picture?
 

nellafantasia

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Are you adding ammonia for the cycle?
Should I be adding ammonia even though my tank is already at 3ppm of ammonia? All I did was add some hornwort from another tank and added flake food two days in a row. 7 days later I have 3ppm of ammonia. So should I be adding ammonia too? Thanks for your suggestions.
 

Amicus

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Thank you very much for your response. I am glad to know that about what will happed in a 10g tank with two dwarf gourami. I am not going to do that to them. I will wait until I get a bigger tank before having gourami again.

However, I have discovered a larger issue. I now have a home with well water. Delicious for humans BUT ….. I set up the tank with hornwort, rocks and a large driftwood piece. No fish yet. After 24 hrs did a dipstick test ( API test kit is coming soon.) The pH and hardness were off the chart. I am not sure what to do at this point. Can you recommend a thread here that addresses the issue of hard well water and how to prepare it for use in an aquarium? If it is possible at all?
I have rather hard water and always fill all of my aquariums with bottled spring water. Even the 100G. It's always worked well for me.
Bottled Spring water in almost all cases has a pH of 7.
 
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nellafantasia

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I have rather hard water and always fill all of my aquariums with bottled spring water. Even the 100G. It's always worked well for me.
Bottled Spring water in almost all cases has a pH of 7.
My tank at last check with the API kit showed an ammonia level of 3ppm. Should I still be adding additional ammonia? Thank you in advance for any recommendations.
 

nellafantasia

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I am happy to say that I now have an ammonia reading of 3ppm and nitrites at 0.25ppm. So that means I am moving into stage 2. Yes??? Yay!!!!
 
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Amicus

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well done! I personally have never used test kits, I've kept fish for 10 years and never had a mass die off. I use filter media from existing stable aquariums and plant all of my aquariums with fast growing aquarium plants which in nearly all cases have established bacteria colonies on them. Those things will instantly cycle your aquarium. Most people will steadfastly maintain that you must do your chemical tests, and they certainly can be very helpful,, but just as importantly, research your fish, their needs, establish a bacteria colony, maintain a rational bioload and keep an eye on your fish and water. with these things in balance you will establish a neat little ecosystem in your aquarium.
I've always preferred to be a fish keeper rather than a technician.
Enjoy your aquarium. Cheers!
 
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fishorama

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I have had the best cycling outcome using 2ppm ammonia when I didn't have a healthy tank's filter media to help. But yes, you're getting there if you have nitrite...a few more weeks & some more water changes. It's a necessary PITA.

Plants can help but only if you have a TON of them (wall to wall, not just 1 or 3) can you skip this step...& only if you add only a fish or 3 at a time. But every single time you add new fish to your tank you risk introducing diseases. For preference I like to quarantine new fish if I can. But at least plan to get all of a species at 1 time in a small tank.

pH doesn't effect cycling much...you can cycle a tank at any pH.
 
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nellafantasia

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Do the rough edges of fake wood (resin I guess) cause fish to injure themselves when they brush against it?? I like driftwood but I learned that I don't care for the color of the tannins in fish tanks. I want to fasten java fern on it.
 
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