Water Changes?

[Rbishop]

I lean towards the increased activity due to slight temp variations, especially if cooler and the currents stirring up stuff and the fish are in somewhat of a feeding mode. Their activity calms down quick quickly, longer than an osmotic adjustment could even be made to have it be pH shock.

 

[napalmlieu]

Hello All,
Had an interesting discussion with the owner of Ocean Aquarium (freshwater tanks) in San Francisco about water changes. He considers them not only unnecessary but also a bad idea, citing the harm done to fish by subjecting them to the Bay Area's high level ph tapwater on a regular basis. He also points out that ammonia is far more toxic to fish at higher ph levels, having a less desireable ammonia/ammonium ratio. As evidence he cites local retail fish stores that have gone out of business in past years due to increases in tapwater ph from the Bay Area all the way up to Sacramemto. The health and vibrant appearance of his 100+ tanks are further proof that this theory can be made to work.
At Ocean Aquarium the plants are nourished through root tabs placed in a sand or gravel substrate, thereby avoiding the need to "reset" tank nutrient levels through the periodic water changes practiced by those of us who use EI or a similar dosing method. If one were to keep a closer eye on nutrient levels, however, and adjust our dosing routine as needed to avoid excessive levels, then perhaps regular large water changes might not be needed.. Only the small amount of tank water used for regular filter media rinsing would need to be replaced.
Does this seem valid?

You should only take 25- to 50% of water out, and really, you should check the PH of your tap water.

 

[FreshyFresh]

You should only take 25- to 50% of water out.....

Why is that? Some bio loads require much more water volume than that with no ill effects.

 

[qwe123]

I will be doing a long term experiment with a few partners on the effects on water quality in a low tech, planted system with potting soil. Other than nitrogen, TDS, GH, and KH, is there anything else you think we should keep an eye on?

 

[p0tluck]

could someone PLEASE for the love of fish, explain to me if i am doing this the way i am supposed to , and why my nitrates are still 60 ppm (after 2 years ), ii am frankly getting contradicting stories from everyone except my LFS whom said stop worrying about nitrates as well as a few other people.

i have 15 fish total in a 55 gallon, i am running 14.5 turnover rate filtration , thick chunky gravel ii am working on changing to fiiner crushed
ammonia is always 0
nitrite is always 0
ph is always 7.5
nitrates are always 60-70
My water source has <5ppm nitrate

on monday i vacuum 33% of my gravel which i vac very thoroughly which drains approx 15% of my water , i then lightly vac the rest of the gravel which removes another 10 - 15% of the water equaling about 25-30% water (removed) .

i do this same exact process on thursday

so adding them up i do 66% of my gravel bed and remove and re add approx 60% reconditioned water every week

how am i still at 60ppm nitrate everytime i test.

 

[tackful]

Have you actually tested the tap water yourself, or are you relying on published data? If the later, then it is possible that you have a bad test kit(s). My tank once tested 60-80 ppm N with an expired kit, 0 with a new one.

 

[p0tluck]

Have you actually tested the tap water yourself, or are you relying on published data? If the later, then it is possible that you have a bad test kit(s). My tank once tested 60-80 ppm N with an expired kit, 0 with a new one.

i am testing the tap water, we have a bran new waterplant where i live , like water costs so much money its rediculous , its sub 5 ppm, i know its not zero cause when i had it checked at the lfs it was the same reading as mine well it read a little less than mine

 

[p0tluck]

my tank has been established for 2+ years

 

[napalmlieu]

It depends on the amount of the bio-load, filter, and tank size. (that is, according to my belief) For my 10 gallon, i mostly take out 15 to 30%. For larger tanks, i recommend doing 25 to 50%.
To answer your question, i'll explain, with facts.

• Much improved growth rates are reported where very frequent water changes have been carried out.
  
• You clean your entire tank, removing algae, and food that has been hidden in your fake or real plants.

 

[p0tluck]

It depends on the amount of the bio-load, filter, and tank size. (that is, according to my belief) For my 10 gallon, i mostly take out 15 to 30%. For larger tanks, i recommend doing 25 to 50%.
To answer your question, i'll explain, with facts.

• Much improved growth rates are reported where very frequent water changes have been carried out.
  
• You clean your entire tank, removing algae, and food that has been hidden in your fake or real plants.

so i am taking out 25-30 % twice a week , when you say 25-30 % you mean water right because from everything i read your gravel holds everything and your filter not the actual water, this is where i think some things have to be explained better, i do remove 25-30% water twice a week so 50-60% weekly, but no one talks about how much gravel vacuuming should be done, i do 66% weekly to leave the other 33% alone so i dont crash my bio bed. some people never vacuum their gravel and only do straight water change i dont get it, 25-30% does that include vacuuming the gravel and if so how much gravel? am i doing to much gravel at 66% weekly?
tto much water at 50-60% weekly?