I just did a 50% WC will treat for ich again I guess. But this time for a longer period than 3 days. Also my heater doesn't have a temperature control to change the temp. Thanks
New to aquarium keeping.
- Thread starter Jim Adams
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Even if the heater does have a temperature dial on it, you still need a thermometer to measure water temp.
Like said, the best way to treat ich is raise the water temp to as high as your fish will tolerate, increase aeration to compensate for the higher water temp, feed less during this time period and do large water changes daily.
Like said, the best way to treat ich is raise the water temp to as high as your fish will tolerate, increase aeration to compensate for the higher water temp, feed less during this time period and do large water changes daily.
Shimmying can be from several things including ammonia or nitrites. I'd suggest just doing big, 50%+, water changes as often as you can, daily is optimal. Go with dechlorinator & maybe the ammonia treatment but aloe can "gunk up" gills IMO. There are no fish that live where aloe vera does (it's a desert plant), so the whole "natural product" thing is moot.
I hear you on seeing tiny white specks, ahem, I'm of a "certain age" & need to take off my glasses to see clearly sometimes. But I can usually see ich "salt grains" on fish...It's stressful to fish to treat for a disease they might not have. I'd go with lots of clean water until you know for sure what you might be treating.
Is there any sign of "flashing" (rubbing or dashing against substrate or rocks)? It's how fish scratch an itch, also a sign of ich, but not definitive.
I hear you on seeing tiny white specks, ahem, I'm of a "certain age" & need to take off my glasses to see clearly sometimes. But I can usually see ich "salt grains" on fish...It's stressful to fish to treat for a disease they might not have. I'd go with lots of clean water until you know for sure what you might be treating.
Is there any sign of "flashing" (rubbing or dashing against substrate or rocks)? It's how fish scratch an itch, also a sign of ich, but not definitive.
You should be able to lightly hover the gravel vac over the sand substrate. Just be slow and patient.
As mentioned, frequent water changes are the best thing you can do until the tank completes it's cycle. The shimmying behavior may be due to elevated nitrites, again, water changes...
btw, most of those additives don't do much. You're also using two products that do the same thing. The Ammonia Remover and the Start Right are redundant. Just use one or the other.
The Stess Zyme and Easy Balance...I never use this stuff. I keep it simple and just use water with dechlorinator.
I'd also put the plants back in. They uptake ammonia and help purify the water.
I also agree your water is not too hard. It's likely the same parameters as the water in the Fish store!
As mentioned, frequent water changes are the best thing you can do until the tank completes it's cycle. The shimmying behavior may be due to elevated nitrites, again, water changes...
btw, most of those additives don't do much. You're also using two products that do the same thing. The Ammonia Remover and the Start Right are redundant. Just use one or the other.
The Stess Zyme and Easy Balance...I never use this stuff. I keep it simple and just use water with dechlorinator.
I'd also put the plants back in. They uptake ammonia and help purify the water.
I also agree your water is not too hard. It's likely the same parameters as the water in the Fish store!
Thanks. I did move the heater a little higher in the tank and the temp. has risen 4 degrees to around 81 degrees. I have 2 thermometers. A stick on that's on the outside glass and a glass 1 that goes on the inside the tank just to cover my bases. I've treated for ich 3 days in a row and completed 3 50% WC's. Aeration is at the max. for my air pump. Will decrease feedings but they seem to be hungry.
Thanks. I will vacuum as you suggest and eliminate a couple of the redundant products.The plants were plastic and had no beneficial effects for the tank. I figured the fish could use the space.
LOL. True about the aloe. Never thought about it that way. Yes I wear bi-focals and still have to take them off to read labels. I've done 2 50% WC's and am giving them the day off from the stress of the ordeal. Will do another 50% WC tomorrow and stop the ich treatments for now and put my carbon filters back in. No I haven't noticed them rubbing up against anything. What about adding aquarium salt? What do you recommend for food? I'm feeding them Tetra brand TetraMin flakes. Please keep in mind I live in Missouri In a town Of 79,000. My shopping choices are limited to PetSmart, Petco, and Wal-Mart. Unless I drive 50 miles south to Kansas City. I haven't been able to get the ammonia test kit yet. I'm a little low on funds at the moment. But as soon as I can I will have it. Thanks for your help.
Adding a little salt can be helpful in this case. Since you have already treated for ick chemically, I would not do the maximum dose of salt, however.
But, adding a teaspoon per gallon next water change could help some with healing and discouraging a further ick outbreak.
Tetra flakes are fine. Your fish are not fussy eaters.
To add viariety If you can find them, Bug bites are a great addition to small fishes diets. You can always order it on Amazon. Or, if your fish store has frozen foods, try some baby brine shrimp. The fish will go nuts for them.
But, adding a teaspoon per gallon next water change could help some with healing and discouraging a further ick outbreak.
Tetra flakes are fine. Your fish are not fussy eaters.
To add viariety If you can find them, Bug bites are a great addition to small fishes diets. You can always order it on Amazon. Or, if your fish store has frozen foods, try some baby brine shrimp. The fish will go nuts for them.
Next time you need flake food, Omega Super Color flakes are a bit better & readily available but Tetra is ok. Others may not be, read the labels (with or without your glasses on, ha!). You want fish, seafoods or plant food like spirulina as the first 3 or so ingredients. Not wheat, rice etc., they're just fillers or binders.
I treat salt like it's a drug, I don't use it unless I know what it's supposed to treat. It can help with "brown blood disease" from high nitrites or as a treatment for ich (not my preferred 1). I almost never use it but table salt is fine if you choose to go there, no need for "aquarium salt". If you use it add it slowly over a few days...& then remove it slowly too.
Water changes are my best advice for now, & a lot of them! Keep a close eye on the fish & tell us what you see on the fish or their behavior. White or red spots or streaks, red gills, flashing or shimmying.
I treat salt like it's a drug, I don't use it unless I know what it's supposed to treat. It can help with "brown blood disease" from high nitrites or as a treatment for ich (not my preferred 1). I almost never use it but table salt is fine if you choose to go there, no need for "aquarium salt". If you use it add it slowly over a few days...& then remove it slowly too.
Water changes are my best advice for now, & a lot of them! Keep a close eye on the fish & tell us what you see on the fish or their behavior. White or red spots or streaks, red gills, flashing or shimmying.
I'll try the Omega Super color flakes if I can find them in this area.
Nitrate levels- ppm (mg/L) 20 IN the SAFE range.
Nitrite levels- ppm (mg/L) .5 Caution range
Total Hardness- ppm 300 vary hard
Total Alkalinity- ppm 40 low
pH 7.8 Alkaline range
Water temp. 80 degrees
Fish r acting better after the 3rd 50% WC. I don't see the shimmying I did before. The Glo-Fish r darting around like they're on speed. And the Neon's and Glo-Light tetras r schooling together staying in the same place facing the heater. they are acting pretty mellow. Going to do another 50% WC today to try and get the nitrite levels down to the safe range. Is the PowerHead water pump too much for my little 20 gallon tank. It runs at a rate of 170 GPH And the fish seem to be relieved when I turn it off temporarily.
Damn I hope you will be able to help if I decide to move up to a larger tank. LOL I know its to soon to even think about a larger tank. I need to get this 20 gallon under control. Thanks for all the help from all of you.
Nitrate levels- ppm (mg/L) 20 IN the SAFE range.
Nitrite levels- ppm (mg/L) .5 Caution range
Total Hardness- ppm 300 vary hard
Total Alkalinity- ppm 40 low
pH 7.8 Alkaline range
Water temp. 80 degrees
Fish r acting better after the 3rd 50% WC. I don't see the shimmying I did before. The Glo-Fish r darting around like they're on speed. And the Neon's and Glo-Light tetras r schooling together staying in the same place facing the heater. they are acting pretty mellow. Going to do another 50% WC today to try and get the nitrite levels down to the safe range. Is the PowerHead water pump too much for my little 20 gallon tank. It runs at a rate of 170 GPH And the fish seem to be relieved when I turn it off temporarily.
Damn I hope you will be able to help if I decide to move up to a larger tank. LOL I know its to soon to even think about a larger tank. I need to get this 20 gallon under control. Thanks for all the help from all of you.
