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Glad I could help :)

Have you tried pulling the impeller out and see if it just needs cleaning? Sometimes gunk builds up around them and makes them not want to start back up when you turn them off

mine is because I am lefthanded

Just keep it around 4ppm ...this seems to be a good number and will build a large enough colony of good bacteria to handle most any stocking. I also agree that going over 6ppm can sometimes stall a cycle out so the 3-4ppm mark makes it easier to dose ....after awhile of dosing ammonia you will...

Wow...thats more math than I would have ever set down and try to work out ;) But I say go for it if the cost savings will be that good... And if you do get them keep us posted on how well they work.

I vote black too :)

When dosing any medications to the tank you should remove the carbon . The carbon will soak up the meds and make them less effective. If you have filters with the carbon built in you can cut a small slit across the top to get the carbon out and still be able to use the filter.... then once you...

Glad to hear you got it working :)

Water changes are your friend at this point... Your cycle will adjust itself for the number of fish you have in there now. So keep the number of fish you have now and keep ammonia and nitrites under .25ppm until they both goto 0ppm. Then you will only need to do water changes weekly to keep...

One reason the nitrites are probably high is because at first you were doing a fishless cycle using ammonia..... The nitrites had started getting established as the ammonia was getting consumed so you were in the first stage of the cycle when you added the fish. Now you will need to do water...

I wasnt bashing ... Iam just trying to figure out what would be different as far as test results go with or without fish. Since they stared out with a fishless cycle and didnt like how the test readings looked they got fish and put in thinking it would make the test reading all of a sudden read...

Maybe you need to refresh yourself with how a cycle is suppose to work http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84598 Doing water changes will not stop bacteria from building up in your filter....but having fish in the tank during the cycle means you will have to keep levels safe...

If that is all it is then there should be no problem if it is just the inner lip that the hood sits on.... and if it is just in one spot it shouldnt effect how the hood would go and stay on anyway.

Just make sure if the plastic around the top is cracked that it isnt the center brace (connects both sides together in the middle) or you might have issues with the tank wanting to bow outwards ...if it is just an area other than the center brace alittle epoxy should do the trick.

Do another water change...ammonia will not just magically drop on its own until you have established nitrites. Ammonia levels over 6 are known to kill off good bacteria ,so with the level as high as you have you need to get it down to 4-5ppm so your cycle can even start.

leave the old filter media in there so it will continue to help establish a good bacteria colony.

Moving over all the established media that you can should be good enough so that when you add your fish right in it should be fine...but like you said be sure to do daily tests to be on the safe side as it may take alittle while for the cycle to balance out and you might get some spikes in...

New tank with established media plus fish....would probably cause a bacteria bloom

Was just a guess....might not be what it is that is why I mentioned just to keep testing and be sure levels are safe for the fish. But I have had clear water one day and have a bloom the next after doing a very good deep gravel vac...so could be possible since it is basically a new bigger tank.

Thanks for the update..... Glad to see I have been doing mine right ;)