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Or from the salt brine of Santa Barbara, GH was 24, KH 11, Davis well water? GH 17, KH about 15, Mg++ is about 52ppm within 5ppm error over the year's course. Foul limy stuff. But plants do very well in this tap also, just a few limited species did poorly at such KH's, the GH was independent...

I would find it quite amazing to find anyone that would want to kiss my butt:o If you have common sense and can think and reason through things, I'll like you lots more. :thm: Regards, Tom Barr

I think it's pretty useless, but whoever did it up, put some work into it. I doubt they'd like my assessment:cry: Plant gods are pretty low key:rolleyes: Since you are the OP, I have doubts it's anything to do with Ca++, if it's 30ppm as Ca++, even 10ppm is fine or less. If you do water...

What one nutrient is missing and is 40% or more of the plant's biomass, that is non limiting in terrestrial plants, but very often limiting aquatic plants? What are those nutrient deficiencies based on? Aquatic plants or agricultural crops? Those tables are poor IME, confusing and really hard...

I do not think using the Antibiotics is much of an issue unless the countries prohibit it over the counter. Then you have fewer options. So they can be used in place of the black out, and the post treatment will last about 1-2 months before BGA comes back, or the aquarist has fixed the issues...

Neither test addresses the species genus or species that we have in aquariums FYI. Oscillitoria is the genus and it's non heterocyst forming(non N2 fixing, there's plenty of N for this genus in any aquarium that contains fish, shrimp, plants). These chemicals will decrease growth of BGA, but...

Reviews are mix because they had plant growing issues, did not follow up with good KNO3 dosing. Not everyone reads the rest of the story........ Same for any algae cure, the bottom line is problems with plant growth, not killing algae. Your reference is the algae free good healthy plants, not...

The last line after the last comma should read "the nice clean planted tank examples without algae" Sorry about that Regards, Tom Barr

Search 3 day blackout + KNO3 dosing for a solution that's non antibiotic. Typical ranges are 1 pill per 10 Gal, 2 doses, day 1 and then again on the 3rd day, remove activated carbon, purigen etc. Clean well before, clean filters, water change, remove all you can etc, then add. Also add KNO3 at...

Never be confident of CO2 if you have plant growth issues or algae. The only time I've had GDA stick around was with some slight CO2 issues. I have 5 tanks and had a slight issues with one of them(the solenoid was sticking for the 1st 1-2 hours, then would click on.........to add CO2). When...

Well water is very rich in CO2, this is why it's lower pH. The KH is the same. After a few hours, the pH rises as the rich CO2 degasses, the same thing happens when open a can of beer or soda water, after a few hours, it's flat. Measure the pH and KH, the pH changes, the KH does not in the...

http://www.tropica.com/advising/technical-articles/biology-of-aquatic-plants/co2-and-light.aspx This should answer your question about CO2. Regards, Tom Barr

UV is the best, the second is micron filtration. Daphnia etc can do the job if the light intensity is low, if the light is high, UV/micron filters are about the only way. I'd spend more effort/time there than testing/spending $ on a cheapy UV, after 3-4 days, it'll likely never come back...

Sure, been breeding RCS, CRS and Fire shrimp and use EI dosing which is richer than PMDD, about 3x more so. Sold 200$ worth last month of shrimps. What do you think about the ingredients? Regards, Tom Barr

Algaefix or copper which is all it is............is far more lethal than Excel and offers little to the plants which gets at the root issue why you have algae in the first place. So Excel is a much better choice there. Look at what grows a plant well, then focus more on that, then algae is much...

As I mentioned in the prior post, it's an issue of rate of release, osmocoat does not give off all it's N or Copper or anything all at once, rather, over about 6-8 months time. VERY slowly. And that's the point. Want or need more? Best to simple add KNO3 or use traces etc to the water column...

+1 Ask any glaizer.......sounds nice, but sounds like marketing steer manure to me. Looks like 100% silicone, smells like it etc etc.......even if it is stronger.......you simply do not need it that strong in the first place. Construction and cure time are much more the issue and glass...

I doubt you need to worry much about nutrient dosing in a lower light non CO2 high stock load tank. Adding more however would not cause harm and osmocoat slowly gives off nutrients, not all at once. So there's 2 risk factors that are low concerning N. You might not need more ferts........but...

Nope, if you bury it deep, this should never occur with osmocoat, they are denser than water.........soil and peat particles? This can happen, so if they are inserted to the bottom and you are somewhat careful later, then those are not much issue either. Regards, Tom Barr

Deep as possible on the bottom of the glass is best. NPK or those 3 no# on the box, bag etc are the % of each. General ranges, say 3-1-3, 15-5-15 etc are fine. I've used osmocoat, so have others for decades, see old APD post for older examples. I go about about 5 grams worth per sq ft or so...