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See my response, it's right along this line. I think most of us when we start getting algae in the start, look for reasons as to why it's there, rather than looking at the plant's health. So there's a stronger focus on algae, not the plants. But the plants and their health is really the key...

I've tried a dozen or so things over the years. I often do good sized water changes when there is an issue. Basic stuff, par for the course if there's issues (Even if there ain't any for that matter). During the part of the water change when the plants, wood, rock, glass is exposed, you can add...

I'm not messing with you, just addressing the hypothesis that inoculation is somehow the reason for the issue with algae. You can decide and will all on your own there. Good consistent CO2/Excel dosing + watching and adjusting these based on the plant health, reduced algae new growth. If you...

Well, if you dab it on, specifically to the infested areas during a water change etc, not to the entire tank water, then the same is true for Excel or H202 etc. You do not need to dose much then and it's as selective as your dabbing it is. A small amount of Excel is not going to harm vals or...

Prime and all dechlorinators are salt solutions, you dump any salt on BBA and it will kill it. Prime is expensive, H2O2 is not, Excel can be used like this as well, or mix the KNO3 in a paste/concentrate, toothbrush that on there etc, all will kill algae or most small critters if you add enough...

Xmas moss works just fine. Regards, Tom Barr

Because that is simply not the case. How does freshwater algae spread into dry stream beds, puddles that recently form etc? Are you willing to practice sterile technique on all aspects of keeping plants etc? I'm not. Fish, food, air born spores of algae, plants, nets, water from the LFS...

If you fail to follow directions, you end up killing your fish with this product, they have dosing on the bottle and going much above that is not good for livestock. As is the case with copper, dose makes the poison, too much, kills the patient, too little, no effect. Algae is there for a...

Group buys can get the cost to about 200-220 if you get on in one of those, you need 40 units basically. Otherwise, about 300-350$ is typical. The lux meters run 100$. Might as well go with PAR if you spend that much, then rent it out or go in with 2-4 folks and share. Apogee is the best brand...

I think the issue is more competition, not allelopathy. Eg, one plant is very aggressive for CO2 uptake, or NO3 etc...........another is not. It's nothing to do with allelopathy, it's just regular old competition. Simple solutions: 1 Add more ferts 2 Add more CO2 3. Trim the darn weeds! If...

Why would low phosphates be preferred or help vs say high PO4's? I think that piece of outdated advice is an old myth from 1980-1990's. I add 5ppm 3x week of PO4. It's the NH4 that should be low in the sticks and far more care needs to be considered for Jobes, as they are NOT SLOW RELEASE...

Osmocoat has been used by planted aquarist since the 1980's. Lots of use in the past. It's slow release, it's fine to use about 5 grams per sqft or so for most applications. Make sure you have it on the bottom of the glass, then cap with sediment. Last about 6-9 months for most aquarium temps...

This question seems to come up here about once every 2-3 months, perhaps a sticky might be appropriate for repeat questions. I've answered this same question about 20 x over the last decade +. At least 5x here. Regards, Tom Barr

Yes, if you grind up any old plant and put these ground up extracts into a test well with algae, .............. That's NOT the same as allelopathic control of algae in LIVE plants. Such information can be misleading. Ole Pedersen also made a refute to the chapter. There's a simple test you...

www.aquariumfertilizers.com KNO3 will add both K+ and NO3's. Just like NaCl adds Na+ and Cl- to water. Same type of salt bonding. I'd suggest you get 4 things for DIY and then you'll have enough ferts for the next 2-3 years for a few $. KNO3: 2 lbs KH2PO4 1 lb CMS+B: 1lb Gh booster: 2lbs...

Well, the sediment has nutrients in it, that ADA As is loaded. Plants are opoportunistic, they will go after nutrients in either location. Reducing the light reduces the demand for those, so slows things down. I'd dose regularly when you are around. I dose 2-3x a week, have lower light, some...

Reduce the light some, screen, raise the lights etc if possible. Cut by about 1/3 or so. Less light= less CO2= less nutrient demand. If you have enriched sediment, like ADA AS etc, then you also have a back up when you forget to dose. Regards, Tom Barr

Be careful with CO2, reduce the light intensity also. These, much more than nutrients, play a much larger role. Regards, Tom Barr

I guess my question to folks who ask and seem to want to avoid CO2 is do you understand what CO2 enrichment does? It maximizes the use, the plant's ability to use every available watt of light energy. So you get far better growth and you can grow any species easily. You can use less light than...

Small tanks are okay, sort of strange looking, the larger more $$$ fixtures are nice, and some DIY versions can be done with mixed results for some, success for others. I like T5's for now.........till LED's get cheaper and better, and some patent issues run out. Regards, Tom Barr