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With 15w of fluorescent lighting over a 10g tank, you have a very nice low light setup. The addition of Seachem Flourish as a trace mix is great. Seachem Excel is nice as well, but not fully required. You don't need anything else, and adding anything else would probably only cause you problems...

Amano shrimp would eat it. But, cutting down the photoperiod to about 8 hours would most likely eliminate the problem all together without the addition of the shrimp.

Aquariumplants.com's substrate is Soil Master Select. It has a high CEC (cation exchange coefficient) and therefore will strip KH out of the water column. This will result in a drop in pH as well. It is normal when using that substrate. It will continue to drop KH for a year or so. If you want...

Yeah, with amazon swords only, root tabs or osmocote are the way to go.

If you have above a certain amount of light, the lack of additional co2 will result in algae issues. Typically that amount of light is 2 wpg, but it's not as simple as that and if you are in the 1.8 wpg to 2.5 wpg you may or may not need co2 depending on tank size. Tanks with 2 wpg or more...

Yeah, since I don't have any livestock in there yet I've got the co2 jacked up pretty high. I'll have to cut it down once the tank is cycled.

Little update: Aromatica died...RIP. It just didn't survivie the cycling/high co2/soft water...a lot of things, it didn't make it. I did a bit of rearranging. Move the Rotala 'green' over to where the aromatica was. Divided and pushed back the japonica, rearranged a few anubias, and planted...

I suppose I didn't read that very well. I agree with Turbosaurus. Amazon Swords are heavy nutrient feeders. What kind of substrate is it in?

What species?

Yep, pass

I typically do 2-3 drops per second, but about every hour or two I take a glass full of water out of the bucket. The idea there is that, as the bucket fills up, the effect of each new drop lessens, so once I take out a glass full of water, the drops continue the process.

Great post!

Eh, well, for starters you'd probably get more of a response in the Plant forum. But, it really depends on what kind of plants they are and what your setup is. If they are are low light plants going into a low light setup, all you need is a trace mix like Seachem Flourish tossed in once a week...

Well, your 90 definitely has the most potential to take it to the next level. Like others said, I would either add a black background or remove the background entirely. Downside of removing the background is you have to figure out a decent way to hide equipment and wires. My advice still...

Hydrocoytle is fairly boad leafed, but it's much more like a lily than a sword, as in it has a soft stem that won't support a fish. Many crypts are fairly broad leafed. C. Ponterdifolia comes to mind. Anubias barteria and gracillis. Java Fern is decently broad leafed, not quite a sword, but...

Well, let me ask you this: Are you interested in increasing your lighting and adding co2? It looks to me like you have a very nice low light setup. If the plants are growing well, then you probably don't need to dose any fertilizers. At most you might need to dose a trace mix like Seachem...

From the time co2 turns off at night until the time it turns back on in the morning is not enough time to gas off all the co2. This accounts for the discrepancy between your tank measurements and your cup test. Basically, what you are reading sounds about right.

Depends...I assume that you've got high light and co2, hence the dosing question. You may be interested in this: http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_newtank.htm

Pond snails eat plants, so I'd be careful.

Just leave your filter running, it'll clear up in 24 hours. In the future, you can dry plant. It's a lot easier to dry plant and then you don't have to wait for the water to clear up.