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It seems my post was not redacted well. I am planning on the first 4 species listed, and add 1 or 2 of the additional species listed in the same ratio (1m/4f)...Thanks for the info, I think I will stay away from Metriaclima.

Yes, and most of the information I have found is that it is on the difficult side to keep all males. Plus, I enjoy the interaction of harems.

OK the 120g is cycled and ready for fish. I have decided to make this tank an Mbuna tank. These is what I am thinking to add so far: - 6 synodontis multipunctatus The following mbunas in a ratio of 1M/4F - Msobo Deep Magunga (thought of Saaulosi but decided to go with Msobos) - Pseudo Williamsi...

Yes , no more reefs. The hurricane crashed my tank and my big coral colonies and anemones died, it was overwhelming and I don't feel like starting that again. and Thanks for the recommendations. So you would go on a community tang tank over mbunas for the 120? I will look in to you...

Hi, Long time aquarist, I kept cichlids before but for the last two decades I have been keeping planted and reef tanks. Now, I am converting my two reef tanks to Cichlid tanks, and am looking for stocking recommendations for a 250g (72Lx30wx27h) and a standard 120g (48x24x24). I was thinking in...

DO they need current ( power heads) in the tank other than the one the filter makes? I have electric blue, powder blue and electric yellow Thanks

What is the best and most natural way to raise the ph for Electric Yellow African Cichlid? Thanks

DO cichlids need current other than the one made by the filter? I.e. power heads creating currents in the tank

I'm setting up a new freshwater tank for cichlids and I was wondering how long it will take for my tank to cycle? What should I have in the tank during cycling? I read cichilds like a pH of 8.2 what is the best way to keep the pH at this level? Thanks

Not everything growing on LR is good stuff, there are many bad things. How old is your tanks? IF you are just starting (less than 3 months) it is very likely that what you are getting is diatoms (brown algae), it will go away by itself.

SOmetimes they do, it's hard to tell.

Yes. :mad: that sucks. Take care of that ASAP if you have corals, if you dont or dont plan to have coral they might look cool in the tank

I use the back pak 2 and works very very good, I little bit noisy though.

Do you have a refugium? if so, you could put some macroalgae in there to help keeping the nitrates down. If you don't, put some macroalgae carefully in tank, it might expand rapidly so you have to control it so it doesn't ruin your corals. Start using RO water. 10% of 110 would be 11 gallons, so...

That is usually normal during the cycle process, check your ammonia it should be high. Have patience and let the tank cycle for a few weeks before adding anything.

If you do that you kill everything in the live rock (all the good bacteria, coralline algae, hithickers, etc), so there is not point buying live rock. In fact, this will make your cycle longer, there will be more death, more death=more ammonia= longer cycle. There is only a lil bit of death when...

The shrimp is part true, it's to make the cycling start sooner ( I guess you could say that speeds up the cycle). It's gonna made your water really cloudy, and it will clear up. The lights, it depends on what do you want to keep in there. If you stay with the original light system I would...

None. A beginner should never have an anemone, they are very difficult to care for, if the anemone dies it might kill everything in your tank (well maybe not in a 135gal tank, but it's possible) You also need a well established tank for it. So don't even think about getting an anemone until you...

The most important thing is the size of you tank, you need at least 55gal for small eels, and up tp 200 gal for bigger ones.

What size is your tank?