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Yeah could you imagine stocking a dwarf puffer in this tank? He would be in heaven!

This brought a really odd picture in my head :lol2:

The manufacturer's recommended dosage is 5 mL/10 gallons the first day, and then 5 mL/50 gallons daily after that. So 1-2 mL on day 1, and Googling a conversion shows about 20 drops per mL of water, so approximately 5 drops per day after that.

I don't believe there are any ill effects to placing that light directly on the glass hood in terms of heat buildup, and I have read that the glass hoods remove very little light intensity. I am running a similar lighting setup (24" T5 sittng on a glass top over 30" tank) with no problems so...

Could you chase it around with a net a little and see if having him zip around wiggles it loose? Normally I wouldn't recommend undue stress on a fish, but it would be the least invasive way to remove it if it works.

+1 for stealth heaters here. I have three of them running on separate tanks, and the reading on the dial matches the thermometer in each tank +/-1 degree.

Thanks for all the input everyone. I will go ahead and bring up the temp a few degrees over the next 24 hours and keep an eye on everything over the next couple weeks.

**all chemistry, stocking, and relevant tank data I can think of are at the bottom for reference** I have an ich outbreak on four of my diamond tetras. I'm pretty confident in the diagnosis, but i have attached photos for everyone to take a look at. I have researched the ich treatments pretty...

I would have to agree. I feed bloodworms to my white clouds with no problems. It's unbelievable how big a worm they eat sometimes, but they definitely eat them.

Just one shameless weekday bump before I let this one die. Thank you all for the PMs so far.

Congratulations! I would recommend looking up posts about raising fry, but ideally you will need a fry tank up and running to give them the best shot at survival.

I am in the market for an upgraded light on top of my 29 gallon freshwater tank. I currently have the basic 30" 17 watt flourescent light on top, as well as a Coralife Dual Linear Strip T5 2x14 watt 24" light (45 watts total). I am looking for 55 watts or more in one fixture to go over this...

Just a tip. If you need a longer hose, you can buy any 1/2" ID 5/8" OD flexible hose to connect directly to the unit. I got a 50' hose from Home Depot for $15.

I would say that it is a defective unit. I'm sure you can get a replacement, and if you want to look at alternatives, Home Depot has a few different varieties in my neck of the woods.

That's pretty amazing. I haven't ever seen an owl eat anything so big.

I have been looking at a light to best match my 29 gallon lightly planted freshwater and have come up with this: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=9871&rel=1 The light I am looking at is the CD-16981 Freshwater 24" (65 watts 6700k light). As you probably know...

As an addition to parallel vs. series plumbing, having the two filters in series will cause a pressure buildup or vacuum between the two canisters depending on flow. You would probably damage a motor or blow a hose.

I would recommend trolling in general vs. spot fishing. You are more likely to find the fish. I would check out some trolling planks so you can get six lures behind the boat at different depths. Just mix up the lure colors/sizes and the boat speed until you make a connection, and then start...

A related question here for the Fluval canister filter people... The Fluval manual and website recommend tap water on the mechanical filter (sponge) and tank water for the biological filter. Does anyone actually do this or see a benefit to using tap water on the sponge? I'm breaking mine...

Wow... That is pretty funny, but I don't know if I will be able to sleep tonight. 6/10