A question concerning silicate.

AquatiCreations

AquatiCreations

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Feb 25, 2008
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I know there has been some controversy over this subject before.But what is the significance of silicate in the marine aquarium,what to avoid from keeping silicate levels too high,and what do you use to test for it? The reason I ask is that I was told to be successful in keeping stony coral's,my silicate reading should be as low as possible.

Thanks-AC
 
Not just low, silicates should always be 0. Silicates come from using bad water like tap water, or RO and RO/DI water where the filters are long past expiration. Salifert makes a test kit for checking silicates.
 
Ace, Speaking of test kits, is there a complete kit out there for testing everything that needs to be tested. All I ever see are partial kits and then you need to add other single kits to get a complete picture of what is going on. Or is there a lot of tests in a complete kit that are not needed?
 
Unfortunately I have never found that "Perfect package" of test kits. There are the basic ones, the Reef ones, etc, but they all seem to be missing one or two vital tests and have one or two test that are not needed. I finally bit the bullet and just several Salifert test kits for all the things I think you should test for.

In an established tank, I test for Nitrates, Silicates, Iodine, Strontium, Magnesium, Calcium, Alkalinity, and PH. When first starting up a tank you want to test for ammonia and nitrites as well.

IMO Phosphate test kits are worthless unless your only testing freshly mixed water to verify your not putting phosphates into your tank with a waterchange. I always test each bucket of salt I buy for CA, Mg, Phosphates, and Silicates and also test my RO/DI filters with a TDS meter each time I make fresh water. So far, with 7 buckets of Ocean Pure Pro salt under my belt just this year the levels are always good for me, CA between 420-440, Mg between 1400-1500, and Phos/Silicate are zero. TDS on my RO/DI filter as of today is 2.
 
IME, as long as you don't experience bad diatom problems, a bit of silicate is fine and may even be beneficial, since it allows for sponge growth.
 
The key phrase there being "may even be beneficial". I guess the majority of people like some sponges in their tanks, but I am the oddball that hates them because I am "stung" by them on a daily basis cleaning out the live rock bins. When I say stung, I don't mean they come out and sting you, but rather when you flip a rock over that is covered in sponge and you crush the sponge with your fingers the fiberglass type lattice work that makes up a sponge sticks into you and breaks off in your skin and really itches for a while. Give me any other filter feeder in the tank other than sponges and I am happy. I know they are beneficial for keeping water clean and normally are not a bad thing to have, just one of those things that I personally don't care for.
 
Explain to me a little more in-depth why 0 silicate is important for keeping stony corals.
 
Source
Brown Algae (Diatoms) needs light and food (nitrates and silicates) to survive. The cure for Brown Algae is the same as the prevention: Starve it into oblivion.

The silicates the Brown Algae requires can enter your tank through several avenues: Commercial sea salts, tap water used for top offs and make up and the substrate you may have on the bottom of your tank.

If you did absolutely nothing to your tank, the Brown Algae would eventually consume the silicates present and die of starvation. Since you can't do absolutely nothing to your tank, the source of the silicates must be identified and eliminated, in order to get rid of the present brown algae bloom and prevent future outbreaks.
  • Check the source of any builders sand, play sand or other substrate materials in your tank which did not come from the ocean. There is a possibility that they may contain silicates which are leaching into your tank water.
  • Use only RO or RO/DI water whether you purchase an RO/DI unit or purchase RO/DI water from a commercial source.
  • Check to see if your commercial sea salts contain high levels of nitrates. If the salt mixture contains unacceptable nitrates, consider changing mixtures.
Removing the silicates alone from your tank will eliminate the Brown Algae problem. But, as long as you are getting your tank in order, you might as well get used to dealing with nitrates. This would be a good time for you to establish a good tank maintenance routine which includes keeping nitrate levels at a minimum, especially if you plan to have invertebrates and/or a reef tank, which do not tolerate high levels.


Nitrates will always be something to contend with in your tank. For fast, immediate reduction, you can do a water change, using the Instant Nitrate Reduction Method. This will reduce your nitrates at the fastest rate, using the least amount of time and water. This will also get your nitrates down to a workable (10 mg/L area) level but it is only a Bandaid and does nothing to remove the source of the nitrates. Siphon out as much of the Brown Algae as possible. You will probably find that you will have to use several other methods (many of which are part of a good Aquarium Maintenance Routine) to keep your nitrates in check.
  • Use only RO or RO/DI water whether you purchase an RO/DI unit or purchase RO/DI water from a commercial source. (Recommended)
  • Purchase and use Mangrove Plants in your tank or sump. (Recommended)
  • Check to see if your commercial sea salts contain high levels of ammonia/nitrogen.
  • Purchase and use a good "nitrate sponge".
  • Do not overfeed your tank.
  • Siphon uneaten food and other loose material (detritus) from the substrate.
  • Perform periodic water changes.
By reducing the nitrate and silicate levels, your tank will soon be healthy and free of the Brown Algae. Many of your tank occupants (corals and other invertebrates) will also benefit from the reduced levels.
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