Add Flourite to Substrate?

DGalt

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Jun 1, 2008
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Connecticut
I'm going to be converting my 15 gallon tank into a low-light planted tank. I have the light strip coming in the mail along with a couple plants courtesy of rich311k (thanks again rich). Planning on picking up some other plants at the LFS, although not sure what yet.

On to the question though. I currently only have about 2 inches of "natural" gravel in my tank. I've read you want about 3 inches of substrate, so I figured maybe I should add an inch of flourite - couldn't hurt right? But will the plants appreciate enough to make it worth it (I know it's not that expensive)? Do I even need to increase my substrate depth?

Basically I'm just wondering if it's worth the cost before I go out and buy the stuff. I'm not planning on doing a whole lot else in terms of providing nutrients. If the plants aren't doing well I'll look into ferts but I'll cross that bridge if/when I come to it.
 
well it cant hurt really and plants would probably like it (fluorite absorbs firtz to be reliesed to the plants root system). just be sure that you rins it really really well and that you leave it out to dry before you add it to your tank
 
Knowing what I know now, I'd go with Eco Complete (or simple fert tabs) over Flourite. I have 2.5" of Flourite in a planted 55 and have found it to be a pain. It's a pain to vac and compacts.
 
I'm not sure I can say they give no benefit at all, but truthfully I can't see it making much of a difference really. My experience is that the root tabs are the real secret to vigorous growth in heavy root feeding plants.

I'm not a botanist or even an aquatic botanist so of course I don't want to sound like one of those people who talks when they don't know what they're talking about. I just know that from using Flourite, Onyx Sand, and Soilmaster that I noticed no difference from plain sand or good gravel. It was when I started using the root tabs that I noticed a real difference. Oh and CO2 or Excel helps too! And lots of light - more light than we are usually talking about using. I have 6.4WPG in my 20g long and that has also made a real difference. (And no I have no algae issues, I don't run CO2 and I hardly fertilize the water column.)
 
I'm not sure I can say they give no benefit at all, but truthfully I can't see it making much of a difference really. My experience is that the root tabs are the real secret to vigorous growth in heavy root feeding plants.

I'm not a botanist or even an aquatic botanist so of course I don't want to sound like one of those people who talks when they don't know what they're talking about. I just know that from using Flourite, Onyx Sand, and Soilmaster that I noticed no difference from plain sand or good gravel. It was when I started using the root tabs that I noticed a real difference. Oh and CO2 or Excel helps too! And lots of light - more light than we are usually talking about using. I have 6.4WPG in my 20g long and that has also made a real difference. (And no I have no algae issues, I don't run CO2 and I hardly fertilize the water column.)


I'll concede that I have not hard evidence that eco-complete or flourite are any better than simply dosing the water column. I've been running 50/50 SMS/Flourite for a few months, and my plants are doing better, but only slightly. The main thing is that my heavy-iron plants are doing better.

However, I can say that there is little room for the advantages of aquasoil being up for debate.
 
was actually going t state that but realized i'm not completely sure of the advantages of aquasoil (i assume you taking about something like Amazon II). i know that it holds nurtiants but never really tried to find out about what thay where because really it's always been out of my price range.
 
All of those fracted clay substrates are highly porous and therefore they take in the water - which if containing nutrients of course that means those nutrients enter the granules and perhaps the plants' roots can utilize them.

But I take a few issues with it. (And these are only questionable assumptions really, as I am not a scientist with a lab where I can test things.) My main issue is that we don't know how far down into the layer of substrate the constant exchange of water takes place...or even if once the granules are saturated if they have a constant exchange. In other words, if the nutrients aren't reaching deep down to the roots what is the point? And if the nutrients aren't being consistently replenished, then again...what's the point?

And when this stuff is somewhat expensive as proper "aquarium" product (Flourite, Eco Complete, etc) why purchase it when it gives so little benefit? Then there are the cheaper alternatives (Soilmaster, Turface) which are so light in weight that getting the plants to stay rooted is a horrid headache.

A six dollar pack of root tabs and a five dollar 50lbs bag of sand will not only make the plants easier to keep planted, but will provide even more nutrients to the roots.

Here I have spent so much money on those plant substrates - only to add root tabs anyway. Seems fairly obvious to me that it was a waste. All I can really tell you is that the same swords I have had for two years in my 55g have gone through three substrate incarnations. First it was 100% Onyx Sand, then it was a blend of Soilmaster, Eco Complete and Tahitian Moon Sand. Now it is play sand and Tahitian Moon Sand with root tabs. The difference in health, growth and color is drastic since going this third route. And the blyxa aubertii in my asian tank was doing good in the Flourite, but once I added root tabs they took off and look stunning. All the proof I need.

So I guess my final answer is: don't waste your money adding Flourite. Just buy a box of root tabs.
 
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