Algae ID

NewObsession

AC Members
Aug 27, 2007
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Hoping someone can help. Having a bit of an algae issue in my tank. I figure step one to controlling it is knowing WHAT it is.

IMG_0299.jpg IMG_0300.jpg IMG_0301.jpg
 
1. Staghorn- Ammonia + low CO2
2. String- Excess/Limiting nutrients, Bio Filter
3. Hair- Excess/Limiting nutrients, silicates, Bio Filter

Is that 3 suggestions? Or 3 types in the 3 pictures? ( I just assumed its all the same as it all appeared the same to me)
What do you mean by Bio filter?
I was also curious regarding the Excess/Limiting nutrients...
I have done a lot of reading regarding ferts, lighting etc. I understand the concept of excess nutrients contributing to algae. I also understand the concept of lack of a nutrient means the plants quit using up the others, leaving them available for algae. What I was going to ask is..how do you know which it is? When I have algae start appearing, how do I know if I should cut back, or increase the dosae on the ferts?
As far as the "excess" goes, I know if 1 nutrient is lacking, the others are considered "excess" ( which actually falls under the nutrient lacking catagory) but as long there is exess of all the required ferts, is that not what the EI method is based on? Supplying enough required nutrients and then doing a w/c to reset once a week?
 
How long have you been doing the EI method on this tank? I've dealt w/ this type of algae only after a major light / CO2 / or fert upgrade. The usual SAE / shrimp solution doesn't work w/ this thread type algae b/c it moves around too much in the water for the algae eaters to get their mouths on it. Just use a toothbrush and twirl around in it to remove. It's always gone away rather quickly once I got my tank back into balance.

My first guess would be that your phosphates are too high.
 
Well, as much as I would love to take credit... it isn't exactly the EI method, I was simply referencing it in reference to "excess" nutrients. I've been doing the toothbrush thing. works great in some areas, not so much in others. phosphates could be the culprit. How do you fix that? I know they make phosphate removal pads, but I think they also remove nitrates, and both are needed in some quantity in a planted tank..
 
Is that 3 suggestions? Or 3 types in the 3 pictures? ( I just assumed its all the same as it all appeared the same to me)

3 Suggestions. pic 1 and 3 could be the same. (hair Algae)
Pic 2 is a type of thread Algae.

What do you mean by Bio filter?
Water Chemistry filtration- Bio,Mechanical,Chemical. Is your filter restricted or need cleaning?

I was also curious regarding the Excess/Limiting nutrients...
I have done a lot of reading regarding ferts, lighting etc. I understand the concept of excess nutrients contributing to algae. I also understand the concept of lack of a nutrient means the plants quit using up the others, leaving them available for algae. What I was going to ask is..how do you know which it is? When I have algae start appearing, how do I know if I should cut back, or increase the dosae on the ferts?
As far as the "excess" goes, I know if 1 nutrient is lacking, the others are considered "excess" ( which actually falls under the nutrient lacking catagory) but as long there is exess of all the required ferts, is that not what the EI method is based on? Supplying enough required nutrients and then doing a w/c to reset once a week?
Experience..??!! I dunno...Practice I guess would be the best answer.
Filtration, lighting, source water and C02 are other things to consider with these question.
 
Multiple water changes will remove the phosphates. Make sure you vacuum the gravel (I know you don't normally have to do this w/ planted tanks, but you obviously have a build up issue). This'll reset the tank.

The EI method isn't necessarily just about dosing enough nutrients, but maintaining the proper amount of one nutrient, relative to each and every other nutrient. The water change is insurance in case you screwed up a dosing that week. If one nutrient is out of whack, you get algae.

Go buy nitrate and phosphate test kits too. You really need them in order to understand what's really happening w/ your tank. My guess of high phosphates could be entirely wrong anyway.
 
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