Ammonia is 4.0ppm-8.0ppm

Lie

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Sep 13, 2006
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I have done two 50% water changes within' the past 2 days and my Ammonia levels are still at least 4.0ppm. They were at 8.0ppm yesterday. My PH is 7.0, Nitrite is 0ppm and my Nitrate is 5ppm. I added Stress Coat, Salt, and PH Down. I avoided Ammo Lock. My water is clear, fish are eating and visibly healthy. My Leopoldi Angels are fine. And they are supposed to be very sensitive fish. Ammonia levels that high and they would surely be goners.

Anyone have any idea what the hell is going on? I don't know what else I could clean to drop the levels. All the gravel has been cleaned the past 2 days and I do it once a week anyway. I tested about a month ago and my Ammonia was .25ppm. Since then I have added new gravel and some fake driftwood and fake plants. I don't know if that would do anything.
 
Last edited:
Lie said:
I have done two 50% water changes within' the past 2 days and my Ammonia levels are still at least 4.0ppm. They were at 8.0ppm yesterday. My PH is 7.0, Nitrite is 0ppm and my Nitrate is 5ppm. I added Stress Coat, Salt, and PH Down. I avoided Ammo Lock. My water is clear, fish are eating and visibly healthy. My Leopoldi Angels are fine. And they are supposed to be very sensitive fish. Ammonia levels that high and they would surely be goners.

Anyone have any idea what the hell is going on? I don't know what else I could clean to drop the levels. All the gravel has been cleaned the past 2 days and I do it once a week anyway. I tested about a month ago and my Ammonia was .25ppm. Since then I have added new gravel and some fake driftwood and fake plants. I don't know if that would do anything.

1) Stop using all chemicals and salt, only thing you need is a good dechlorinator like prime or bio-safe for the water change.

2) Continue to do 50% water change, measure the ammonia right before and after each change. If it is decreasing then fine, otherwise get a new liquid solution based test kit like the AP master kit.

3) Feed only every other day and very conservatively until ammonia goes down

4) I will let H3D tell you how badly overstocked your tank is.
 
Most fish are wiped out at an ammonia level of 2ppm. What test are you using?
How long has the tank been cycled for?
I know sometimes doing a water change with heavily chlorinated water can wipe out the beneficial bacteria. Does your water supply have chloromine in it?

Frequent water changes and high aeration will help. Other than that I don't know.
 
I use the Freshwater Master Test Kit by Aquarium Pharmaceutical, Inc. I'm getting a lot of people saying I am way overstocked. Some of the fish will be going. In the meantime I am hoping that my tank will adjust to the bioload.
Stop using all the chemicals? Stress Coat has been my conditioner, should I stop using it? And I have been told frequently that aquarium salt helps the immune system of the fish.
The tank has been cycled for over 2 to 3 months.
I don't know how to test for chloromine. My water comes from the tap. But since Stress Coat removes chloramines...I'm guessing I don't have a whole lot.
I have a bubble wall and do about a 30%-50% water change weekly. That better be enough aeration. It's enough work as it is for the water changes.
 
yes keep the dechlorinator (stress coat) stop adding all the other stuff like ph down and salt. Salt is only needed if you have a goal (ie: treat ich), dont add them just for the sake of adding.

To pinpoint the cause, you need to measure the ammonia then do a 50% water change, and measure the ammonia again right after, to compare results. It will be very obvious using the results to determine if your test kit is working or not.

You can then at least zoom in on the problem, if it is indeed high ammonia, reduce feeding and daily water change until you can get rid of the fish. Raphael Catfish, Pleco, and Iridescent Shark should be the first 3 that needs to go.
 
Freshwater fish should be kept in just that, freshwater. I know some people swear by salt in their FW tanks but it is just not neccesary. It all comes down to simple biology really.

To me it looks like your tank is definately overstocked. Overstocking puts a greater load on your filters ability to filter efficiently and makes it more likely for things (like ammonia levels) to go wrong.

As gagaliya said keep doing water changes, monitor levels etc and you'll probably need to find a new home for some of your fish (especially the common pleco).
 
Please adjust that stocking you have and do the water changes as suggested.

How long and what kind of cycle did you do on setting the tanks up?

What is the ammonia reading on your tap water?

How much/what kind of filtration?
 
I'm not so sure. If you're using the AP (one solution) test, you're probably getting false positives on your ammonia test. Get a 2-part salicylate ammonia test and try again. The stuff you're adding just might be raising the ammonia reading. No fish can survive ammonia levels that high without acute distress and gill burhing.

I agree with all the others - use a dechlor and throw everything else away. Chasing an "ideal" pH number is more distressing for the fish than any specific pH.
 
If it is my Chloramine, why would the 50% water changes do anything? It's my tap water and I need a dechlorinator. If I do a water change, it is still adding fresh Chloramine that hasn't had any chance to filter. And I will get dechlorinator and a new ammonia test.
 
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