Ammonia Problem

[DeRo316]

It would be overcrowded but that would be the point. I've run accross many cichlid keepers that keep A LOT of fish in their tank to prevent aggression issues. By overcrowding the tank you are making it harder for a fish to pick another one out of the crowd to fight. The person I bought most of my fish from had about 75 africans in a 150 gallon and it looked incredible. I havnt had any trouble trying to do the same thing in my 55, there may be some short chases but they get distracted by the other fish right away. As long as nitrates are checked regularly and frequent water changes are done it works out great.

 

[mostlycichlids]

It's like a huge friendly family 30 would be the most in a 75 gallon but you can sucessfully keep less. I keep nine mildly agressive species along with 5 synodontis catfish and they just absolutley thrive they swim back and fourth up and down like there is no tomorrow. 30 would be the absolute most but with mbuma it is a beautiful site. as long as you keep 2-3 females to 1 male.

55 gal
3 yellow Labs
2 Kenyi- Most agressive
1 snow white socofoli
2 Ice Blue Zebras
1 Ice blue Albino
5 synodontis- two different species

 

[Grundy]

Don't forget to test your tap water. You usually do not have ammonia in the water but I have heard of nitrates there...

 

[hugebass]

Ammonia Problem - Status

I tested my Tap water, all seems well there. I noticed the kiddy toys I had in the tank for my kids was peeling paint everywhere. Not sure if this was root cause, but I definitely didn't like it. I'm now a toy hater. Here is what I've done to combat this gastly mysterious ammmonia issue:

I decided to go all new tank/water based on recommendation from the LFS. I removed all the toys and just left the plastic plants. I bought about $100 worth of new rock fixtures that are much like the lake natural habitat. I change the tank floor from small rock to sand. I kept about 10 gallons of the original water and rinsed the filters in the tank water so as not to lose the beneficial bacteria and hopefully jump start the tank. All of the Africans are alive and well, eating and acting ok. Its been 1 week since the massive change. Here are my levels:

Nitrite: .25 PPM
Ammonia: 1.8 PPM
Nitrate: 8 PPM
PH: 8 PPM
Temp: 78 F

Again, this is 1 week, no water changes. I did add water to compensate for the evaporation. Do you think I should do a water change during the re-cycle and if so, how much of a change?

Thanks everyone for helping me get through this!

 

[Rbishop]

You are in a fishy cycle with those readings? I would recommend water changes.

Did you use bio-spira on this restart?

 

[hugebass]

You are in a fishy cycle with those readings? I would recommend water changes.

Did you use bio-spira on this restart?

I haven't yet, should I?

Thanks, Reed

 

[hugebass]

You are in a fishy cycle with those readings? I would recommend water changes.

Did you use bio-spira on this restart?

And what do you mean, fishy cycle? Please explain. Thanks.

 

[Rbishop]

The bio-spira has the correct bacteria in it for quick starting a FW tank. From reading the other thread and this one, it sounds as if something has happened to kill off your bacteria and you need to reestablish it.

Read this article on cycling a tank, you may get some insight...

http://aquariumboard.com/forums/articles/26-cycling-tank-fw.html

I'd do 50% water changes every 12 hours during this fishy cycle to keep ammonia and nitrites at zero. Even if the test kit reads zero, you will still have some bacteria and it will be building. It is called a fishy cycle because you have fish in the tank while the bacteria are being established. The high levels of ammonia and nitrite can be stressful on your fish, thus the water changes to keep them low.

In a fishless cycle, you do not have fish and you add ammonia to get the cycle going. Ammonia will peak, then drop off and the nitrites will peak and you will see nitrates form. This sequence is the establishment of your bacteria. The high levels at the peak are okay since there are not any fish there.

If you decide to use bio spira, follow the directions exactly. I'd also ditch the ammo lock and use Prime to dechlor your replenishment water.

 

[hugebass]

Do you think I should have replaced the bio-wheels in the two Emporer 400's? I left the old ones in there. What about replacing the filters? They are about 3.5wks old. I think the recommended is 4wks.

Thanks

 

[redtailfool]

Do not touch the bio wheel and the pad for now. Cleaning or replacing it will get rid of the beneficial bacteria that is badly needed to convert ammonia into a more inert form.