Bio Spira Efffectiveness

phanmc said:
Agreed, 5ppm shouldn't be causing the BioSpira to fail but perhaps people are going over the 5ppm mark without realizing it. Like Roan, I've read plenty of failed attempts with BioSpira and I don't think most of them are due to a bad batch.

Yeah, I found it really tough to tell the difference between readings once the levels got that high. I found myself sticking to upper end of the 2-4ppm range rather than higher since the AP test card then jumps from 4 to 8ppm, and then it's just a big guess to what levels actually are.
 
Everybody take a deep breath and think about the bacteria involved, the product involved, and the techniques involved for both.

#1: I believe that most hobbyists trying the Bio-Spira product by the manufacturer's instructions have been helped significantly by the product. There have been too many total or partial failures reported to ignore, but it does seem that most such reports have resulted from improper storage and handling prior to sale to the hobbyist. Personally I have tested the product (small scale) and it performed exactly as described. This was not lab work, just straight tank room trials, no bacteriology, just hobby test kits.

#2: I have also seen more than a few reported failures from attempts to use the product for fishless cycling. I have not tried this myself, and have no urge to do so, but several thoughts come to mind:

2-a) The now standard 5ppm ammonia dose is very high IMHO, and many folks ignore the original proceedure to reduce that titer to 1/2 the original level as soon as nitrite appears. Either or both of these phases could easily have negative effects on the product under discussion. The original titer was 3 ppm, later increased by the author to 5ppm. Personally I have never used more than 3ppm, nor have I ever had any issues from the lower dose - BUT, I don't overload tanks, especially new tanks. When I set a new tank with full stock, it is new and young (therefore smaller than adult by a non-trivial factor) and has substantial space and time to grow to full size and bioload. Setting my biofilters for maximum bioload initially is heavy overkill and I do not bother.

2-b) Too many folks are unaware of the importance of the KH on the water during fishless cycle, or of the need to monitor pH/KH throughout the cycle. KH depletion and the resulting pH crash does the bacteria no good at all. Nobody knows what it will do to the Bio-Spira bacterial strains. And for some peculiar reason many folks are terrified of doing a water change(s) during the cycle process.

#3: When a product is advertised as doing Job A (say perhaps a new tank with new fish), it is reasonable to try it out on Job A and see how it does for you on that. If you then want to try it on Job B (say perhaps fishless cycling a new tank), you have baseline data for comparison between the two distinct but related jobs. But do remember that the goals of the two jobs are not the same. Marineland and Dr Hovanec do not say that their product will compensate for a grossly overcrowded tank - which is exactly the colony scale projected from fishless cycling. There is no implied promise that an apple-peeler will do the same job on a peach. There is no guarantee that your tank handling is really a very good match for any other particular individual on these boards, so anecdotal results presented here may or may not have significance in your operations. Statistics are a non-starter in such an area.

All of course JMHO & IME. ;)
 
When I bought my first package of Bio Spira from my LFS they told me that fish introduced to a new tank will automatically urinate and thus start the cycle immediately. If that were wholly true, then adding Bio Spira mid-cycle should work instantaneously, the same as if they were added at the start of the cycle. That's not true, as we've found, and it takes a few days for the new bacteria to end the cycle.

I know it sounds a bit odd....It's a question thats been plaguing me for along time.....Fish urinate?! I know it's odd of me to ask...but what the heck
 
FW fish rarely drink, but do uninate copiously. They are hypertonic to the water they are in and so absorb water through their skin, mucous membranes, and gills constantly. Then they have to dump that water to preserve their internal chemistry.

FW fish BTW dump most ammonia/ammonium via their gills, not in their urine. But to expect LFS staff to know and understand physiology is unrealistic IMHO.
 
sorry, I just think it's kinda funny.. fish actually urinate...:)
 
RTR said:
Everybody take a deep breath and think about the bacteria involved, the product involved, and the techniques involved for both.

#1: I believe that most hobbyists trying the Bio-Spira product by the manufacturer's instructions have been helped significantly by the product. There have been too many total or partial failures reported to ignore, but it does seem that most such reports have resulted from improper storage and handling prior to sale to the hobbyist.

There is also a chance that the hobbyist themselves aren't using it as directed, or has made any number of other errors with a new tank that cause it to fail (eg improper water treatment, chemical additives that bind the ammonia, water changes too soon after adding BioSpira, etc.)

#2: I have also seen more than a few reported failures from attempts to use the product for fishless cycling. I have not tried this myself, and have no urge to do so, but several thoughts come to mind:

2-a) The now standard 5ppm ammonia dose is very high IMHO, and many folks ignore the original proceedure to reduce that titer to 1/2 the original level as soon as nitrite appears. Either or both of these phases could easily have negative effects on the product under discussion.

I think this point is important. I have seen, many times, people having problems with their fishless cycle and that they did not follow directions and half the original level as soon as nitrite appears. The nitrite and nitrate levels can get quite high, and adding too much ammonia will exacerbate the issue, sending those numbers through the roof...and potentially cause a crash or stall.

The original titer was 3 ppm, later increased by the author to 5ppm. Personally I have never used more than 3ppm, nor have I ever had any issues from the lower dose - BUT, I don't overload tanks, especially new tanks. When I set a new tank with full stock, it is new and young (therefore smaller than adult by a non-trivial factor) and has substantial space and time to grow to full size and bioload. Setting my biofilters for maximum bioload initially is heavy overkill and I do not bother.

I don't recall if I have seen the article by the original author. I do remember searching for fishless cycling, and finding a number of articles, and choosing to follow the one that seemed the clearest in its direction (http://www.aquamaniacs.net/forum/cms_view_article.php?aid=31.) This article simply mentions a target of 3-5ppm. As I mentioned, my first fishless cycle was with 2-4ppm. Would you mind posting the link to the original article?

However, it certainly is overkill to try for a really high number if you're going to be conservative when adding fish.

2-b) Too many folks are unaware of the importance of the KH on the water during fishless cycle, or of the need to monitor pH/KH throughout the cycle. KH depletion and the resulting pH crash does the bacteria no good at all. Nobody knows what it will do to the Bio-Spira bacterial strains. And for some peculiar reason many folks are terrified of doing a water change(s) during the cycle process.

I think, for some, there is a misundertanding of the process of cycling in general, and there is a lack of awareness or understanding of what the relationship is between pH and KH. In that case, fishless cycling isn't going to make much more sense. :) Following directions can be difficult for some as well, especially when the fishless cycling process is slow...I think there can be a tendency to try to push to speed up the process and skip important steps along the way.

#3: When a product is advertised as doing Job A (say perhaps a new tank with new fish), it is reasonable to try it out on Job A and see how it does for you on that. If you then want to try it on Job B (say perhaps fishless cycling a new tank), you have baseline data for comparison between the two distinct but related jobs. But do remember that the goals of the two jobs are not the same. Marineland and Dr Hovanec do not say that their product will compensate for a grossly overcrowded tank - which is exactly the colony scale projected from fishless cycling. There is no implied promise that an apple-peeler will do the same job on a peach. There is no guarantee that your tank handling is really a very good match for any other particular individual on these boards, so anecdotal results presented here may or may not have significance in your operations. Statistics are a non-starter in such an area.

All of course JMHO & IME. ;)

I guess I'm viewing BioSpira as no more than seeding a tank (really well.) I don't expect it to be an instant cycle when using it fishlessly, especially if one is going for a max biofilter. I think it's worth a shot...and that it has the potential to shorten the fishless process...of course there is a risk that it won't work, whether it's because of improper handling, or failing to follow fishless procedure, whatever. If it doesn't work with fishless, at least you didn't harm any fish to find that out. :D
 
The original article is:

http://www.aquasource.org/CMS/modul...ons&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2&page=1

The revision is:

http://www.aquasource.org/CMS/modul...ons&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=3&page=1

When those were first published and popularized, none of us testing and popularizing the technique were aware of the hazards of low-KH water, as we all had moderately hard to hard water and had no problems. As the technique became more popular, there were too many cases of tank pH crashes (which can harm the bacteria), so we did realize the issue should be warned against.
 
I'm just starting with my 72g w/ overflow into wet/dry w/ bioballs.... It's been about 2 weeks since I first put water in it and added fish 1 week later + 2 1/2 1oz bags of BioSpira. I currently have:

(3) Pearl Gouramis
(5) Honey Gouramis (seem big to be honeys)
(7) Long Finned Danios
(4) White Clouds

Various fake plants, 1 real sm plant (forgot name..LOL), 4 bunches of Java Moss, lrg piece of driftwood, sm piece of driftwood, couple pieces of slate and FilPro #2 sand + small amount of Carib Sea Flora Max as substrate. Plus a 260w compact flourencent light fixture over the top.


It's been about a week since I added the fish and BioSpira and according my Aquarium Phamacutical test kit, there still is no Ammonia, nitrItes or nitrAtes. My water was on the hard side with, according to AP KH/GH test kit, KH was normal for tropical fish but the GH was high so I added a couple water softner pillows for a couple of days to soften the water a little bit (plan on getting a few Dojo Loaches this week). I have already seen Danio fry on the glass!! Now that I know what I was looking at since I have some left in my 5gal tank from where I took the Danios from =)

My concern is that maybe there isn't enough food for the BioSpira? I have another 3oz bag in the fridge just in case. I would have thought I should see some readings after a week. I will attempt to update here on my circumstances.


Temp = 74
pH = 7.0
Am= 0
nitrI = 0
nitrA = 0
GH = (will test again)
KH = (will test again)
 
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RTR said:
The original article is:

http://www.aquasource.org/CMS/modul...ons&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=2&page=1

The revision is:

http://www.aquasource.org/CMS/modul...ons&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=3&page=1

When those were first published and popularized, none of us testing and popularizing the technique were aware of the hazards of low-KH water, as we all had moderately hard to hard water and had no problems. As the technique became more popular, there were too many cases of tank pH crashes (which can harm the bacteria), so we did realize the issue should be warned against.

Yes, I did see those articles originally, but I think they were from a different site. The revised article you linked to mentions adding ammonia to ~5ppm, and to add the same amount daily until nitrites starting showing. I have concerns about continually adding the same amount of ammonia daily...would that not create too high an amount of ammonia before the bacteria had a chance to start consuming the ammonia?

The method I chose to follow indicated to add ammonia only when the original amount started to fall, and to only add enough to get the level back up to 5ppm. Then, once nitrites were showing up, only to add half the original dose of ammonia daily. I still did need to keep an eye on KH.
 
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