Canister Filter Question

NattyGains

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Jan 8, 2017
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Hi guys,

I've recently started my very first aquarium. This country has a very poor selection of canister filters, so I've grabbed an Atman EF4 filter. It's not sold in the U.S. and most of Europe, so many of you are probably not familiar with it - it's a powerful but *very* flimsy-looking filter. You have to prime it manually, the plastic looks cheap, and I'm terrified of just having to mess with the valves, since they look so fragile. I'd gladly bust the money for a Fluval FX6 if they had those here, but again, the selection is just dreadful.

With this in mind, I'm very worried that a few years down the road the filter starts leaking and completely floods the entire apartment. 55 gallons is a lot, and I live in an apartment building. I don't even want to imagine the damages of a busted up filter, both in my flat and the one below.

Are there any good ways to secure a canister filter, or any precautions I could take to minimize the damages in case it busts?
 
I did a quick search for this model and it looks similar in construction to other brands.

What is your particular concern with flimsy construction? Is it the canister body, the swivel fittings or what?
 
The body, the lid, and most of all, the plastic valves where the tubing is connected to the lid. The valves seem very flimsy. Additionally, the plastic intake/outtake tubes that go in the tank are just kinda "shoved" into the rubber tubing, there's no parts that secure those together.
 
Get a plastic tote for the canister to sit in inside the tank stand and then add a 'leak frog' type device---something that alarms when it gets wet.
 
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Natty, leaks are a concern and definite possibility with ANY canister filter. Doesn't matter if it's a cheap or expensive one. Like Sheila suggested above, place it in a plastic container, bucket, tote, etc. You can mail-order little battery operated leak detectors that chirp when they get wet to place in the container.

You're less likely to have any type of leak with a hang-on-back or internal style filter is you ever want to go that route.
 
Not much to add, but if you put the filter intake toward the top of the tank, it will not drain ALL of the water from the tank, only to the level of the intake.
 
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^^ This, or I think it was Tanker that once suggested drilling a tiny hole towards the top (but still kept underwater) portion of your intake and discharge "U" pipes to break the siphon should the water level drop by disaster.
 
Question - I understand the logic for the intake but not the return- can you explain please ? Thank you
 
Question - I understand the logic for the intake but not the return- can you explain please ? Thank you
Logic of what? A siphon break?

When water is not being moved, say in a power outage, the water will move through the siphon on either intake or return.

If there is a leak in the filter, or is not designed to be airtight say in a sump, the water will just flow through the return or intake until water drains enough that it sucks in air and the siphon breaks.

On a sump, the water will only go down to the openings of the weir or height of the standpipe or whatever the intake is... The return will go to wherever it is.. if you are trying to return water lower in the tank for flow or whatever, that pipe will drain down to there.. hence a siphon break hole.

Personally we only use break holes for a sump return... If a canister would drain like this in a power outage or pump failure, you will likely already see a problem.
 
Thx for your speedy reply. Always trying to lean. I was questioning the return side. Most ppl have it located a few inches from the top water level. So once the water level is below the out let leaving only the inlet available to siphon it the water. I find hydronics to be an interesting subject, especially since working on DIY filters . The idea of drilling a small hole in the upper portion of the inlet is a brilliant idea
Happy 4th a day early
 
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