Cleaning

P

polocrosseplyer

AC Members
Apr 21, 2006
71
0
0
I've got a ten gallon with plants and three fish
and I bought a mini vaccuum, which i've only used for about a minute to clean up the molding algea eater food - which i put in there a day ago... eck
but i realized the vacuum was taking out quite a bit of water pretty quickly and I would have had not water in the tank by the time i got all of the dirt etc out of the gravel. should i get a valve thing from the lps to stop it flowing or do you guys suggest something else to clean the gravel?

and should algea eater food mold? or have white fuzzy stuff growing on it? and since I use bottled spring water I dont need to add tap water conditioner to it when i change it, just some bio coat or stress coat right?
Thanks so much for everyone's help!!!!!
 
Any food can mold if left uneaten. It’s best to clean it up. If it’s just one piece inbetween regular cleanings, what you could buy is a new turkey baster to just suck that one thing up.

You can vacuum half the gravel each time (I assume you’re doing weekly cleanings) if you find too much water is going out. (Even 50% water change is fine.) Another thing you could do is put the bucket on a stool. If the distance between it and the tank is less, the suction will be too. It’s slower going but you have more control on the water. Just don’t be clumsy like me and knock the bucket over!

You really don’t need Bio Coat or Stress Coat to add “slime coat” for your fish. Stress Coat is all right if you are using it as a water conditioner, but there are better products for that. Is there a reason you aren’t using your tap water for water changes? Using bottled water could get pretty expensive.
 
As a rule, if there is any food left over the day after you put it in, get it out.

Another thing to think about is that often, the cheaper side of bottled water has often got added chemicals too! (Yes i was shocked to find this out too!)

So make sure you know what you are putting in. (Most stress coat will act as an expensive conditioner however. Just make sure it does.)
 
i'm using bottled water because the tap water at work is pretty nasty, at times its brown. I'm using spring water, which hopefully doesnt have anything added in it, but i'll look into it and its not too expensive 65c's a gallon... though considering how expensive it is for an aquarium.. it all adds up!. And I never ever thought of the turkey baster... it would be a lot easier since the pieces are close together!! and I will be doing weekley water changes.. i just put fish in monday.. along with proaquatics bacteria starter, and i wont be adding more fish till next week when i do the water change. Do you guys suggest not adding a stress coat every water change? or is there something better?
 
when did you start the tank? Is it cycled?

If so there is no need for bacteria starter. And it hardly ever works either so...

Regular water conditioner is fine. Or, i have found that pond size conditioner is even better. less needed in the tank and more for your money.
 
tank isnt cycled that is why i'm using the bacteria starter and maybe it will make cycling a little easier on the fish.... i would have gone with biospira, but no way to know if i would be there for delivery... i'll look into the pond conditioner though.. since it's all for fish and cheaper is always nice!
 
Might be worth changing the algae eater food, my fish wont touch certain brands of algae wafers and they just turn to green slime. I stick with the Hikari ones now, they always completely disappear within a few hours.

Don't worry about the stress coat, anything like that is ussually increasing slime coat by irritating your fish to some extent. Standard water conditioner with no fancy additives is the way to go, just check that it takes care of chloramines too.
 
Last edited:
i'm using the hikari ones... and they havent disappeared.. maybe he just isnt used to being away from his other catfish....
 
Out of curiosity, (sometimes stated as "here is a stupid question"), can we get input on....

what fish do you have in the tank?
do you have test kits?
what are your exact pH, ammonnia, nitrite, and nitrate levels?
what are your readings on your tap water after letting it sit over night?
do you have well water or a city system?
what kind of filtration system are you using?

Charcoal will help your discoloration issue and water changes will help with maintaining your tank during and after the cycle.

More positive help can be given if the above questions can be answered.

Thanks.
 
i have two tetras and a otocincolous (sp)? catfish
I have the 5 in 1 test strip kit... exact.. couldnt tell ya
dont read the tap water.. not using it... and its city water, and the water in the tank isnt discolored, its the water that comes out of the tap.
its a top fin 10.. though next paycheck i'm going to look in to a biowheel and different lighting and air tubing.......
and thank you!!!!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom