Columnaris

applie

AC Members
Jul 31, 2009
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I think I have a few fish with columnaris. I have never dealt with it before, and I am looking for treatment suggestions.

I just discovered one of my neon tetras has an eroded mouth, and three harlequins have white bumps on their mouths. Currently they are in my ten gallon hospital aquarium along with the other neon tetra that appears to be healthy. The two neons are the last remainder of a school that were decimated a few months ago by an addition of some neons from what turned out to be unhealthy stock.

They were in my 20 gallon until this morning with 4 other harlequins, two platies, and a small school of cories. The other fish do not appear to be showing any symptoms, although one of my platies does not look to be feeling well in general (clamped fins, slightly lethargic).

Water parameters of both tanks are the same:

0 Ammonia
0 Nitrites
5 Nitrates

I was hoping on suggestions for the best course of treatment.

1. Should I just treat the just obviously affected fish? Should I treat all of the harlequins and rasboras? Should I treat all of the fish?

2. Should I treat with antibiotics or some other type of medication?

3. As a precautionary measure should I feed the platies and cories antibacterial food instead of treating them with harsh, possibly unwarranted medications?
 
pH of tank now and week or two ago & Temp of tank now???

Any pics avail? Antibiotics you may already have???
 
any pics? sounds more like mouth rot to me, columnaris is a nasty gram positive bacteria that ca easily be treated with erythromycin. Columnaris rarely effects the mouth of a fish and usally is found towards the back and sides offten causing paralisis if left untreated or mis-diagnosed. Mouth rot on the other hand is a gram negative bacteria so find out which one or post some pics for a better id because your talking 2 different treatments
 
I'm pretty sure you are confusing columnaris with another disease since it is commonly referred to as "cotton mouth". It is actually most often located in the mouth area of the fish but really can be present anywhere. Flavobacterium columnare is also gram - not +.
 
PH and temp of both tanks the same:

PH: 7.6 (has been the same for over a year)
Temp: 78F (coming off from a raised temp for a slight case of ich after the last cory was added. trying to lower it slowly for bacterial infection.)

I assumed the neon's white spot initially was ich since there were a couple of spots of ich on other fish that were flashing. It looked like an ich spot, It looked smooth and round, not fluffy. It "appeared" to be gone, but I could not get a good look at the mouth until I moved him over to the hospital tank.

No pictures available right now. I found these pictures on other forums that look like my rasboras' mouths.

http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/uploads/newbb/10312_4b2e802b0a22d.jpg

http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/rr249/AaronsTank/Work/Suspicious122408.jpg

When I went to the crappy Petsmart by me yesterday, the only antibiotic they had was erythromycin.
 
I do believe that this is Columnaris, and I agree... You need both Maracyn and Maracyn II, however... Maracyn is erythromycin so you may need to only purchase Maracyn II.

The erythro works on Aeromonas which is most always present when a fish is infected with Columnaris. The Maracyn II treats the Flavobacter columnare bacterium that is causing the cottony, filmy lesions and red eroded areas of the mouth. This is a deadly infection.

Bring your water temperature to around 75 degrees in the 20 and the hospital tank to slow down the bacteria: the bacteria love temps above that and take off like a racehorse at temps above that.

In the 20 gallon I would slowly bring the tank to about .3% salinity. This means you would have 3 teaspoons of table salt per gallon. Studies have shown that .3% salinity in tank water with fish that have been exposed to, but have not already come down with Coumnaris have 0% mortality.

First I would do a 50% water change in the 20 gallon. Then start adding the salt this way:

You need to dissolve 20 teaspoons, not tablespoons, in a quart of the tankwater. Thoroughly dissolve before adding slowly to the tank. Tomorrow do the same, and the next day do the same. Now you are up to 60 TEAspoons in the tank which is .3%. This is commonly done to treat for Ich, even with Otos and Corys I've maintained this salinity for 28 days with no problems.

In about 3 days I'd remove about 50% of the water in the 20 gallon. Add back the 10 gallons you removed after adding 30 teaspoons to the bucket of temperature matched dechlorinated water. It is imperative that you make sure the salt is dissolved.

If you see any sign that the others are definitely infected move them to the hospital.

I would keep the hospital tank at about .1% salinity, because there are studies that indicate that even in fish with frank infection the salinity helps with Columnaris.

First do a 50% water change in the hospital tank. Then bring up the salinity, no problem with doing the full 10 teaspoons in the water added back, but remember.... fully dissolved.

Dose the hospital tank as recommended for the 10 gallon with the Maracyn (or erythro) and Maracyn II. In 24 hours do a huge water change. Take out 8 gallons and add back temp matched, conditioned water with 8 teaspoons of dissolved salt. Immediately after the water change dose the tank.

Keep doing this for 10 days.

If you notice evaporation in either tank, always top off to the previous level with conditioned water before the water changes. Then do the water change. This way you keep the salinity levels constant and prevent the salinity levels from creeping up to stonger concentrations.

Doing water changes and then dosing with meds keeps the water pristine and doesn't interfere with the actions of the antibiotics. They break down in the water after a few hours and become unavailable anyway. So fresh water and fresh doses work wonders with the Maracyn and Maracyn II combo.

I would get Prime, by Seachem, to remove chlorine and chloramines but also because it detoxifies ammonia and nitrite and nitrate and can help in between 24 hour water changes.
 
Mel- Thank you for your suggestions and answering my questions. Last night I was able to get to my regular LFS and pick up some Maracyn 2. I wish Petsmart's medication section was not perpetually out of stock. I appreciate your reply greatly.

In brighter news the erythromycin seems to have taken care of whatever the platy's problem was.

The columnaris had managed to spread to a couple more rasboras (Silly guys kept trying to school with their reflections when they were introduced to the 20 gallon after quarantine. I think they banged up their mouths and noses pretty well which is allowing for the infection) and the neon now has some stuff on his side. Hopefully we can get this straightened out with your suggestions and finally being able to get the appropriate medicine.
 
What ever this may be and whatever med you choose to to use, just follow the direction specified by the maufacturer rather than deciding the dosage and frequency/volume of water changes on you own. Duration of med's activity are NOT the same for all antibiotics! Many factors do influenceits effectiveness/activity/duration.

Hope all goes well!
 
I started working on this hours ago but have been interrupted repeatedly by my family.... sigh.... but I wanted to post on this thread.

I strongly disagree with Cerianthus, and have had this disagreement with him on other threads.

Without any intended malice or in any way meaning to be unkind, I will say that I can't speak for the experience or credentials of Cerianthus; I can say outright I do not consider myself a guru of fishkeeping, evenso I have had very much experience, successful experience, with using this method when treating fish for bacterial infection.

I learned to do this from AC fishkeepers that I do consider to be gurus of fishkeeping, and the thing is logical and reasonable when you understand that antibiotics are very unstable in the environment of the fish tank.

Here is a link to a thread by Flaringshutter who was one of our mods until recently, and is one of our gurus here on AC.

http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134928

She advocates water changes while treating with antibiotics.

Another couple of gurus, Msjinkzd, one of our global moderators, has years of fishkeeping experience and another AC member, Dr. No, who has years of experience with fishkeeping and is a medical professional, both held in very high regard here on AC, support the importance of pristine water while treating any fish for bacterial illness.

I've read threads in which they, among others, also state that antibiotics break down in the water column and are, for the most part, unavailable after a few hours, and who recommend daily water changes and then dosing with antibiotics, and who have done this successfully.

There are many others who have advocated this practice and when I have time I'll find the threads to back it up, but I've got 15 different projects going on right now and can't do that today.

Pristine water is of utmost importance, especially to fish that are sick. If your fish are in water with traces of ammonia and or nitrite (or even undetectable levels) and excessive dissolved organic compounds the fish are fighting two issues... the infection and the water chemistry that is causing harm by impacting negatively their immune system and their ability to fight the infection, as well as potentially burning gill tissue, in the case of ammonia, and/or interfering with 02 uptake, in the case of nitrite.

I have personally called Jungle Labs in the past and spoke to one of the technical support people there and asked about this issue. He said that they don't advocate water changes on the packaging to the public because they don't think people can manage doing large enough water changes and then dosing the tank, and the assumption is that they will therefore overdose the fish.

He agreed that meds break down in the water and become unavailable and that increasing levels of ammonia or nitrite impact the ability of the fish to fight the infection. When I pointed out that ammonia can be building up in the tank... he said, "It is a conundrum", but he said the concern is the fishkeeper will not do huge water changes and will overdose their fish.

I have spoken to the technical rep at Seachem, which makes Kanaplex, and the technicial rep said, "yes, in a perfect world the hospital tank would have huge water changes every day before dosing with Kanaplex. It does begin to lose its efficacy within the 24 hour period and breaks down in the water column." She said, "The concern is that the fishkeeper will dose everyday and won't do the huge water changes and will overdose their fish."

That's why I like to do as close to 100% water changes in the hospital tank as I can. However, even doing 80% water changes should be sufficient to remove ammonia, nitrite, and enough of the antibiotic that has broken down.

While speaking to the Seachem rep I asked her opinion of about the use of Prime while treating with antibiotics.

I told her about a case where I knew I couldn't do daily 80-100% water changes so when I started seeing ammonia traces, using a liquid test kit, I dosed the tank daily with Prime.

I had also recommended that same method to another fishkeeper who felt they couldn't do daily big water changes and they successfully treated their sick fish. They monitored their water carefully every day and began to use Prime daily when they started seeing ammonia traces.

The Seachem rep agreed that my daily use of Prime was a very good solution to the problem of ammonia and/or nitrite in the hospital tank.

She said that their other product Neoplex, however, would not be one you would want dose every day, even with water changes, and said dosing with Prime would be good in that case as well.

If you want to give your fish the very best conditions for recovery, daily huge (80 or 90 to 100%) water changes with good conditioned water, preferably using Prime, and temperature matched water that is kept to around 75F in their tank, then dosing with fresh antibiotic, will work wonders.

There are some medications and anti parasitics that you would not dose daily after a water change, but for most antibiotics, including the ones mentioned here, Maracyn, Maracyn 2, Kanaplex or Kanamycin, all of which are commonly used for Columaris, this is what I would do.

Salt in the hospital tank is optional, though I like to do a low dose of .1% in the hospital tank for Columnaris.

In the main tank where fish have been exposed but have not yet contracted the infection I would do the .3% salinity to help prevent the infection.

Sidenote: I like to handle antibiotics responsibly: I prefer to pour tank water with antibiotics in it out onto the ground rather than let them go into the drain and directly into the water system.

ADDENDUM: Please forgive typos and sentence fragments; I have been up and down with so many interruptions during this lenghty post that I just haven't done any proof reading.
 
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