Corydoras paleatus (long fin)

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huapala

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Jul 25, 2013
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Ke Aupuni Hawaii, Hawaiian Kingdom
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Huapala
Aloha mai kakou, I had five (5) peppered long fin corys and just recently one went through a very interesting death. As soon as I noticed behavioral differences I began searching through various forums trying to locate similar symptoms and remedies. My cory (who I had for almost a year) lost his bottom whiskers and looked as if his dorsal fin was nipped at (possibly by the australian rainbows -a new addition to the community). After me and my girlfriend noticed some erratic behavior (swimming frantically to the top and bottom -more than usual), we began to keep a more vigilant eye on our little friend. After about an hour of searching we found that corys commonly lose their whiskers when carelessly feeding on sharp surfaces, so we figured his strange behavior was due to an accidental whisker cut upon a newly added volcanic stone (aa lava; rough and porous). However, after feeling assured that our little cory's discomforts would pass we were shocked again to find him floating to the surface, belly up like he had just died. Upon confronting the supposed death I discovered that he was breathing very fast. Searching the internet again I found remedies for digestive problems and many people alluding to a possible constipation issues. My girl friend drove in a panic to the local grocery store and purchased some frozen peas. I boiled the peas and prepared to feed them (after being skinned) to our sick little pal, however, he did not take to the food in his usual manic demeanor. Instead he made very little effort to retrieve the food because he was too busy trying to stay at the bottom of the tank. He kept floating to the top uncontrollably where upon arrival he seemed dead to both me, my girlfriend, and the rainbow fishes that constantly circle for floating things to eat. Luckily the corys are all in good company and came to the aid of their little friend before the rainbows had a chance to nip him. I decided after 2hours and continued floating to the surface that he should be quarantined for his own safety (I did not want to wake up the next day and find him ripped apart by rainbows). He would only eat the peas when I fed them to him by hand and after a while he defecated and then threw up tiny amounts of food. I thought that he was on his way to recovery. When I woke up the next morning he was in his quarantine container (very small but with aeration) not having any difficulty staying at the bottom. So, I thought the worse was over and placed him back inside the community tank (29g). He quickly swam to the bottom and joined his friends that were so loyal during his time of distress. When I arrived home (3:00Pm) I immediately looked for him in the tank and saw that all the other corys were in seclusion. I quickly found out why as I glanced to the top right corner of the tank and saw his tiny 1.5inch bottom floating belly up on the surface -no nips or bites taken from him. The other corys were in deep morning and did not vacate from under the drift wood until feeding time (8:00pm). I was very upset, my girl friend too, I dissected him but did not find any build up of junk in his stomach, it looked as though he passed all of his waste before dying.
My point is: I read a lot of posts about this type of thing sometimes they live and are fine sometimes they die. I was wondering if anyone had advice on the best course of action to take next time this occurs. Mahalo no
 

huapala

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Jul 25, 2013
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Ke Aupuni Hawaii, Hawaiian Kingdom
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Huapala
My community tank set up is 29gallons (standard dimensions). The community consists of: 8 Pristilla tetras; now 4 Corydoras paleatus; 3 Australian Rainbows. I have medium gravel, larger gravel and glass aquarium stones for the substrate. It is planted with dwarf hair grass (Eleocharis aciculari) and some sort of sword grass (both recently planted). The tank also contains one (1) smooth rock approx. 7"x3"x3"; one (1) jagged lava rock approx. 5"x3"x3"; one (1) piece of bog wood approx. 7"x3"x3". I have a 4inch air stone disk hooked up to a 50g air pump.
My filtration is a bit different than most because I am running an aquaponic set up. The grow bed (a 10gallon roughneck Rubbermaid tote filled with cinders and gravel) sits above the tank and a submersible pump sits at the bottom of the tank and pumps (at its current height) 80gallons of water per hour into the grow bed, therefore I estimate that the tank is cycled a little more than twice (2x) per hour. The cinders and rocks are packed in the tote about 5inches high. Growing inside are mixed baby greens, chili peppers, and strawberries.
PPM and pH:
Ammonia NH3/NH4 + = 2ppm;
Nitrate = 0ppm;
Nitrite = > 40ppm;
TDS = > < 500ppm.
pH = 7.0 – 7.5 (I try to keep it lower rather than higher as my plants enjoy a lower pH and all of my fish prefer a ph between 6.5 and 7.5)

Food Profile:
For the most part i feed with TetraMin Flakes and supplement with Hikari algae wafers (which everyone enjoys) and I recently tried slow sinking TetraColor granules but stopped due to fat and protein content.
 

jpappy789

Plants need meat too
Feb 18, 2007
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I'm assuming you meant 40+ ppm nitrATE, not nitrITE. Either way, you should not be showing that much ammonia. I'd bet that is at least part of the problem.

Aquaponics are a novel system, but not always the ideal setup for aquarium fish. Are you changing the water at all?
 

Rbishop

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Dec 30, 2005
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Are you adding any ferts to help the plant growth? If it is 40 ppm nitrAtes IMO that is high for cory...
 

huapala

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Jul 25, 2013
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Huapala
No ferts for my plants. My cory was fine before my tank upgrade and the addition of some new fish (3 Australian Rainbows). My questions pertains to the steps one should take when they see their fish behaving in such a manner (i.e. medicine, food, hospital tank).
 

jpappy789

Plants need meat too
Feb 18, 2007
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Ammonia at 2 ppm is a huge stressor for fish and can also lead to the tissue damage that your cory was displaying as it is hard for anything to heal. It is a huge irritant to the gills and may be the reason for the heavy breathing too. I'd be very surprised if that wasn't at least part of the problem.

What test kit are you using?
Do you do any water changes to deal with the extra nitrogenous waste?

I know it looks like the rainbows are the issue here, but I can assure you that having ammonia at that levels is highly problematic and is something that needs to be taken care of immediately if your test results are accurate. It's entirely also possible that the disturbance from the upgrade and addition of the rainbows overloaded the system, so to speak.

But on the topic of the rainbows, most aren't known to be aggressive. That being said, they can be nippier if not kept in larger groups where they then keep any conspecific bullying mostly to themselves. However, I would not advise adding more to your tank due to it not being established. They can also get to 4-5" when full grown. Your tank size is not ideal for a full group of this species and there are smaller 'bow species that would do much better.

The QT/hospital tank was a good idea...but it should also be established (ie. fully cycled) and not just aerated.
 

stephcps

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Jun 2, 2009
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Totally agree with Jpappy. The ammonia is the issue here. I have a tank full of bows and cories. Some are the australian rainbows. They are very gentle. But also will outgrow your tank. Any fish will pick on another if the other is weak. Ammonia kills fish.....simple.
 

huapala

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Jul 25, 2013
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Ke Aupuni Hawaii, Hawaiian Kingdom
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Huapala
I wrote this before but I guess it did not stick. Thank you all for your words of advice. Since posting last time my ammonia levels have dropped to zero ppm (0) but my nitrate is still at 40ppm. I think that the problem had to do with my pump. It had a lapse in running time of about 10hours or so in between that time it was not filtering the aquarium water through the plants this could have been a reason for the ammonia build up. I never thought or blamed the M. fluviatilis, I choose them for their calm/community friendly personalities. However, I am aware that the larger female enjoys attempting to eat anything floating on the surface of the tank, that is why I mentioned the M. fluviatilis in my original story, my choice to quarantine was based on my observations of the largest female M. fluviatilis who did take a few whacks at the troubled C. paleatus -but this is not to say that they are aggressive they just like to eat and mistook the weakened fish for a potential meal. Again thank you all, and thanks Jpappy for the info on hospital tanks. I am thinking about establishing one 15gallon tank to grow aquarium plants in, going to keep it fish free and just save it for when my fish need quarantine time.
 
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