DIY Tank Stand (36"L x 18"D x 30") for 40 Gallon Breeder Tank

[GraphicGr8s]

If you used a single sheet of plywood for the front face (on top of the 2x4s), that would provide lots of lateral strength (as well as vertical strength) - as long as it was thick enough. So you could probably do away with the middle two (2) legs in that sort of design. But I would probably use a different sort of tool than a circular saw to cut out the holes in the plywood.

Circ Saw works just fine if the plunge cut is done right. Even 1/4" plywood would be strong enough to prevent racking. l Use it all the time as a back to stop racking and to square up the carcass.

 

[GeoPappas]

Circ Saw works just fine if the plunge cut is done right. Even 1/4" plywood would be strong enough to prevent racking. l Use it all the time as a back to stop racking and to square up the carcass.

Being that I am the paranoid type, I would use thicker plywood (maybe 1/2" or 3/4"). In addition, if you want the stand to look good, you would want the face to have some thickness when you open the doors (at least IMHO).

 

[Doc7]

From former first-timer to current first timer, now that I have cut out my entire frame assembly (2x4s for the same frame you built), I believe my next steps will be to sand all the pieces and apply a couple coats of urethane, then assemble and apply filler to the gaps (between boards and where strong ties are) so water doesn't stay there.

I know you assembled and then applied filler/stain, is there a difference to the effectiveness of my process vs yours?

 

[GraphicGr8s]

Being that I am the paranoid type, I would use thicker plywood (maybe 1/2" or 3/4"). In addition, if you want the stand to look good, you would want the face to have some thickness when you open the doors (at least IMHO).

That is why I use it as a back. It fits into a rabbet in the sides and the top and bottom shelves. I was using 1/4" as an example. Actual thickness varies upon where you use the plywood. I'm almost done with a large library system for our spare room. All plywood carcasses with solid face frames. You can't see any plywood edges at all. But then again I've been making cabinets and whatnot as a hobby/semi pro for over 30 years. All that said I'd never use the technique of cutting openings in plywood. There's better ways to make cabinets. Call it what you want it's basic cabinet construction.

Key is if the OP is happy with how it turns out and it holds the tank for more than a minute it's all good.

 

[mellowvision]

I just want to point out that using a circular saw for plunge cutting plywood is one of the least safe things you can do with the tool, I would never recommend it to anyone. A plungerouter with a guide is a far better way to create an opening in a sheet.

 

[Slappy*McFish]

That is why I use it as a back. It fits into a rabbet in the sides and the top and bottom shelves. I was using 1/4" as an example. Actual thickness varies upon where you use the plywood. I'm almost done with a large library system for our spare room. All plywood carcasses with solid face frames. You can't see any plywood edges at all. But then again I've been making cabinets and whatnot as a hobby/semi pro for over 30 years. All that said I'd never use the technique of cutting openings in plywood. There's better ways to make cabinets. Call it what you want it's basic cabinet construction.

Key is if the OP is happy with how it turns out and it holds the tank for more than a minute it's all good.

As a fellow cabinet maker, I agree. A solid face frame (pocket screwed) would be the way to go and would look professional, as well.

 

[GraphicGr8s]

I just want to point out that using a circular saw for plunge cutting plywood is one of the least safe things you can do with the tool, I would never recommend it to anyone. A plungerouter with a guide is a far better way to create an opening in a sheet.

Plunge cuts with a circ are done all the time. Done correctly it's as safe as any other method. Technique is the key.

 

[GraphicGr8s]

As a fellow cabinet maker, I agree. A solid face frame (pocket screwed) would be the way to go and would look professional, as well.

Yeah this build I am doing is pocket screws. Still prefer the mortise and tenon though. I knew going into this project though I wouldn't have the time. I try to use the least amount of fasteners and prefer to rely on the joinery and glue. Today's glues are amazing.

 

[mellowvision]

There's really no room for argument here, plunge cutting with a circular saw is not a safe operation, and I have personally seen very experienced cabinet makers nearly lose limbs doing it. It is not recommended practice.

This thread is over 2 years old, and has gotten way off topic, so it will be closed. If there's a need for an additional 40 breeder stand thread, please start one or take part in a current discussion.