I'm using the salt + heat treatment for the Ich/Ick problem and I used Doc Wellfish's Aquarium Salt. Is it true that it has buffering ingredient in it? After adding the salt the tank water pH rises to > 7.0. My tank is supposed to be slightly acidic (last time I checked it was ~ 6.8). The product spec says it doesn't alter pH but I was wondering if anyone else here has experience with it?
Doc Wellfish's Aquarium Salt
- Thread starter philip02180
- Start date
If you are worried then you can switch to using table salt. It is mostly NaCl and I have never seen it affect my pH (and my buffer is quite low).
It wouldn't surprise me if the aquarium salt affected the buffer. That is kind of the reason many of us don't like to use it because we just don't know how it will affect things in the tank (the ingredient list isn't great).
It wouldn't surprise me if the aquarium salt affected the buffer. That is kind of the reason many of us don't like to use it because we just don't know how it will affect things in the tank (the ingredient list isn't great).
You can always use some rock salt (aka solar salt, sodium chloride) intended for a water softener system as well... it's about $4-6 for a 40lb-50lb bag.
Keep in mind that table salt has anti-caking agents added among other things... yech.
Keep in mind that table salt has anti-caking agents added among other things... yech.
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Suggest you read the rather long discussion on table salt in the Newbie forum here:Raithan Ellis said:
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62213&highlight=salt
Table salt is more than fine. I would use that before I use salt that is sold for water-conditioning. Actually, I wouldn't use THAT salt at all unless I absolutely knew what was in it.
Roan
Roan... I've been over that thread, it is a good discussion. Frankly, I don't agree with it entirely however. The primary argument in that thread is about it's toxicity at low saturation, which personally I see no problem with in low concentrations. However, do you ever hear of anyone using table salt for a brackish setup? Anyone care to experiment?
Iodized salts/table salts are not recommended in the aquaculture industry, actually it is strongly advised against. For every name you can throw at me that suggest there is no harm in such, I can throw a dozen aquaculture articles and college aquaculture reports that state the contrary.
Here is a clip from an article written on parasite treatments including ich, entitled:
Parasites in Paradise. Submitted for your approval; written by Dee Montgomery and James Brock, D.V.M. from the Hawaii State Aquaculture Development Program and Clyde S. Tamaru, Ph.D. with the Sea Grant Extension Service at the University of Hawaii...
"The salt should be non-iodized and should not contain yellow prussiate of soda (YPS), because prussic acid is toxic to fish."
Please note, I am not stating that all table salts contain YPS, on average this is not always the anti-caking compound used. However, what I do feel is anything above and beyond pure sodium chloride (aside from any minerals normally attributed with salt) is unnecessary and in my humble opinion, a pollutant however small the quantity, to your home aquaria.
Pure solar salts or "kiln-dried" salts (not the pellitized types with anti-caking agents) are what we use in the fishroom at That Fish Place for treatment and brackish setups, it's a heck of a lot cheaper too. This is the standard salt used in the aquaculture industry.
As per your comment on the solar salts used in potable water softener systems... if I may, I ask if you would consider reading up on it.
Iodized salts/table salts are not recommended in the aquaculture industry, actually it is strongly advised against. For every name you can throw at me that suggest there is no harm in such, I can throw a dozen aquaculture articles and college aquaculture reports that state the contrary.
Here is a clip from an article written on parasite treatments including ich, entitled:
Parasites in Paradise. Submitted for your approval; written by Dee Montgomery and James Brock, D.V.M. from the Hawaii State Aquaculture Development Program and Clyde S. Tamaru, Ph.D. with the Sea Grant Extension Service at the University of Hawaii...
"The salt should be non-iodized and should not contain yellow prussiate of soda (YPS), because prussic acid is toxic to fish."
Please note, I am not stating that all table salts contain YPS, on average this is not always the anti-caking compound used. However, what I do feel is anything above and beyond pure sodium chloride (aside from any minerals normally attributed with salt) is unnecessary and in my humble opinion, a pollutant however small the quantity, to your home aquaria.
Pure solar salts or "kiln-dried" salts (not the pellitized types with anti-caking agents) are what we use in the fishroom at That Fish Place for treatment and brackish setups, it's a heck of a lot cheaper too. This is the standard salt used in the aquaculture industry.
As per your comment on the solar salts used in potable water softener systems... if I may, I ask if you would consider reading up on it.
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I would also suggest that anyone fearing toxicity for the anticaking agents read up on that. Many agents are toxic in sufficient quantities or concentrations. But the fact remains that the aniti-caking agents in table salt or Kosher salt (both regullated and tested by the Feds) will have a wide margin of safety at aquarium dose levels. The fish would be killed by the brine solution well before toxity levels of the anti-caking agents were reached. "Aquarium salt" as marketed to the hobby is a totally undefined material, with no analyses presented or published, and without regularion in any form from anyone. NIMFT. The reference given would not be the first time doctors have written erroneously, especially in other than peer-reviewed publications.
the box of Dr. W salt i have is pretty old because i rarely use it (knock on wood), but it does say "all natural- made from EVAPORATED SEA WATER."
id say its entirely possible some other salts from sea water are acting as a buffer, increasing your pH slightly. seawater is usually around pH 8, so that might be your answer. i'm guessing some carbonates, or bicarbs hitched in dried on the NaCl crystals.
id say its entirely possible some other salts from sea water are acting as a buffer, increasing your pH slightly. seawater is usually around pH 8, so that might be your answer. i'm guessing some carbonates, or bicarbs hitched in dried on the NaCl crystals.