Hi, I am new to freshwater tanks. I have a 240 gal. reef tank. I have been doing saltwater tanks for 8 years. I just had a 150 gal. tank given to me. It has the lighting system for a reef (vho and pc). I was going to do salt with it,but really want to try fresh. I made the mistakes of salt by starting with fish only then to reef. The requirements are completely different and costly changes were made. I dont want to make the same mistakes with freshwater. I know in the future I will probably want to go plants. So, what kind of substate would you start with? I will be reading up on all that I can. Thanks, Tina
doing it right the first time
- Thread starter tmm
- Start date
The Basics Of starting up a new freshwater tank.
Before you do anything make sure any extra bits and bobs of the marine aquarium for the marine fish (eg. wave machines, different lighting requirements, salt in any equipment you have, wrong decor and coral etc) are gone and the right equipment is put in. Make sure you have fine gravel (1-3"), bog wood (boil it over and over to get out the brown tannins that will make the water go dark), if no real plants at the beginning then get some plactic ones as when your fish are put in, it will be a bit more homey for them. Also get some caves and the right heaters (x2 300w is fine), good external pump with places for bacteria to develop (fluval?), air pumps (x1 of the largest you can get, for a 150gal, or two if you want them to be really happy).
Fill it with water and dechlorinate it using normal dechlorinator leave it over a few days with the filter and heater (25degrees C) on. Get some bacterial tabs if you want the cycling process to be slightly faster. Add them after a few days of the heated water sitting there and being filtered. Turn on your airstones or bubble curtains. Wait for a few days and put in a little ammonia (very small ammount) into your water (DO NOT GET FISH YET!) get ammonia test kits, nitrite test kits, pH test kits and nitrate test kits (none of them strips if you want best results). Every day check the water levels and if they are relaxing add more and more ammonia (not too much) to simulate fish activity. In this way... it would be good to get a few plants to help your cycling process. Keep going for about 4-5 weeks (or if you used tabs could be shorter) but make sure when you start to think about getting fish the levels in your tank are: Ammonia: as close to 0 as poss, Nitrite: as close to 0 as poss, Nitrate: lower that 20ppm.
When you get fish only get at most 2 per week and DO NOT overstock.
(1" of fish per gallon is maximum for every new freshwater keeper)
Make sure they are all compatible.
Make sure you dont rush into anything! the longer you take over things the better chances you have of a healthy tank!
Have fun!
Need anything else? Just ask.
Before you do anything make sure any extra bits and bobs of the marine aquarium for the marine fish (eg. wave machines, different lighting requirements, salt in any equipment you have, wrong decor and coral etc) are gone and the right equipment is put in. Make sure you have fine gravel (1-3"), bog wood (boil it over and over to get out the brown tannins that will make the water go dark), if no real plants at the beginning then get some plactic ones as when your fish are put in, it will be a bit more homey for them. Also get some caves and the right heaters (x2 300w is fine), good external pump with places for bacteria to develop (fluval?), air pumps (x1 of the largest you can get, for a 150gal, or two if you want them to be really happy).
Fill it with water and dechlorinate it using normal dechlorinator leave it over a few days with the filter and heater (25degrees C) on. Get some bacterial tabs if you want the cycling process to be slightly faster. Add them after a few days of the heated water sitting there and being filtered. Turn on your airstones or bubble curtains. Wait for a few days and put in a little ammonia (very small ammount) into your water (DO NOT GET FISH YET!) get ammonia test kits, nitrite test kits, pH test kits and nitrate test kits (none of them strips if you want best results). Every day check the water levels and if they are relaxing add more and more ammonia (not too much) to simulate fish activity. In this way... it would be good to get a few plants to help your cycling process. Keep going for about 4-5 weeks (or if you used tabs could be shorter) but make sure when you start to think about getting fish the levels in your tank are: Ammonia: as close to 0 as poss, Nitrite: as close to 0 as poss, Nitrate: lower that 20ppm.
When you get fish only get at most 2 per week and DO NOT overstock.
(1" of fish per gallon is maximum for every new freshwater keeper)
Make sure they are all compatible.
Make sure you dont rush into anything! the longer you take over things the better chances you have of a healthy tank!
Have fun!
Need anything else? Just ask.
Trust me, I know the value of not rushing. I wont be using any of the equipment except for the lights. But if I want plants later on, do I really want fine gravel? What about flourite(sp?) and sand. As with salt water tanks, there is different substrates for different purposes. I dont want to start with one and have to change later. Why do you add amonia?? I thought the purpose of cycling is to rid the tank of it. Thanks, Tina
Last edited:
I am still considered a plant newb (~5 months into it) but i'd go with either flourite or eco complete. Both aren't cheap for big tanks (but i guess if you can afford such a huge reef the budget might not be so tight?).
There is a much cheaper alternative called "Soilmaster complete" - if you have a Lesco store around. I read about it on 2 very aquatic plant oriented pages and am going to try it for my next tank.
50lbs bag for ~$15 (plus minus a bit depending on where you are).
For lights - make sure they are in the right spectrum (5000-10000k),
As filter most people will probably suggest a quality canister - they help not to gass off all the precious CO2.
If you are serious about a planted tank you won't be able to go without CO2 injection - so plan on a pressurised system and the ~$150 investment that comes with it.
There is a much cheaper alternative called "Soilmaster complete" - if you have a Lesco store around. I read about it on 2 very aquatic plant oriented pages and am going to try it for my next tank.
50lbs bag for ~$15 (plus minus a bit depending on where you are).
For lights - make sure they are in the right spectrum (5000-10000k),
As filter most people will probably suggest a quality canister - they help not to gass off all the precious CO2.
If you are serious about a planted tank you won't be able to go without CO2 injection - so plan on a pressurised system and the ~$150 investment that comes with it.
As for substrate: Fine gravel is best as it holds more bits and pieces and the bacteria build up much more in it.
Both fluorite and laterite will be beneficial to a properly "balanced" tank. The nutrient provision form the substrate is balanced by sufficient lighting and maybe carbon dioxide addition. Even low-light planted tanks, a bit of Fluorite or laterite mixed with the substrate will have a bit of benefit. Though Fluorite does tend to be somewhat messier at first than laterite.
Sand is a no. Bacteria cand build up in it and its not good for most plecs as its easier for them to root around in the gravel.
When you add fish they create ammonia through their gills, and if there are no bactria to change it into nitrite your ammonia level will quickly become toxic, the nitrite is also toxic and other bacteria will change it into nitrate. Nitrate is much less toxic so a little bit is ok. To build up more bacteria to these levels you have to give them something to eat, ammonia or nitrite, and they will grow in number. Then when you get the fish in the tank there is already a build-up of the bacteria so you dont kill them with an ammonia spike and then a nitrite spike.
Anything else you need to know?
Im going to bed so e-mail me on jwddixon@tiscali.co.uk or post here and i will reply tomorrow.
Both fluorite and laterite will be beneficial to a properly "balanced" tank. The nutrient provision form the substrate is balanced by sufficient lighting and maybe carbon dioxide addition. Even low-light planted tanks, a bit of Fluorite or laterite mixed with the substrate will have a bit of benefit. Though Fluorite does tend to be somewhat messier at first than laterite.
Sand is a no. Bacteria cand build up in it and its not good for most plecs as its easier for them to root around in the gravel.
When you add fish they create ammonia through their gills, and if there are no bactria to change it into nitrite your ammonia level will quickly become toxic, the nitrite is also toxic and other bacteria will change it into nitrate. Nitrate is much less toxic so a little bit is ok. To build up more bacteria to these levels you have to give them something to eat, ammonia or nitrite, and they will grow in number. Then when you get the fish in the tank there is already a build-up of the bacteria so you dont kill them with an ammonia spike and then a nitrite spike.
Anything else you need to know?Im going to bed so e-mail me on jwddixon@tiscali.co.uk or post here and i will reply tomorrow.
Last edited:
Oh i forgot to mention (because the previous post is so focused on the nitrogen cycle) - if you start with lots of plants from the beginning (mainly fast growers) and take it easy on the fish load at first (introduce fish in small groups and slowly) you might never actually have to worry about a cycle because the plants use up all the ammonia.
It can make starting a FW tank very easy - but again works only if you can accept the fact that you can't add 50-100 fish to your 150G from the get go.
It can make starting a FW tank very easy - but again works only if you can accept the fact that you can't add 50-100 fish to your 150G from the get go.
Thanks, very useful info... I do want a planted tank. The more I read up on them the more attractive they are. Going to bed now too....will be up and studying more tomorrow!! Tina