I have a 55 gallon tank with a male fiddler crab and was wondering if i got another one would they fight?
Fiddler Crabs
- Thread starter mattjkirkpatric
- Start date
yes. you'd need a larger tank which allows more room between their territories in order to avoid it ... and though you didn't ask, here's some info on maintaining your fidler. if you already know this, great ... but so many people kill their fiddlers by poor care that i felt the need to provide this.
The fiddler crabs found in pet stores are most likely semi-terrestrial brackish crabs, which means they need some salt in their water as well as access to air and dry land. Unfortunately, many pet stores keep fiddlers in a freshwater aquatic set up, and recommend the same to new owners. They may do fine in a fresh water and fully aquatic set up for weeks, but will eventually become weak and die. If possible, find a store that keeps them in brackish water, or wait for a new shipment so their time spent in fresh water is minimal. Look for crabs that are active and have all their legs and claws.
Because most of these crabs are naturally from brackish waters, most experts recommend putting salt in the water. The ideal amount of salt to add is controversial, but it is probably best to get a hydrometer and add enough salt to the water to attain a specific gravity of around 1.005 - 1.010. Hydrometers are not all that expensive and can be found at pet stores and also home brewing shops. Alternatively, your package of aquarium salt may have instructions for producing brackish water conditions. It is okay to vary the salt concentration/specific gravity slightly as these crabs would naturally experience some variations in salinity.
Some provision should be made to provide the crabs with access to land/air. Owners that do not do this often find their crabs crawling up the filter intake and into or on top the filter in an attempt to find land. Providing a sloped bottom to the tank with part of the gravel or sand out of the water works well. Alternatively, use a partly filled tank with large rocks on which the crabs can climb out of the water.
In the wild fiddler crabs are scavengers, eating bits of organic matter they find in the sand/mud. In captivity, they can be fed sinking crab food, fish food meant for scavengers (sinking tablets, shrimp pellets, etc), and freeze dried plankton and shrimp.
Signs of health in fiddler crabs include growth and regular molting. Once a crab molts, their previous exoskeleton will likely be whole in the tank, looking eerily like a ghost. It is a good idea to leave the exoskeleton in the tank, at least for a week or so. Often the crabs will ingest part of the shed exoskeleton, and it serves as an excellent source of calcium (which they need to produce their new exoskeletons). Claws and legs may be lost but will regenerate over a couple of molts.
The fiddler crabs found in pet stores are most likely semi-terrestrial brackish crabs, which means they need some salt in their water as well as access to air and dry land. Unfortunately, many pet stores keep fiddlers in a freshwater aquatic set up, and recommend the same to new owners. They may do fine in a fresh water and fully aquatic set up for weeks, but will eventually become weak and die. If possible, find a store that keeps them in brackish water, or wait for a new shipment so their time spent in fresh water is minimal. Look for crabs that are active and have all their legs and claws.
Because most of these crabs are naturally from brackish waters, most experts recommend putting salt in the water. The ideal amount of salt to add is controversial, but it is probably best to get a hydrometer and add enough salt to the water to attain a specific gravity of around 1.005 - 1.010. Hydrometers are not all that expensive and can be found at pet stores and also home brewing shops. Alternatively, your package of aquarium salt may have instructions for producing brackish water conditions. It is okay to vary the salt concentration/specific gravity slightly as these crabs would naturally experience some variations in salinity.
Some provision should be made to provide the crabs with access to land/air. Owners that do not do this often find their crabs crawling up the filter intake and into or on top the filter in an attempt to find land. Providing a sloped bottom to the tank with part of the gravel or sand out of the water works well. Alternatively, use a partly filled tank with large rocks on which the crabs can climb out of the water.
In the wild fiddler crabs are scavengers, eating bits of organic matter they find in the sand/mud. In captivity, they can be fed sinking crab food, fish food meant for scavengers (sinking tablets, shrimp pellets, etc), and freeze dried plankton and shrimp.
Signs of health in fiddler crabs include growth and regular molting. Once a crab molts, their previous exoskeleton will likely be whole in the tank, looking eerily like a ghost. It is a good idea to leave the exoskeleton in the tank, at least for a week or so. Often the crabs will ingest part of the shed exoskeleton, and it serves as an excellent source of calcium (which they need to produce their new exoskeletons). Claws and legs may be lost but will regenerate over a couple of molts.