First 10 Gal. Tank, First post

Wow I am amazed at all the responses I got just overnight, thank you. now as for what I'm cycling with I only put in API stress coat which is water conditioner, and API stress zyme which I'm sure i need something else for ammonia. I decided to go to the local pet store to get plants, I used to go there when i had reptiles. I wil post a reply when i get back and test my water parameters for 24 hour mark.

thanks
 
OK so got two fern looking plants in the tank now, Called anacharis. got a new hood with a fluorescent light in it. Here are my parameters after about 24 hours.....

NO2 0.3mg/l or lower, NH3/NH4 0mg/l and my water is somewhere between 82 and 86 so i unplugged my heater for a little bit. any suggestions on what other tests i should run ill post pics in next post for you guys......
 
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I just wanted to post an update. Not long after adding the plant, I was eating ice cream just watching TV and had the light off for a bit and suddenly turned it back on to test hardness and PH levels........ I saw something run across the rocks. I now have 3 ghost shrimp i believe that are twice the size of a pin head living in my tank......

thanks for the support guys......
 
wow nice ornaments, i laughed at the picture frame
get a backround at it will look great
 
Is that one of those "pre-set" heaters, that you can't adjust? I've never had one. And glad I haven't if thats the temp they're pre-set at.
OR
The stick on the "out-side" thermometers, I've never had any luck with. They tend to give you a mix between room temp and water temp.
I've used alot of floating thermometers. And just lately have been converting to these... http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3744+12089&pcatid=12089
I have 5 of these now. They were on sale for $5.?? when I was getting them.
I tested my first one againt a floating thermometer. Not that I know if it was accurate. It tested real close to it. Then I've tested all of my new digitals to the first one, and all have been with in .3. Except for one of the last two. Which was .4 off.
Not too bad of an outcome, compared to way back when I tested a bunch of floaters against each other, and got a few degrees difference.
I've really liked these digitals. You can see just how much of a temp swing your tank gets through out the day.
I have a 300wt heater in my 30g. Its what I had on hand at the time. I'll see a degree or so change during the day. But my 20g with a 100wt can change 3 or 4 degrees.

I'm still somewhat new to plants. But the anacharis should be fine.
I had some a long time ago, and seemed to have alot of leaf shedding. I didn't have much light then, which could have been the problem? I have some now, and haven't had any problem with it. But it was growing under 96wts with co2 in a 30g, that was only 13" from the light to the substrate.

Take the weights off of the plants! Remove about an inch of leaves from the bottom of the stem(IE, remove any leaves that would end up in the substrate). And put the stem in the substrate.

Grats! on the ride along shrimps. : )

And just curious... whats the pH, KH, GH lvls?
Most likely(deffinately) will use what ever comes out of your tap. But yea, just curious.
 
PH 7.5, GH 5 I didn't measure KH and my heater is adjustable and I'm probably going to get a different thermometer today. I'm ready to put 6 Zebra Danios within the next couples days, since I've been told they almost live through anything.
 
Did a water test this afternoon, no ammonia and no nitrites so in went 3 long fin zebra danios...... Thy keep nipping at the rocks I just hope they didn't eat my pin head size ghost shrimp lol
 
Welcome to AC. :welcome:This is a great place to learn all about fishkeeping.

Don't add any more fish. Danios are hardy, but really the majority of experienced fishkeepers here prefer to do a fishless cycle. It is actually faster than with fish, because now you have absolutely got to keep the ammonia as close to 0 as possible and then the nitrites as close to 0 as possible or your fish will suffer.

You have to do this by diligent monitoring of the parameters and responding immediately by doing water changes with dechlorinated, temperature matched water. You will need to keep the detritus to a minimum by vacuuming the substrate periodically.

Ammonia burns their gills and skin, and nitrites prevent the uptake of oxygen in the gills. Being subected to the swings of those harmful byproducts in your tank can wreak havoc with the immune system of the fish, leaving them susceptible to disease and/or parasites, and can make them suffer.

You will need to do water changes everytime you find ammonia and then nitrites in the tank. Certainly .25 or less and really water changes should be done anytime you find any detecable levels of ammonia or then nitrites.

If you can get Prime by Seachem this will really help protect your fish during the cycle process. Prime not only removes chlorine and chloramines, but it detoxifies ammonia and nitrites for appx 24 hours in the tank.

That can come in handy when you find detectable levels of ammonia and/or nitrites. You can follow the directions on the bottle and dose the tank to detoxify the ammonia and nitrites, giving you some time to do the water changes.

Hang in there and stay on top of things and always feel free to ask questions here on AC. Never think any question is dumb, (I am speaking from experience in asking many questions I thought were dumb, but no one ever treated me that way) and follow the advice of these guys.

Don't listen to the pet store people, no offense intended, but they want to sell you things and a lot of times those folks don't really have accurate knowledge.

The folks here keep fish and have been keeping fish for years and years. They know their stuff and really want to help. They have been through everything the beginning fishkeeper experiences, all the mishaps and mistakes. ( I speak from experience here, too, lol.)

Again, welcome to AC.:thm:
 
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