Fluval 404 Priming Problem

[orgetorix]

posted Tue November 04 2003 11:09 AM
I have a Fluval 404 canister filter that I want to use as a pump to diffuse CO2. The problem is that I can't get the darn thing to prime. I followed the instructions in the manual and...nothing. It seems that it doesn't want to pump up the the return.

Here is something I did do to get it to work. I took it to my kitchen and filled the sink with water. I placed the filter on the floor and was able to get it to siphon water from the sink to a bucket on the floor next to the filter.

When I move the hose back up to the sink though (similar to the situation it would be in my tank) the siphon stops.

I did some fiddling around and got it to finally work in the second diagram, but I'm not sure how and was unable to replicate in the aquarium. All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[bobalston]

Here is a post I read and some other notes about Fluval priming:

Aquarium – Fluval – Restarting after Cleaning

Message 7 in thread
From: Lou (ldemersNOldSPAM@wans.net.invalid)
Subject: Re: Trouble setting up new tank and filter


View this article only

Newsgroups: rec.aquaria.marine.misc
Date: 1999/11/10
To avoid getting that mouthful of water and get things flowing easily I
leave the fluval empty w/valves open, and disconnect the hose at the
top of the tank at the return . Suck on this hose and you will hear the
canaster filling with water. Reconnect the hose, let it fill and turn
it on. You should be all set.

Seems like above would resolve problem of debris coming out of the INTAKE hose back into the tank, such as happened 3/1/2003.


Also suggested putting the output hose into a bucket to catch any debris from the hose. Do until the water comes out clean – then put back into the tank.

Bob

 

[125gJoe]

(This may be moved to the Aquarium Products and DIY Forum.)

Anyway, Fluvals can be a real pain to get started.. ('nother reason to get Filstar Xp-3 or 2...)
First, make sure the canister is full of water. I mean to the very top. You may want to let it settle some so the sponge and other media absorbs the water. You don't want air pockets and you should never have to risk TWM.. (Tank Water Mouth)
Your Fluval may seem like it's dying, but there's no need for mouth to mouth on the thing..

When you have everthing in place and the top is properly sealed, turn it on and prime it some. Now, Important step here -- shake the filter by wobbling it from side to side. You should hear some air pockets moving up to the top of the canister and out of the outlet tube. Repeat several times, and it should be fine.. Do more priming if needed .

 

[anonapersona]

I do start with the canister full like 80gJoe does, but I have a heck of a time closing the fluval canister when the hose valves are shut. I have to let valve one leak a bit, which means that the canister has to be in a bucket while I'm doing this. I keep the intake line full of water to keep it primed, and let the output line leak a bit to help me get the canister shut.

When I turn it on, I try to be sure the tank isn't completely full, so that the return is above the water line. In fact that might be the problem here, with the return too low in the tank, the pressure required to push a bubble out may be too much for the unit. My outlet is just about 3 inches down from the surface, and it makes a heck of a mess on the wall behind the tank if the tank is full when those bubbles come out of the filter. If you had a spray bar mounted down low, it might never be able to push a bubble down that far.

Try it again, with the outlet line disconnected or such that it is above the water line, so bubbles can get out.

 

[Ramirez]

I have a Fluval 304 and had a helluva time learning how to use it. Basically I have found to make sure both input and output lines are full of water at disconnect and that the canister is full of water when reconnected to the hose. I've found it is easiest to put the top back on the canister when the hoses are disconected. When the hoses have been reconnected, the valves opened, and then the filter plugged in, I usually push/pull the primer a few times.

The very first time you run the filter i.e. hoses empty, I've found it easiest to just fill the hoses with aquarium water before starting the pump.

 

[DIYMatt]

I agree the Fluvals can be a pain. Another vote for Filstars here, too.

But, what helped mine start easier was to shorten the tubes to the intake and output so they go continously up to the tank. No, slack to hang down at all. Mine used to go out a whole in the back of the stand, sag down a little than go up to the other side of the tank. It would kind of airlock at the high point going out the hole. Now, I only have to worry about it when I clean the inside of the tubing like 2-3 a year, then the primer does the trick. Also, I have had better luck when both my intake and output are below the surface of the water. But, then again mine fills backwards when it is totally empty.

BTW- does that tubing just frustrate the hell out of anyone else like it does me? It is really the only canister that I have to use a tubing brush to clean because of those ridges.

 

[125gJoe]

Originally posted by DIYMatt
I agree the Fluvals can be a pain. Another vote for Filstars here, too....BTW- does that tubing just frustrate the hell out of anyone else like it does me? It is really the only canister that I have to use a tubing brush to clean because of those ridges.

I hate the Fluval tubing! The ridges DO collect gunk. So far, the water pressure from the garden hose has been enough to clean out the crud build-up inside the Fluval tubes, or hoses. Someone was able to replace the original hoses with smooth tubing from Home Depot. But, I'm not sure how they are fastened. Next cleaning I'm going to try and replace the hoses. If it works, I'll post what size (diameter) hose to get so others can benefit with a 'Fluval upgrade by DIY'.....