Goldfish just floating,Almost dead.HELP!!!

[loveclaywell]

So i've had three common goldfish for a long time,Then I got a new black moor.He looked like he had Ich, but I treated it and I don't think thats the problem now.I had a ph and ammonia problem because I ran out of test strips,But I bought more and some ph correcting tablets.My other fish are fine but my black moor(Arnold)Is acting sick.Yesterday he was floating in the corner at the top of the tank.Last night he got stuck on the filter twice so I thought he was dead.But when I unplugged the filter he floated off.Now he is just sorta sitting at the bottom.Anything like a current causes him to float off like he has no strength to swim.I don't know whats wrong?? I put in some all in one lifegaurd treatment but I don't know.Should I put him in a hospital tank all alone so he can rest?Please help!:help:

 

[metricliman]

What are the water parameters, tank size, food, and filtration?

 

[loveclaywell]

To be honest,I don't understand what the parameters is?The ph is 7, tank size is 50 gallons(small,I know).,Food is wardley goldfish flakes and filtration?I don't know,I have two filters.

 

[AquaticAustin]

Parameters are nitrate. nitrite. Ammonia and imo ph is unimportant as long as it is stable. I wouldnt is tablets to alter the ph at all

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[loveclaywell]

Okay, but what should I do for the fish?Should I move him to a hospital tank?

 

[Dangerdoll]

I agree, the pH is important in keeping stable and that is all. Just think.... if you are changing the water and have to change the pH, you will constantly be doing that. IMO, it's a waster of money. The fish will adjust to the tap pH as long as it is consistent. You really need to know the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels because that is what tells you what is going on with the cycle of the tank. Stop adding the chems to the tank and start with changing the water instead. A lot of things can be resolved with water changes. How often do you do water changes on the tank? If you do not do this often (once a week), you will need to start small so as not to shock the system and the fish. I would say 10% of the water every other day for a week or so, then move it up to 20% for another week and watch the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. Once they are stabilizing, you can move to 50% weekly or more if you want. As long as your ammonia and nitrate levels balance out to 0 and your nitrate levels are in the appropriate level, you will be in good shape. The goal you are trying to reach is the stabilizing of these 3 levels.

 

[loveclaywell]

Okay,Thank you.I understand now.Also,I do water changes once a week,about 30%.

 

[SANDYBOTTOM]

get a good liquid test kit, the strips are unreliable and expensive. how big are your commons? if you go by 1st fish 30 gallons for single tail varieties, each additional 20 gallons. you are horribly overstocked. what kind of filtration do you have? he probably has ammonia damage. clamped fins and listlessness are among the symptoms also red streaking that you may not see as he is a moor. any swelling also around the eyes,gills,or anus. you really need to either get a bigger tank or do 60-70% wc weekly (you can split into two) and up your filtration a lot. whats gonna help your moor is clean water and better tank maintenance. they can handle ph up to 7.5 and do best in water in the 70-72 deg. range. not best kept with commons who prefer cooler temps. they are prone to illness in tanks with poor maintenance. that's why he looks sick, but not the commons.

 

[loveclaywell]

Okay,Thank you.

 

[metricliman]

So what size is your tank?


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