Help Wanted with Angelfish Breeding

FishDreamer48

AC Members
May 25, 2009
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Kentucky
I have a couple on Angelfish that are currently in a tank by themselves. That have laid eggs and appear to have finished fertilizing and are not fanning them. I have read up on food and stuff, but can someone help me out. A couple of the eggs are already white two that I can see out of at least 20+. I would like to let them parent raise as it appears that I have a pair, but need information on food for the babies and other advice. If I have to have brine shrimp or something for the babies should they hatch I need someone to get some from. Basically I need people to give me an idiot's guide to breeding Angelfish. I am ordering another type of fish to go in the tank they are currently in so after this batch has hatched and been moved I plan to move them to a 20 gallon so that they can have their own tank still. Thoughts, suggestions?
 
Breeding Angelfish

Angelfish egg laying and fertilization

The Angelfish eggs will be deposited on the spawning slate and placed in very neat and evenly spaced lines. If she doesn’t like the spawning slate, she will deposit the eggs somewhere else in the aquarium. The male Angelfish will fertilize the eggs by following close behind the female and touching all the eggs with his papilla. If you keep only female Angelfish, one of the females might actually resume a male behaviour and follow the egg-laying female and touch the eggs. Those eggs will naturally remain unfertilized and become white within a few days.

Angelfish egg and fry care

Several methods are used by Angelfish breeders to protect eggs and fry from hungry adult fish. Some remove all fish except the breeding pair from the aquarium, while other breeders choose to remove the breeding pair instead and place them in a special breeding aquarium. Some remove less dominant males until only the most dominant male is left with the females in the aquarium. This method also involves removing all non-gravid females from the aquarium.

All adult Angelfish pose a treat to the eggs, and many breeders will therefore place the eggs in their own tank as soon as the eggs have been fertilized. The easiest way is to put a special spawning slate in the aquarium before the spawning takes place. The parent fish will deposit the egg on the spawning slate, and the spawning slate can be easily moved afterwards. A clay pot, poly pipe or a piece of smooth surfaced tile will all work as spawning slates. The eggs will survive a brief moment out of the water when you lift them from one aquarium to the other, but try to make the move as fast as possible.

If you do not wish to keep all your fry, you can let the eggs stay in the aquarium with the adult fish. If you provide your fry with suitable hiding places, such as heavily planted areas, at least a few of them will reach adulthood. Be aware of strong filtration, since small fry can be sucked into filter systems.

If your Angelfish pair has never spawned before, it is usually a good idea to let them spawn once or twice in their normal aquarium “on their own” without your meddling. If you move them to a breeding aquarium during their first spawning they might be confused and stop the spawning process. It is normal for the parents to eat the eggs from their first spawning, and if this happens the female will usually deposit eggs again after just a few weeks.

Newly deposited Scalare eggs are transparent or semi-transparent, with a pale yellow colouration. If the eggs are not fertilized, they will start turning white after approximately 24 hours. If they have not been eaten by other inhabitants of the aquarium, unfertilized Scalare eggs will be attacked by fungus and start looking very fuzzy after roughly 48 hours. 48 hours after being deposited, fertilized eggs on the other hand will begin showing wiggling fry tails. On day three, tadpole shapes with large yolk sacks will be visible. The tadpoles will still be attached to the breeding slate. If the parent Angelfish are still in the same aquarium as the egg, the parents will now start to move the small fry around. On the fourth day you will be able to see tiny eyes on the fry and on the fifth day the yolks will start shrinking. Very soon the first fry will be free swimming. During day seven the fry will usually start getting hungry since their energy from the yolk have been consumed.


Suitable tank for Angelfish fry

If you decide to raise the Angelfish eggs and fry in a special aquarium, a 5-10 gallon (19-38 litres) tank will be suitable, but even a tank no larger than 2 gallons will usually work. You do not need to cover the egg and fry aquarium. If you allow the parent Scalare to accompany their offspring in the aquarium, the parents will keep the eggs clean and protect them from mould. If the eggs are kept without the parents, you must use fungicide to prevent fungus attacks. Make sure that the water temperature in the raising tank is the same as in the parent's old aquarium. An air stone in the raising aquarium will make it easier to maintain high oxygen levels. Keep the water quality good by frequently removing any dead fry and left over food. Regular water changes are also a must. Typically, a lot of the Scalare fry will die. You might have to remove dead fry from the aquarium three times a day or more. During the first three weeks, water changes can be necessary as often as once a day.


Feeding Angelfish fry

You can start feeding your Angelfish fry around 7 days after the eggs were deposited. Angelfish fry can survive 12 hours without food, but should ideally be fed four or five times a day. Newly hatched Brine Shrimp (Artemia nauplii) are a good first food for Angelfish fry. If the fry is too small to consume the Brine Shrimp, you can buy the fry special fry food from a pet shop or fish store. The survival rate for Angelfish fry is usually very much lover when the fry is fed dead food instead of live food (such as live Brine Shrimp). When the fry are a few weeks old it is time to make them grow accustomed to flake foods. Turn the flake food into a powder or press it through a fine screen before feeding it to the fry.
 
Okay that and what I have read answers my questions. Does anyone have a Brine Shrimp (Artemia nauplii) for sale and can they walk me through hatching procedures please?
 
hatching procedures for the brine shrimp or the angelfish?
 
Rats got a mirror to see the rest of the eggs, looks like 50+ are white with only about 20 still transparent. Hopefully I have a pair though and the rest will pull through!
 
just 20 left? hope they come through!

remember, the warmer the water, the faster the eggs hatch!
 
Hatching for brine shrimp, wasn't very specific was I...
 
Yeah the current temp is like 78 degrees F, but I have been working on getting the temp up since the weather has been cold.
 
hm all right... I hatched some before

Brine Shrimp Hatching Procedures


  1. Materials
  2. Clean 1 gallon Jar.
  3. 3/16" Rigid air tube long enough to extend from bottom of jar to beyond the jar top several inches.
  4. Salt Water at 1.016 - 1.025 specific gravity. (I like around 1.018.)
  5. light (24 hours, but keep water temp below 800 and above 700)
  6. 1 teaspoon or less Brine Shrimp cysts per gallon
  7. 100 micron screen sieve.
  8. 1/4" diameter, 3 ft long siphone tube.
    I use gallon glass jars to hatch brine shrimp cysts. I like them because they are clear and that helps in collecting them after hatch. We hatch brine shrimp morning and night.
    Procedure for hatching
  9. Fill clean jug with salt water.
  10. Put in rigid tubing and attach to air - medium to high bubble rate for a good churn.
  11. Add 1 teaspoon of BS cysts to water.
  12. Turn on light if you haven't already done so.
  13. Wait 24 hours.
    After 24 hours, the color of the hatching water should turn a slight orange which means there are little BS nauplii swimming around with the cysts. So, take the jar off air, and settle it near a sink for about 5-10 minutes. The hatched cysts will float to the top, the brine shrimp nauplii will swim in the middle/top, and the unhatched cysts will float to the bottom.
    Procedure for collecting
  14. Taking 1/4" siphon tube in hand, blow softly on the top of the hatching jar to spread the cysts.
  15. Insert the siphon and draw the culture water through the other end of the siphon tube to start a siphon. Siphon the water into the 100 micron sieve, allowing the water to escape down the sink drain.
  16. Keep the culture end of the siphon tube below the surface of the hatching water, and avoid siphoning the floating hatched cysts, while moving the end deeper into the hatching jar.
  17. Also, avoid going to deep into the hatching jar with the siphon tube, to prevent picking up the unhatched cysts as well.
  18. When the majority of the hatching water has been siphoned off, then pull the siphon tube out of the hatching jar quickly to break the siphon.
  19. Rinse the nauplii in the 100 micron sieve, then pour them into a small container for you to feed or to move to an aquarium to grow out.
I use a spray bottle to rinse them out, and a very dense BS net to collect them. I also use a 100 micron sieve. If I am going to growout the BS nauplii, I use a small bowl and fill it with salt water, then I place the sieve in this bowl. As I siphon, the water goes through the sieve, fills the bowl, and then over the edge of the bowl into the sink. This keeps the nauplii from being caught on the sieve screen, preventing some damage to the nauplii when collecting them. If, by chance, you let the nauplii settle too long, they will all be on the bottom of the hatching jar. They will die if you let them sit over several hours. But if you siphon them off within approximately a two hour period, place them in a fresh container,add new salt water, and aeriate them, they will revive (if they haven't sat too long.) I've been using these methods for almost 14 years, and I find the procedures to work extremely well. Good luck and Happy Hatching!
Note on nutrition and keeping nauplii:
I recommend feeding the nauplii right away with a suitable food such as rotirich, algae, or something similar, as this keeps them alive for a much longer period (up to adulthood), and increases their nutritional value. Although, they can be refridgerated, and used the next day, if so desired (they will slowly loose nutritional value.) After 48 hours in the fridge, they will start to decompose... chuck em.
GROWING OUT BRINE SHRIMP TO GET ADULTS :)


  • Hatch about 1/2 tsp of brine shrimp cysts.
  • Harvest your brine shrimp nauplii and place them in a 10 gallon tank with moderate air through a rigid tube and water at sp 1.020 - 1.023.
  • Feed them daily either plankton feed or a suitable small particulate feed (there are several).
  • If you have to change the water, use a bucket, put fresh Salt water in the bottom about 1/2 inch, and siphon the tank water into a sieve you hold inside the bucket. Hold the bottom of the sieve (screen area) in the water, and position the output of the siphon against the sieve side at an angle so that it swirls the water. Raise the sieve with the rising water level. Then put the Brine shrimp caught in the sieve back into the 10 gallon tank, and fill the 10 gallon with new salt water.
Adults will show up in about 10 days.
Full sized adults take about a month.
 
just 20 left? hope they come through!

remember, the warmer the water, the faster the eggs hatch!

huh? angel eggs hatch in approx 3 days..tank water should remain stable
the fry will be wigglers at this stage but in 3-4 days any survivors will be free swimmers. (and will be ready for feeding)

if this is the first spawn I wouldn't worry much.. it is possible that you have females BTW
 
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