How do you keep 55g XP3 canister with O2?

[pzuzu]

Hello,

Just wondering what the best method is to keep a 55g tank in good aeration when using a canister filter. I have a powerhead in there now that I attached a hose to and poke little holes into it (to get the water to lose some momentum as it travels through it. On the other side of the hose I attached one of the parts for the canister filter that I don't use to send the aerated water straight to the middle of the tank. The powerhead is attached on the back of the tank, the hose is suction cupped against the glass and you can see the bubbles striking against the glass on the front of the tank.

I guess my concern is that I have too much current: the inlet/outlet pipes of the canister, the powerhead, and a co2 reactor (which has yet another powerhead attached to it). Oh, and I also have a little bubble wand attached to the glass beneath the filter outlet so the current forces SOME of the bubles down.

Is there an easier method? Right now I'm using an airpump with two outlets. Should I maybe get rid of the air wand and send all the air straight into the powerhead? Is there a way to perhaps attach the air tubing into the filter outlet so I no longer have to use the powerhead?

Just by looking into the tank, I can tell the powerhead is way more effective, the bubbles are finer and have to travel through the hose, so it keeps them submersed slightly longer, like half a second... heh...but they are much finer and actually float to all parts of the tank midway up the tank's height.

Oh, and if anybody knows...will this go against my co2 reactor, or will that still work fine? I think I've read somewhere that o2 tends to bump out the co2 from the water a lot faster. If that's the case, it is a HUGE concern for me, and I need an alternate plan...which I don't have. In this particular tank, the plants are more important. The fish decorate the plants...heh.

Any thoughts will be appreciated!
Thanks!
Fernando

 

[patoloco]

Canister filters normally use spray bars (long tube with a lot of holes) to return the water to the tank in a "shower" fashion. This will be enough to break the water surface and provide the gas exchange you are looking for. If the filter is large enough for your tank, you can get rid of the bubble wands and power heads.

However, here comes the catch. When you are dosing CO2 you want the water to be as calm as possible. A lot of surface breaking will make the CO2 leave the water at a faster rate, so you might need to look for another method.

I have my 50 gl tanmk with a Penplax Cascade 1000 canister, and I set the spray bar underwater, with the holes facing upwards. This way, water is drwn by the inlet pipe from the bottom, forced trhu the filter ansd is then pmuped back towards the surface. There is good filtration, low current and I've not seen low-oxigen behaviour in my fish.

However, if you are planning this, I'd recommend you to get an O2 and a CO2 test kit to monitor your particular results. Having a way to meausre your disolved gases may lead you to a better set up .

Pat.

 

[Roan Art]

CO2 and O2 tests don't work. Really. I was told by a SeaChem rep over the phone that they will only work if you do the test right over the tank and mix everything *immediately*. I asked him if that was his way of saying they didn't work and he didn't answer me

You don't want bubble wands in a tank with plants and CO2. Consider them cancelled out.

FWIW you should go to the Plants forum and start reading and post any questions in there.

Roan