i'm a virgin help!

princessbobsie

AC Members
Sep 18, 2006
75
0
0
36
England
i've been thinking about settingup a saltwater tank for ages i bought a 25gallon tank and a protien skimmer/air pump and sand..rocks(not live) i'm about to add water and was wondering what do i have to put into the water? and what temp should i set the heater at. thankyou!
 
A few questions:

1. Is the sand also NOT live sand?
2. What kind of water are you thinking of using? Is it some that you mixed or did you buy it at your LFS?
 
Since many have asked this question, and having recently cycled my tank, I've saved all the information I got about the cycling process. I've typed out a general guidline that you could follow. Please note that this is only a fishless method as I personally prefer not to put any livestock (as hardy as they might be) through the stress and damage that the cycling process can cause them.

Fishless Cycling

Firstly, since you don’t have any live rock or sand (I’m assuming that) you’ll need something to get the ammonia going in the tank. There’s 3 ways you could go about doing that:

Method 1. You could add a medium sized raw prawn/shrimp to the tank and wait for it to start rotting (probably take it 2 days or so). A little piece of friendly advice – put the prawn in a pantyhose and then stick it in the tank as once the prawn decomposes, it’ll pretty much disintegrate and create a big mess in your tank when you need to take it out. When the shrimp decomposes, it will create ammonia (NH3), which you should start seeing on your daily tests. The NH3 will eventually spike, and then decline when the NH3 eating bacteria take over. When this happens, your nitrITE (NO2) will start to rise. Similarly this will lead to a NO2 spike at first, then NO2 eating bacteria will break it down, leading up to its decline. The declining NO2 will cause a rise in the nitrATE (NO3). At this point, your NH3 and NO2 levels should both be testing out to at 0ppm. Once you see that they have checked out at 0ppm over a few days, its fairly safe to assume that your tank is cycled. A good way to test this is by using PURE ammonia to dose your tank. This is not an absolutely necessary step but you can do it just to double check. Use only pure ammonia as I have listed in Method 2. You will need to add a few drops of the NH3 so that the NH3 levels in your tank get bumped up to maybe 1ppm. Test your water in 12-24 hours and see if either any ammonia or nitrites show up. If neither show up, your tank is cycled. Once your tank cycle is complete, you will need to do a fairly large water change to bring the nitrATES down. Just a warning about using this method: the decomposing prawn may cause a pretty bad stench (it did in my case) – so make sure the room that the tank is in has plenty of open windows/air circulation.

Method 2. Instead of using the prawn to create the ammonia spike, you can simply start off with pure ammonia. A very important thing to remember here is that you have to use PURE ammonia only – one without any additives or perfumes in it. The household cleaning stuff is perfect for this use, but make absolutely sure that it does not contain any additives or perfumes before using it! It should be free of surfactants, perfumes, and colorants. Always read the ingredients on the bottle. If it doesn't list the ingredients or say Clear Ammonia (or Pure Ammonia or 100% Ammonia, or Pure Ammonium Hydroxide), then leave it on the shelf and look elsewhere. Shake the bottle if you're not sure about it because Ammonia with additives will foam, while "good" Ammonia will not. You start off by adding X drops amount of NH3 until a level of 5ppm is achieved. This X amount of drops has to be added daily until the nitrITES spike. Afterwards follow up with ½ X (from previous step) amount of NH3 drops daily until NO2 is 0ppm causing a nitrATE peak. Once again, once both NH3 and NO2 have checked out at 0ppm over several days, and your tank is cycled, do a large water change to reduce the NO3. I personally don’t like this method a whole lot since it stresses out the tank a fair bit.

Method 3. This is basically the same as method 1. Instead of using a prawn, you can simply add fish food to the tank, and let it decompose, creating the NH3. This might take a little longer, and you might be left with lots of decaying food in the tank.

Please keep in mind that using any of the above three method creates only a certain amount of bacteria colonies capable of handling a limited amount of ammonia. So, always start to stock slowly, as rushing things might cause another ammonia spike, which is not good for the livestock you’ll have in the tank.

Let me know if you have any more questions. Also, do read the "sticky" that Max has put up regardin the SW cycle in this forum.

Regards,
Yash
 
Last edited:
the sand isnt live either. should i use tap water? what type of salt is needed? what ph should the water be at and how do i get it?
 
Just as a little side note to yash absolutly awsome explanation ( am impressed yash !!!! )..If possible, you do need to start off with a little live rock because you need something that has life in it to seed the sand and base rock..Even if you only manage to get hold of a few pounds of live rock and cup or two of live sand put on your existing sand, it will start the growth process off for you, because if everything is in effect dead ( sand and rock ) it will take an age to get the living organisms to take hold...

Just my 2p worth

HTH

Niko
 
Another note on the water...If you can afford it, buy a Reverse Osmosis Unit ( RO ) for the water in your tank..Usually, tap water is no where near good enough quality for use in an aquarium. If you cant afford, speak to your Local Fish Shop ( LFS ) and enquire if they sell it..Using tap water will probably be ok for your first initial fill, but will cause bad algae blooms if you continue to use it..

On salt, cant really comment a great lot because i am in the UK and and dont know what salts are available to you.. I personally use Instant Ocean salt, it provides a nice stable enviroment for the tank and fish and i dont have to add any additives to the tank..You want to be aiming for a pH of about 8.3 to 8.5..But, your pH will be dependant on what you are going to be keeping in their..

Can you tell us what you are thinking of keeping so we may be able to best advise on any other equipment you may need..

Good luck, have plenty of patience....And welcome to salt water

Niko
 
Thanks for the correction Niko ... I should've mentioned that a piece of rock or some sand from an established tank would help greatly in speeding things up. I'll edit my writeup to include that. Yeah, I found myself answering "how to cycle" questions (more so specific to the shrimp or pure ammonia methods) that I just decided to sit down and write the whole thing out ... that way I have it handy to post whenever someone wonders about the how to's.

Cheers!
Yash
 
i didn't know all the things that were involved in saltwater i'd love the challenge but my only problem is the water ..there are no shops where i live who can help i buy everything off the internet so as for the water i'm not sure.

so tap water during water changes is a deff no no? if so i'll have to rethink
 
AquariaCentral.com