I apologize if this is the wrong place to post. I’m new to forums. I recently purchased a 36 gallon tank. At the time, I didn’t really didn’t understand cycling a tank. On April 14, I added, a little bit of fish food in it and ran the filter. On the 16th, I put in a goldfish and a molly. On the 18th, I added 8 neon tetras, a small angel fish and 5 guppies. On the 20th, I finally understood cycling and brought test strips. On the 20th, the readings were ammonia .5, nitrite 0, nitrate 20. On the 22nd, the readings were ammonia .5, nitrite 0, nitrate 20. On the 24th, the readings were ammonia .0, nitrite 0, nitrate 20. On the 26th, I thought perhaps test strips were not accurate and bought a API testing kit. The API readings were ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 20. I also did two 10-15% water changes since placing the fish in the tank. I am puzzled. Why didn’t I see get any nitrite readings. None of the fish have died. Is my tank already cycled? What do I need to do? Thanks in advance.
Is my tank cycled?
- Thread starter boblca
- Start date
The answer is no and there are a number of steps that should be taken. Before I advise you, keep in mind I don't know what type of filter or filter media, like carbon, you currently have in play.
First at some point the ammonia and nitrite are going to explode if you don't act. The good news is you sound like you want to do the right thing. First of all, at least as a temporary measure, I'd try to pick up a cheap air pump and a spnge filter rated for at least double the size of your tank. If that is not practical, then jump to step #2. Next, do a 25% water change and purchase some Stability by Sea Chem and follow the instructions. Over a 5-7 day period you should have a good start on the necessary bacteria. If practicle, also purchase some Prime, also by Sea Chem, and add a 10th dose after the water change. This will help stabilize the tank. Once you have used the Stability and finish you should be good to go. It will seed bacteria to what ever filter you're using. If you got a sponge filter as well, let it run for another 2-3 weeks or better yet leave it in the tank.
If you have not already get rid of the goldfish, it doesn't work with anything else you have. I would highly recommend not adding any additional fish for at least a month. The molly, guppys and neons are not the greatest combo, but should work for a while. Before purchasing any more fish decide what you really want, do your research and proceed with caution. The neons have totally different requirements than the livebearers.
Hope this helps. Also, get your supplies on line from Ken's, Pet Solutions or that Fish Place. Geat selection and fast service as a discount price.
First at some point the ammonia and nitrite are going to explode if you don't act. The good news is you sound like you want to do the right thing. First of all, at least as a temporary measure, I'd try to pick up a cheap air pump and a spnge filter rated for at least double the size of your tank. If that is not practical, then jump to step #2. Next, do a 25% water change and purchase some Stability by Sea Chem and follow the instructions. Over a 5-7 day period you should have a good start on the necessary bacteria. If practicle, also purchase some Prime, also by Sea Chem, and add a 10th dose after the water change. This will help stabilize the tank. Once you have used the Stability and finish you should be good to go. It will seed bacteria to what ever filter you're using. If you got a sponge filter as well, let it run for another 2-3 weeks or better yet leave it in the tank.
If you have not already get rid of the goldfish, it doesn't work with anything else you have. I would highly recommend not adding any additional fish for at least a month. The molly, guppys and neons are not the greatest combo, but should work for a while. Before purchasing any more fish decide what you really want, do your research and proceed with caution. The neons have totally different requirements than the livebearers.
Hope this helps. Also, get your supplies on line from Ken's, Pet Solutions or that Fish Place. Geat selection and fast service as a discount price.
Thank you. Your comments has got my head spinning, so many things to consider. On the 14th, I had a new aqua clear 50 filter in the tank. The filters in the aqua clear are a sponge, carbon and a biofilter. The tank has been running for about 2 weeks now. I'm surprised I didn't see an increase in ammonia or nitrite. I think you are saying that it happen. But, I will have to be patient. It's hard to get rid of the goldfish. It's the the reason I started a tank. My 5 year son won him a local charity event. We kept him in a bowl for a few weeks. Then got the tank.
The reason the goldfish doesn't work is because it is a cold water fish, while the others are tropicals. The goldfish won't require a heater, and will do best in temperatures too cold for your other fish. The warmer temperatures that tropicals require will make the goldfish more prone to disease. Plus goldfish are messy and create a lot of waste, so you will have to do frequent water changes and tank cleanings. Goldfish also grow quite large, will eat smaller fish, and are best suited for ponds.
Bob, unless you put used/seeded filtration media in this new tank, the time frames you describe don't seem to be enough for a full nitrogen cycle to take hold.
I'd question your test results. When using the API master test kit, you need to follow the nitrate test instructions to a "T". Shake the heck out of bottle #2 before using it, shake the completed test-tube for at least one minute and then let it sit for 5min before reading it. REAL common to not do the nitrate test correctly, which will give you goofy readings.
I'd question your test results. When using the API master test kit, you need to follow the nitrate test instructions to a "T". Shake the heck out of bottle #2 before using it, shake the completed test-tube for at least one minute and then let it sit for 5min before reading it. REAL common to not do the nitrate test correctly, which will give you goofy readings.
Thanks for all the advice. I measured it again today. .25 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 10-20 nitrate. No used bio, I start with a new water and filters. Now that the ammonia level is higher, should I do a water change or add stability chemical? Or should let the ammonia build up to develop good bacteria. I've also been using API tap water conditioner when adding water.
You should use a water conditioner on tap water - because most municipal water sources use chlorine or chloramine (a combination of chlorine and ammonia) to "purify" tap water. While this may be safe for human consumption, it's NOT good for aquatic life. Which water conditioner is the subject of many debates, but we all agree that you should use one.
I'm currently trying to cycle a 180g, and my ammonia is holding at around .25, zero nitrite, and 5-10 nitrate. I know my tank is nowhere near cycled, because I have not seen any nitrite and it's only been running a month. I suspect I'm only getting nitrate because I do have plants (hornwort sheds "stuff" like crazy) and there has been a certain amount of fish food that's gotten stirred up into the water column. I'm still waiting for that "off the charts" ammonia spike that signals the cycle is starting.
I'm currently trying to cycle a 180g, and my ammonia is holding at around .25, zero nitrite, and 5-10 nitrate. I know my tank is nowhere near cycled, because I have not seen any nitrite and it's only been running a month. I suspect I'm only getting nitrate because I do have plants (hornwort sheds "stuff" like crazy) and there has been a certain amount of fish food that's gotten stirred up into the water column. I'm still waiting for that "off the charts" ammonia spike that signals the cycle is starting.
Kannan, I thought an increase in ammonia was a direct result of the amount of fish waste. So there would no spike in ammonia. But a spike in nitrite would result because it shows good bacteria forming?
I didn't know cycling a tank would take so long. Do we need to test our water daily to watch for spikes?
I didn't know cycling a tank would take so long. Do we need to test our water daily to watch for spikes?
The average cycle takes many weeks, about 4-7 weeks depending on many factors. I would do daily checks, and WC till the cycle finishes. No need to measure Nitrates till your ammonia reads a daily test of zero.
My understanding on ammonia - from many, many, many discussions on this forum - is that fish secrete it as they breathe, in addition to their waste, uneaten food, and decaying matter in the tank. The bacteria that consume ammonia colonize once you see a significant amount of ammonia present in the tank. Once this bacteria forms and starts working, ammonia will drop and you will see a spike in nitrite - which is a by-product of the bacteria that consumes ammonia. Then the second stage of the bio process kicks in as the nitrite consuming bacteria colonize and nitrate is produced. Nitrate also comes from waste matter in the tank, so it may be present before the cycle completes.
I have a cycled 29g aquarium which I'm getting high nitrate readings from. Part of this is heavy stocking, but part of it was due to the fact that I had a LOT of decaying plant matter trapped in the pump housing of my filter. I cleaned my filter and had a significant drop in nitrate. This tank regularly tests zero ammonia and nitrite, but I can get a minimal ammonia reading after changing filter media. (Usually between zero and .25.)
I have a cycled 29g aquarium which I'm getting high nitrate readings from. Part of this is heavy stocking, but part of it was due to the fact that I had a LOT of decaying plant matter trapped in the pump housing of my filter. I cleaned my filter and had a significant drop in nitrate. This tank regularly tests zero ammonia and nitrite, but I can get a minimal ammonia reading after changing filter media. (Usually between zero and .25.)
