I know I have to do water changes until I get the ammonia to .25. I have water conditioner, but should I go ahead and get stresszyme? And should I buy a bottle of bacteria to help stabilze the tank. This is the 3rd week and I've been doing regular water changes, I guess not enough. Help please!!!
I've got a huge spike in Ammonia
- Thread starter amyandlars
- Start date
I'm a relative newbie to this stuff myself, I have had a good mentor though, a friend with 13 operational tanks ranging from 5 - 120 gallons.
Perhaps you could give some more info. Are you using gravel? Are you using live plants or fake? Are you using any water from an already cycled/established tank? Are you using filter media from an already cycled/established tank?
I believe the answers to these questions will get us on our way to helping you out.
Perhaps you could give some more info. Are you using gravel? Are you using live plants or fake? Are you using any water from an already cycled/established tank? Are you using filter media from an already cycled/established tank?
I believe the answers to these questions will get us on our way to helping you out.
Water from an established tank won't do much but gravel or filter media certainly will.
If you answer those questions and more (like how long has the tank been up and running and what is in the tank) that would be a real help.
But for now, water changes, as much as needs to be done. Stresszyme does nothing. The only bacteria in a bottle known to actually work long term is bio-spira. Anything else is a waste of money. If you can't get Bio-Spira then see if a friend can give you some used filter media (as mentioned above). That can really help.
If you answer those questions and more (like how long has the tank been up and running and what is in the tank) that would be a real help.
But for now, water changes, as much as needs to be done. Stresszyme does nothing. The only bacteria in a bottle known to actually work long term is bio-spira. Anything else is a waste of money. If you can't get Bio-Spira then see if a friend can give you some used filter media (as mentioned above). That can really help.
This tank has been set up for 3 weeks. We let it sit for 2 with conditioner in and filter running. This is a small 3 gal tank. Last week we put in 1 betta and 1 snail. I didn't do a gravel vacuum or anything but did 1 10% water change. This was the 1st ammonia test I did. When I tested the water I got a massive 4 ppm reading. So I tested another tank that was empty that we were just starting and got a 0 reading. I took a water sample to the pet store and they said the water was .5 ppm. They used a strip I used a liquid test. So far I've done a 30% water change and just finished a 50% water change. The ammonia tank has a sponge filter, and gravel. I've only put in regular chlorine remover as far as conditioners go. Nitrite is reading at .5ppm and Nitrates at 20.
Amy, it sounds like you're on the right track. Keeping ammonia at or below 0.25 ppm will keep conditions safe for your betta. If ammonia gets too high, their long fins are very susceptible to fin rot. There are other consequences to ammonia exposure, too of course, but the fins tearing are the most noticeable sign in bettas, I've found.
It's great that you're getting some nitrites, too, because that means the bacteria are establishing themselves. Just keep up with the partial water changes until both ammonia and nitrite subside. You should end up with only nitrates after the tank is fully cycled. Just so you know, I try to maintain nitrates below about 12.5 ppm. Others recommend 20 ppm, still others say 40 ppm is the max "safe" level. But I personally think the less nitrates, the better, because that means your water is cleaner.
good luck! Please let us know if you need anything else
It's great that you're getting some nitrites, too, because that means the bacteria are establishing themselves. Just keep up with the partial water changes until both ammonia and nitrite subside. You should end up with only nitrates after the tank is fully cycled. Just so you know, I try to maintain nitrates below about 12.5 ppm. Others recommend 20 ppm, still others say 40 ppm is the max "safe" level. But I personally think the less nitrates, the better, because that means your water is cleaner.
good luck! Please let us know if you need anything else
I'm on my 3rd water change, all with gravel vacuum and I still come up with 1.0 ppm. Yesterday I added something to detoxify the ammonia, but didn't add it this morning. I'll plan on doing another water change this afternoon, then add if need be. Kinda unsure what to add, since everything the petstore sold someone here said don't add it, or it was a waste of money.
BTW, don't know if I stated this earlier, but I tested my tap and the ammonia reading is 0, and I have a newly started 10gal that was at 0. That one is at .25 ammonia now, but I already have nitrates since I used filter washings for 2 days before adding fish. I wish I had tested the Betta tank first b/c I would have moved the Betta to that tank while I'm getting the ammonia out and not stocked that tank. I tried yesterday while trying to acclimate the Betta, he freaked when the fish swam by, so that ruled that out.
BTW, don't know if I stated this earlier, but I tested my tap and the ammonia reading is 0, and I have a newly started 10gal that was at 0. That one is at .25 ammonia now, but I already have nitrates since I used filter washings for 2 days before adding fish. I wish I had tested the Betta tank first b/c I would have moved the Betta to that tank while I'm getting the ammonia out and not stocked that tank. I tried yesterday while trying to acclimate the Betta, he freaked when the fish swam by, so that ruled that out.
yeah, StressZyme and almost every other bacterial additive contains the wrong kind of bacteria. They might initially eat some ammonia, but will die soon after and even contribute to ammonia in that way. The only bacteria you can buy that I know to be the right species is BioSpira. It's pricey, though, at $15-20 for one ounce, or enough to treat 15 to 30 gallons. Also, it must be refridgerated during storage, otherwise the bacteria will eat up all their food reserves and die in the package. That's another reason why bacteria in a bottle don't work. They have no food supply and are sitting on a warm shelf, with their metabolisms going full speed.
Keep in mind, also, that the nitrifying bacteria (the ones that eat ammonia and nitrite) in your filter and tank cannot survive without a food source. So without fish or adding ammonia from a bottle, they will starve. So maybe using filter squeezings days before you added the betta did not do much.
The tap water conditioners that detoxify ammonia do so by changing toxic ammonia (NH3) into the less toxic ammonium ion (NH4+). The two forms exist in equilibrium in a tank (i.e. both are present in different proportions, depending on pH and temp). Most ammonia tests cannot distinguish between the two, and read only total ammonia concentration. The only test I know of that reads only toxic ammonia is Seachem. Salicylate reagant ammonia tests are the ones that only pick up NH3, but Seachem is the only brand I know of (so far) that uses these.
I have heard people say that two-reagant (two different drops that you need to add to the water being tested) tests are salicylate. But I have several ammonia tests with two, even three reagant bottles and all say they read total ammonia. The ones I've used are Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Red Sea, and Wardley.
Sorry, I know it's a lot of information. Anyway, I'd say ditch the StressZyme, keep using the water conditioners that detoxify ammonia, and possibly get some BioSpira if you think it's worth the investment. Also keep up with water changes. You don't need to gravel vacuum every time, especially if you'll be changing water every day or so. Sucking water off the top is quicker and less stressful on the fish. Just make sure to vacuum the substrate at least once a week, to prevent the waste particles from rotting and producing even more ammonia.
I hope that helps instead of confusing you!
Keep in mind, also, that the nitrifying bacteria (the ones that eat ammonia and nitrite) in your filter and tank cannot survive without a food source. So without fish or adding ammonia from a bottle, they will starve. So maybe using filter squeezings days before you added the betta did not do much.
The tap water conditioners that detoxify ammonia do so by changing toxic ammonia (NH3) into the less toxic ammonium ion (NH4+). The two forms exist in equilibrium in a tank (i.e. both are present in different proportions, depending on pH and temp). Most ammonia tests cannot distinguish between the two, and read only total ammonia concentration. The only test I know of that reads only toxic ammonia is Seachem. Salicylate reagant ammonia tests are the ones that only pick up NH3, but Seachem is the only brand I know of (so far) that uses these.
I have heard people say that two-reagant (two different drops that you need to add to the water being tested) tests are salicylate. But I have several ammonia tests with two, even three reagant bottles and all say they read total ammonia. The ones I've used are Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Red Sea, and Wardley.
Sorry, I know it's a lot of information. Anyway, I'd say ditch the StressZyme, keep using the water conditioners that detoxify ammonia, and possibly get some BioSpira if you think it's worth the investment. Also keep up with water changes. You don't need to gravel vacuum every time, especially if you'll be changing water every day or so. Sucking water off the top is quicker and less stressful on the fish. Just make sure to vacuum the substrate at least once a week, to prevent the waste particles from rotting and producing even more ammonia.
I hope that helps instead of confusing you!
No I understood everything, and good point about filter squeezings do no good with out ammonia.
Currently I have 3 tanks in a cycle.
1- 10gal with 1 goldfish, 2 snails it's on day 4. That's the tank I used filter squeezings for. I was trying to do a fishless cycle, but the tank that held the fish and snail was just on overload, so I moved them on day 2. Currently it's at .25 ammonia (API chem test kit), and 1.o ppm NO2 and 20ppmNO3. The nitrates got tested on API strips so not sure how accurate that reading is. The NO2 is climbing some and the NO3 is hanging steady. Going to do a 10% change tomorrow. If I've learned correctly this is all good and supposed to be happening in the cycle so just keep testing and normal w/c's. Today I stuck a huge mineral block in it b/c I got tiried of the ph reading of 6.0.
1- 2.5 gal empty tank thinking about putting a bunch of gravel in it, and letting it do a fishless cycle, to help with a new 10 gal tank that we will be getting in about a month or 2.
1 2.5 gal tank that holds the Betta. I'm on my 5th water change in 3 days and ammonia is still at 1.0 I'm using Ammo-Lock. I know even with the non-toxic NH i'm going to get positive readings. So do I continue with 2x times/day changing or start 1x/day.?
Sorry that was so long, but hopefully this gave a clear picture of everything.
Currently I have 3 tanks in a cycle.
1- 10gal with 1 goldfish, 2 snails it's on day 4. That's the tank I used filter squeezings for. I was trying to do a fishless cycle, but the tank that held the fish and snail was just on overload, so I moved them on day 2. Currently it's at .25 ammonia (API chem test kit), and 1.o ppm NO2 and 20ppmNO3. The nitrates got tested on API strips so not sure how accurate that reading is. The NO2 is climbing some and the NO3 is hanging steady. Going to do a 10% change tomorrow. If I've learned correctly this is all good and supposed to be happening in the cycle so just keep testing and normal w/c's. Today I stuck a huge mineral block in it b/c I got tiried of the ph reading of 6.0.
1- 2.5 gal empty tank thinking about putting a bunch of gravel in it, and letting it do a fishless cycle, to help with a new 10 gal tank that we will be getting in about a month or 2.
1 2.5 gal tank that holds the Betta. I'm on my 5th water change in 3 days and ammonia is still at 1.0 I'm using Ammo-Lock. I know even with the non-toxic NH i'm going to get positive readings. So do I continue with 2x times/day changing or start 1x/day.?
Sorry that was so long, but hopefully this gave a clear picture of everything.