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Jumping Back Into the Forum with a DIY!!!

Discussion in 'Freshwater Equipment, Products, & DIY' started by spudjnr123, Apr 14, 2017.

  1. spudjnr123

    spudjnr123 AC Members

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    WOOT! It has been years since I've been on these forums, but I'm interested in gathering some thoughts and opinions from better people than me!

    For those of you that don't know me, just FYI I'm not a beginner, but I'm also not an expert. That being said, I like to try new things that are a bit wacky.

    My newest idea is based on those infinity pools that swimmers train in. I wanted to create a tank that follows the basic concept where water is moved from one end of the tank continues to the far end of the tank where it gets returned to the far end using pipes instead of flow. The flow does not NEED to reach the far end, it could dissipate, allowing fish a "recovery" zone, but I was hoping to get it flowing pretty good for some fish that love fast moving water. Natural refugia would then be included to provide breaks from the current.

    I created a design using PVC and a MAXIJET 900. Hopefully you can understand the built in filtration system and piping.

    One thing I was considering doing was having the pvc along the bottom perforated to act like an undergravel filtration system. Not sure it'll work, but worth a shot. If I perforate the tubes, I'd simply cap them at the end.

    [​IMG]

    If they are not perforated, as designed, they will be left open with a screen to prevent intruders.

    Is this the best way to achieve the effect I want? Better methods?
     
  2. Rbishop

    Rbishop ...and over the edge.
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    Perforating the tubes would not be that effective as a UGF in my opinion. You can create dead zones/low flow with decor such as rocks and wood.
     
  3. spudjnr123

    spudjnr123 AC Members

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    That was my plan Rbishop, that's what I was calling natural refugia. I agree regarding the UGF. Perhaps a complete UGF could be built in as well! I'm working on a new design utilizing the back wall which I think I like a lot!
     
  4. spudjnr123

    spudjnr123 AC Members

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    I've played with a new design, this is in a 38 Gallon tank I actually have, vs. the 20L which I'd have to buy.

    Pros are more room, but cons are that it's deep which ill require at least two pumps to operate. Though, that could be a good thing.

    I'm using spray bars to direct the flow, and these will probably be outfitted with an air pump to oxygenate the outflow. I'm a bit concerned about the amount of flow coming out of the spray bars, but I think that using wide enough bores they should do decently.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. fishorama

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  6. spudjnr123

    spudjnr123 AC Members

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    So, the original design is based off Martin's. I was hoping to do Hillstream Loaches and a largish school of white clouds, so I'd actually like it to have some pretty intense flow. If I go with the original design, I might even add a second pump just to get enough force.

    In the second design I was worried that with holes too small on the spray bar, not enough water would get pushed through and the pump might suffer, or the water in the tank wouldn't flow, since tiny streams won't have a lot of surface area. I'm sure there's a curve where wholes are too small and produce no flow, rising up to some max flow rate as holes increase before eventually the holes are too big, and flow is virtually non existant. It may require some experiments.
     
  7. fishorama

    fishorama AC Members

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    Well, I have hillstream loaches but no "manifold" set up, so take that with a grain or so of salt, lol.

    My sewellia, gastromyzon, Vietnamese white clouds & leopard danios are quite happy with less flow in areas. I have a 55g "river-ish" tank, 2 AC 70 HOBs & a maxijet powerhead (1200/hour) along the tank back. OK, that's just me & my fish & lots of plants...but you might not need as much as you might think. My sewllias & danios spawn all the time. I have had sewellia fry 3+? times with a few survivors; the danios are newish. I have 2 stiphodon gobies too.

    What species are you hoping to keep? You "maybe" can back off some of the "ideal" flow, depending...My fish are the "easy" 1's but I like your thinking...
     
  8. spudjnr123

    spudjnr123 AC Members

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    I was hoping for a nice group of sewellia and some white clouds. Nothing fancy! No plants at all, just lots of light and current! As a salmon biologist I'm intrigued by rheophilic species. My first idea was to set up a high current amazonian tank that went away quickly when I saw sewellia at my lfs. I knew I wanted to have a tank of them. So that has been my goal now! But the ultimate goal is still to create a super high current, cool, and super oxygenated flow!
     
  9. fishorama

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    Go, Taylor, go! Sewllia are so cute & easy! But since I belong to a plant club, there always needs to be some plants too (SFBAAPS, you're not too far). I look forward to seeing what you do...as opposed to what I have, there's ways & other ways of doing things! There is no "right" way.

    We might like to hear more of your salmon work...everyone likes to learn...or at least I do!
     
  10. spudjnr123

    spudjnr123 AC Members

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    Hey all! I'm back and reviving this thread because.....I upgraded my tank and have started the DIY!!!

    So for those of you just joining, I've wanted to create a river tank for rheophilic species which require heavy oxygenation, cool(ish) water, and most importantly FLOW! So after much time, and saving some money I've begun my build in my new 75(ish) (closer to 78)! Pics below!! I would love some input! Here's what's going on:

    7 210 GPH pumps are placed under a "waterfall" area they pump water into the small chamber behind the waterfall which then is directed out through small slits in the manifold in a generally "down and out" flow to simulate the scour pool of a waterfall. The spray bar from a canister filter will be attached at the top of the waterfall aimed down to create a "waterfall" effect and aid in pushing the current down along the bottom. water moves across the tank to an intake structure (I have no plan yet for how to make this look...ideas?). Water then is pulled underneath a supported light louver, providing high UG current cleaning out waste and resuspending in the water column to be taken up by the filter. Obviously the idea is to make this as realistic as possible, within limitation, made to mimic fast flowing headwaters and hillstreams. rIVER tANK.JPG 20180725_072448.jpg 20180725_074830.jpg 20180725_082134.jpg 20180725_082137.jpg 20180725_083250.jpg 20180725_083332.jpg 20180725_092158.jpg

    rIVER tANK.JPG
     

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