Lights are Heating tank too much

justintoxicated

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Dec 19, 2005
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So I was having a heating issue with my 10 gallon and moved it up to a 20, but the problem still exists.

My lights heat my tank to about 81 deg every day, so I set my heater (50 watt theo) to 80 deg.

However I would really prefer the temp of my tank to be closer to 76 deg, I think 81 is a bit much for guppies. Is there anything I can do>

The main light is a Coralife and the secondary is whatever came with the plastic hood from the 10 gallon. I believe it is 28 watts for the coralife (uses PC) and probably 10 or 15 watts (I don't know) for the regular flourescent.

Any easy solutions? I don't want to buy a chiller for a 20 gallon! hell I just bought a 100 watt heater for it to replace my 50 lol..
 
I take it these lights are incandescent? (little wire heats up and glows inside a glass tube) There is the problem. You will need to A. Switch to a cooler style light (compact flourescent) B. Lower your wattage. C. Dont run your lights as long. D. Install cooling fans in your canopy/strips, so as to blow the heat away from the water's surface.

Any combination of the above should solve or help your problem. Take care.
 
justintoxicated said:
I believe it is 28 watts for the coralife (uses PC) and probably 10 or 15 watts (I don't know) for the regular flourescent.

How well are these ventilated? Enclosed canopy or open strip?

I'd try better ventilation in the canopy or even a small fan. I also wouldn't keep the heater cranking the temps up to max. You can't keep it cool if you won't let it cool. I don't think gradual fluctuations are a problem: fish in the wild do not live at a constant temperature.
 
Well the whole reason I read I need a heater is to keep temp constant.

Without a heater the tank never drops below 75...

Oh man Now I will have 2 heaters (100 watt and 50 watt) that I can't een use?

One light is open and is a regular flourescent. the other is a coralife unit 28 watt Power Compact. (not incan)...

The coralife has an aluminum top and protective piece of glass over the bulb. There is also a nice reflector piece so even if I drilled into the aluminum cover the reflector looks like it would trap the heat in....

I don't want to lower my WPG I want to raise it if anything! as of now I have ALMOST 2WPG. And I am injecting Co2 (DIY).

I don't understand how people are running over 2WPG without having heating issues.

Here is what i got, it cost me like $45! http://www.marineandreef.com/products/aqualight_53000.jpg
 
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Can you raise them a bit more above the tank to allow more heat to escape?

I'm assuming the tank isn't covered (between the lights and water)?
 
ghinksmon said:
Can you raise them a bit more above the tank to allow more heat to escape?

I'm assuming the tank isn't covered (between the lights and water)?

The tank is covered with a glass lid, the light rests on the lid. So I'm not sure how I would go about doing this.

How is everyone else keeping their tanks from overheating?
 
I have about 3.4 wpg in a canopy with good ventilation, some space between the lamp and the glass… you need some air circulating around that thing.

I'd take a look at the adjustable legs for Coralife fixtures (from that same site). I'd definitely go the extra $5 on the adjustable version.

:dive2:
 
justintoxicated said:
The tank is covered with a glass lid, the light rests on the lid. So I'm not sure how I would go about doing this.

How is everyone else keeping their tanks from overheating?

When I was using Shoplights, I bought a tile from HomeDepot ($2) and had them sut it in strips to fit the rim of the tank. The lights rested on the tile, abot 3/4" above the glass getting them ample circulation.

I am not saying that you get a piece of tile as well....just giving you an idea.
 
justintoxicated said:
The tank is covered with a glass lid, the light rests on the lid. So I'm not sure how I would go about doing this.

How is everyone else keeping their tanks from overheating?

It sounds like there isn't much atmospheric exchange between the water surface and the outside air.

Try to raise the light a bit off the glass, using spacers or whatever is handy and not too incredibly ugly. That will prevent the glass itself from heating up quite as much and conducting that heat into the aquarium.

After you do that, make sure there is a bit of venilation through the top glass. I understand that you want to prevent fish jumps and excessive evaporation, but you have to understand that 81 degree water will evaporate much faster than 76 degree water anyway.

I would suggest raising one edge of the glass slightly or drill some holes in it if feasible.

This should help keep the tank cooler during lighted times, and as previously suggested, allow it to cool to 75 or so at night. Only run the heater if it gets below that. If your heater is set at 80, then the lights only have to heat the water 1 degree to get it to 81.

If the tank will cool to 75, then the same heating won't get tank too hot...
 
**** I dunno about tiles and all that, Not that much space on top especialy since i have 2 fixtures just to get 1.9 wpg :(

Not sure of anyways to modify the top of the unit, can't really just drill a hole into glass! The whole lid is glass! so theres not really anything I can do with it I suppose, there is a 1 inch plastic stip in the rear I cut a couple slots in for cables. I can remove it but my fish and especialy my mystery snails will likely escape then.

This is much harder than I thought it was going to be....I'm thinking I can maybe drill some holes into the sides of the fixture, Hopefully without hitting the ballast ends.

I will look into the stand but I doubt it will help much, since it's still basical going to be heating the glass under it.

When I had the heater turned down to 75, the temps still rise to 81 durring the day! it just fluctuates alot more.
 
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