you may find that your ammonia starts to go up as it looks, in my opinion, that the live rock will need curing and so you may start to experience another cycle..Is there any live stock in the tank?
Niko
Niko
live rock going white
- Thread starter slagger1
- Start date
to be honest, i would imagine you ARE gonna get a new cycle, which could last up to a good few weeks..The rock i would suggest is not fully cured, hence the white which is classed as die off..what you could do is take the rock out and scrub it, in some RO or salt water, with a hard nylon based brush, like a nail brush..nothing metal though and the get it back in the tank and wait the cycle out...
Niko
Niko
anytime mate, thats what i am here for...post some more pics when its been scrubbed so i can see a comparison....
I know that corroline algae is an absolute raver by marine keepers, but, dont worry, with good lighting and water parameters, it will grow back a nice colour...
Niko
I know that corroline algae is an absolute raver by marine keepers, but, dont worry, with good lighting and water parameters, it will grow back a nice colour...
Niko
OK guys let me explain a few things about corallines from 25 years experience.
Here are your water params that you posted...
amonia = 0.1
nitrate = 10
nitrite = 0.1
phosphate = 0.25
calcium = 420mg
PH = 8.1
1. Ammonia is present because the live rock is cycling/curing. This has no real effect on things at this level. The ppm would need to be higher to be a threat.
To answer your question about lowering the level, you can add several air stones to the tank to aerate the ammonia level down. This is called ammonia stripping. It works well when cycling LR in tanks without other livestock. Just keep an eye on evaporation levels and salt creep by adjusting/cleaning each day.
2. The same above stands for the nitrite level.
3. The nitrate level indicates that the necessary bacteria have formed to breakdown nitrogenous waste. It will continue to rise until the cycle is complete. Water changes will keep it at acceptable levels.
4. Calcium and pH are fine. An alkalinity test is still required. Try for a meq/l reading.
5. The phosphate level is high. Anything above 0.1 retards coralline algae growth. The acceptable level is below .02ppm on a quality test kit. Because many test kits use varying shades of green for the test results it is best to strive for a zero reading thru the use of iron oxide resins. I recommend you use a product like Pholock/Pura-lok as soon as possible.
The addition of Kalkwasser to your make up water will help precipitate phosphates and increase coralline growth. Please keep an eye on alkalinity when using kalkwasser products.
There are no visible signs of coralline disease on your rock, which is indicative of a yellow/orange band 1/4" thick destroying the corallines. Your photos indicate the classic fade/bleaching of corallines that are usually associated with higher phosphate levels.
I hope this helps you understand why the corallines are bleaching. If you need pics of rocks before and after phosphate removal I may have them in my pics somewhere. I have several dozen albums so it will take awhile top find them.
Here are your water params that you posted...
amonia = 0.1
nitrate = 10
nitrite = 0.1
phosphate = 0.25
calcium = 420mg
PH = 8.1
1. Ammonia is present because the live rock is cycling/curing. This has no real effect on things at this level. The ppm would need to be higher to be a threat.
To answer your question about lowering the level, you can add several air stones to the tank to aerate the ammonia level down. This is called ammonia stripping. It works well when cycling LR in tanks without other livestock. Just keep an eye on evaporation levels and salt creep by adjusting/cleaning each day.
2. The same above stands for the nitrite level.
3. The nitrate level indicates that the necessary bacteria have formed to breakdown nitrogenous waste. It will continue to rise until the cycle is complete. Water changes will keep it at acceptable levels.
4. Calcium and pH are fine. An alkalinity test is still required. Try for a meq/l reading.
5. The phosphate level is high. Anything above 0.1 retards coralline algae growth. The acceptable level is below .02ppm on a quality test kit. Because many test kits use varying shades of green for the test results it is best to strive for a zero reading thru the use of iron oxide resins. I recommend you use a product like Pholock/Pura-lok as soon as possible.
The addition of Kalkwasser to your make up water will help precipitate phosphates and increase coralline growth. Please keep an eye on alkalinity when using kalkwasser products.
There are no visible signs of coralline disease on your rock, which is indicative of a yellow/orange band 1/4" thick destroying the corallines. Your photos indicate the classic fade/bleaching of corallines that are usually associated with higher phosphate levels.
I hope this helps you understand why the corallines are bleaching. If you need pics of rocks before and after phosphate removal I may have them in my pics somewhere. I have several dozen albums so it will take awhile top find them.
